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Chatham’s Charms

Nestled at the elbow of Cape Cod, the breezy beach town of Chatham muscles its way into the summer spotlight. By Lindsay Lambert

Baseball and apple pie notwithstanding, it’s tough to name anything that’s more classically American than summers on the Cape. From Bourne and Falmouth all the way up to P-Town, Cape Cod is a treasure trove of picture-perfect beaches, romantic B&Bs, and one-of-a-kind restaurants, bars, and shops. Along Route 28 at the Cape’s apex, or elbow, lies Chatham, a destination in and of itself.

Stay The Wequassett Resort and Golf Club is arguably Chatham’s best-kept secret. The AAA Four Diamond resort occupies 27 acres along Pleasant Bay and offers guests a choice of 120 rooms and suites. A single waterfront Round Cove Suite is the top slot, but Signature Water View rooms are a close second in terms of bay views and amenities. All told, more than a dozen room and suite types offer everything from extensive space and front-row water views to cozier cottage-style living with garden backdrops. Wequassett guests also enjoy two impeccable pools, two beaches, a meticulous tennis center, an 18-hole golf course, a kids’ center (complete with a pirate ship), boating and water sports, and four restaurants. Route 28, Pleasant Bay, 508-430-3000, wequassett.com.

Eat Main Street in Chatham is lined with rustic restaurants, pubs, and cafés. Slightly off the main thoroughfare, the Impudent Oyster is still heavily trafficked yet manages to avoid feeling too touristy. The low-key eatery offers a surf-and-turf menu and lighter items like salads and soups. 15 Chatham Bars Avenue, 508-945-3545. If you’re looking to sate a sweet tooth, head to the Chatham Candy Manor. The old-fashioned sweets shop is jam packed with confections, but its many flavors of homemade fudge steal the show. 484 Main Street, 508-945-0825, candymanor.com. The pièce de résistance of our Chatham culinary experience was at the Wequassett’s own twenty-eight Atlantic. The elegant restaurant’s waterfront setting is outdone only by chef Bill Brodsky’s menu. Our feast commenced with a trio of tartare (spicy yellow fin tuna, gingered hamachi, and truffled salmon) and was followed by an entrée of caramelized day boat scallops and mushroom ravioli with truffle cream sauce. A testament to Brodsky’s elegant, understated taste, the most unforgettable dish of our meal was, surprisingly, a simple side of buttery pumpkin polenta topped with dried cranberries and toasted almonds. If you’re celebrating a special occasion, ask for some bubbly and a table by the large picture windows. Route 28, Pleasant Bay, 508-430-3000, wequassett.com (online reservations are available).

See In July and August, the Wequassett hosts the annual Cape Cod Summer Jazz Festival, which features live entertainment. Route 28, Pleasant Bay, 508-430-3000, wequassett.com/jazz. Summertime is practically synonymous with baseball, and a visit to Chatham wouldn’t be complete without taking in a Chatham A’s home game at Veterans Field. Route 28, chathamas.com. Of course, Cape Cod is replete with gorgeous beaches, and Chatham is no exception. Pack an umbrella and some bocce balls and head to Chatham Lighthouse Beach. Occasionally, the functioning Chatham Light lighthouse is open to public for tours (free of charge). Otherwise, opt for a nature walk out to southern Monomoy Island, or just sit back and relax.

Melrose

Melrose, the original streetcar suburb, is a haven for residents and visitors alike. By Regina Cole

Seven miles north of Boston and only 15 minutes from North Station, Melrose offers a variety of urban resources, but it is clearly a deeply rooted, close-knit community. Small by almost any standard, the city of 28,000 occupying 4.76 square miles has a lot of civic resources in five grade schools and 15 churches. More than a few residents grew up here, moved away, and eventually returned to put down roots. One such resident says, “As a teenager, I couldn’t wait to leave. Now that I’m back, I can’t believe how much this town has to offer.”

Melrose was a rural part of Charlestown and Malden until 1845, when the Boston and Maine Railroad built three train stations here. Incorporated five years later, Melrose was one of the original “streetcar suburbs” established when new rail lines enabled the middle class to return home to a leafy neighborhood after a day’s work in the sooty metropolis. The new city of Melrose, named after a Scottish burgh, became a favorite home for railroad executives.

Today, it is still the city with lots of train transportation. Situated in a triangle formed by Routes 1, 128, and 93, Melrose is among the more accessible towns on the North Shore. But easy to reach does not mean frequently visited: Melrose is not on the way to anywhere, and no major highways pass through. To see Melrose, you have to go there. These days, there are more and more reasons to do just that.

One is a newly revitalized commercial Main Street featuring handsome late-19th-century mercantile buildings. “When I grew up here, we had an ice cream parlor on Main Street; that was it,” says Mayor Rob Dolan. Today’s shopping district boasts both simple and elegant eateries, chic boutiques, luxurious spas, and sophisticated art galleries, all in handsome Victorian structures. “Our Main Street escaped the ravages of 1960s urban renewal,” Dolan says. In 1982, all of downtown Melrose attained listings on the National Register of Historic Places.

The community also houses a grand collection of Victorian homes, which the Chamber of Commerce celebrates during the annual Victorian Fair. Usually on the third Sunday in September (this year’s is scheduled for September 11), the festival features an “artisan’s alley” on a section of Main Street closed to vehicular traffic.

Melrose finds plenty of reasons to turn that downtown stretch of pavement into a pedestrian-friendly fairground: December brings “Home for the Holidays,” a community-wide holiday celebration; May welcomes merchants who support the local PTOs during a street festival called “Melrose Gives Back,” and Halloween on Main Street is an annual tradition.

For all its urban charm, Melrose is surrounded by a network of long-established green space, thanks to Frederick Law Olmstead’s brilliant plan for Boston’s Emerald necklace and a forward-looking Melrose city government that resisted periodic temptation to develop its own open land. The city boasts steep hills with to-die-for views of Boston, the ocean, and Mount Wachusett. There are almost endless opportunities for hiking and cross-country skiing at Mount Hood and the eastern reaches of the Middlesex Fells Reservation. The city boasts a history as an Olympic training site, an early golf community, and two public 19-hole golf courses.

Centrally located Ell Pond, a kettle pond formed as the result of a passing ice age, is actually shaped like an L, and its inner corner is occupied by a city park. Here, on the first warm day of spring, Melrosians escape their classrooms, shops, and offices to kick off their shoes and relax. In many ways, this is the spirit of the place: a small city with the personality of a small town.

The Details

Date of Settlement: 1633
Date of Incorporation: 1850
Zip Codes: 02176, 02177
Population: 28,150
Total area: 4.8 square miles
Median household income: $62,811
Schools: 5 elementary schools, 1 middle school, and 1 high school; 1 private elementary school
Notable residents: Bill Rodgers, runner; Brooks Atkinson, journalist and author; Geraldine Farrar, Metropolitan Opera soprano and silent-film star; Frank Stella, contemporary painter, sculptor; David Souter, Associate Justice of the United States Supreme Court

All Aboard

Ample railway options keep Melrosians well connected.

Nineteenth-century americans did not travel far when they went on seasonal trips to the country; Beacon Hill Brahmins built farmhouses in Brookline, while Lynn industrialists went to Nahant for the summer. Boston railroad barons built their summer homes in Melrose, attracted by the lakes and hills, golfing and fishing, and the rail line. It was the best of both worlds—fresh air and country living within close range of the city.

These wealthy Victorians left grand Queen Anne and Colonial Revival houses in what are still some of Melrose’s nicest neighborhoods, particularly off Upham Street, on the east side. The other legacy these early residents left behind benefits an army of commuters: Melrose has more train stations than most communities under 30,000 residents.

The three train stops built during the 19th century are still very much in operation as the commuter rail stations at Wyoming Hill, Melrose/Cedar Park, and Melrose Highlands. Trains head northwest to Lowell and northeast to Rockport: much of the North Shore is accessible from here via public transportation. Plus, the Orange Line terminus at Oak Grove, on the Malden-Melrose town line, provides access to all of Boston, making Melrose a veritable mini-Hub on the North Shore.

On The Town
Some of Melrose’s best spots for eating, shopping, art viewing, and luxuriating.

Melrose Symphony Orchestra
The oldest continuing volunteer orchestra in the country celebrates its 93rd season this year. 590 Main Street, 781-662-0641, melrosesymphony.org.

Beebe Estate
Near downtown, this 1828 Greek Revival mansion is open to the public. Tour the period rooms, the beautiful garden, or one of the constantly changing art exhibits. The house is available for event rentals. 235 West Foster Street, 781-665-992, beebeestate.org.

Beacon Hill Wine
For many years, Melrose was a “dry” town. That, thankfully, has changed, and this shop on Main Street is a treasure trove for hard-to-find spirits, as well as wine, cheese, and gifts. 538 Main Street, 781-665-3332, beaconhillwine.com.

The Beauty Café
The Beauty Café sells Stila, Smashbox, Paula Dorf, Bare Escentuals, Mario Badescu, and many more exclusive brands of makeup and skin care products. Add meticulous spa services (signature treatment: the 75-minute oxygen facial), and this jewel box of a shop approaches heaven for beautynistas. 515 Main Street, 781-665-6650, thebeautycafe.nu.

Turner’s Seafood Grill & Market
When it comes to fish, freshness is all you need. Add several generations in the business of selling and serving fish in Boston and here, on Melrose’s Main Street, you have a premier seafood restaurant. Enjoy the wine and beer bar and the oyster bar and try the finnan haddie if you need North Shore comfort food. Or, you can come and camp out during Lobster Fest. 506 Main Street, 781-662-0700, turners-seafood.com.

Stearns & Hill’s Bistro
Special event? Hot date? Carnivorous splurge? This is your place: brick walls, mahogany moldings, comfortable leather seating, and a chic tin ceiling. Indulge. 505 Main Street, 781-662-9111, stearnsandhillsbistro.com.

Busy Bee Bakery
This charming café offers chicken pot pie, quiche, and other savory things in addition to baked goodies. From breakfast sandwiches to panini, this place is abuzz. The cupcakes alone are worth the visit. 1 Hurd Street, 781-665-3373, busybeebakery.net.

Stitch
Do you dream about a chic boutique where the clothes are beautiful and the service is personal? This is where to find your next party frock, or a flattering pair of pants. Or a shirt, or scarf, or…  523 Main Street, 781-665-5100.

Hourglass Gift Gallery
With a highly selective collection of fine art and home furnishings, this gallery lives out the philosophy of filling your home with things you know to be useful and believe to be beautiful. 458 Main Street, 781-662-1229, hourglassgiftgallery.com.

Marblehead

Marblehead is rich with history and so much more. By, Meryl D. Pearlstein

Part commuter town, part historical masterpiece, Marblehead occupies an envious position, overlooking one of the most picturesque sailing harbors in New England. Tiny and tony, Marblehead fills a hilly peninsula 17 miles up the coast from Boston, a site fishermen sparked to when they set up rough-and-tumble headquarters starting in the 1600s.

With a collection of nearly 300 preserved Colonial homes—fishermen’s cottages, captains’ residences and merchants’ mansions that wind up and down hills in varying shades of paint trim—Old Marblehead (to distinguish it from the newer, less-distinctive part of town) stands out for history buffs as the perfect immersion into New England’s pre-Revolutionary past. Many of the oldest homes, dating back to the town’s 1629 start, have windows hung so low that you’d swear the term “Peeping Tom” was invented here. Instead, this is a town of jovial and serious sailors, a town where it seems everyone who has a sea-facing historical home also has at least three pairs of boating shoes and is a member of one of the town’s six yacht clubs.

Dubbed “The Yachting Capital of the World” as well as the “Birthplace of the American Navy” under Colonel John Glover and General George Washington, Marblehead has always been a magnet for ocean lovers and beachgoers. Today, more of a resort destination than a working fishing village, Marblehead beckons with chilly waters that sparkle during the town’s century-old mid-summer Race Week, with its historic and modern sailboats also enjoyed by landlubbers from high perches in Chandler Hovey Park, Fort Sewall, and Crocker Park. Come winter, the town becomes a New England postcard, with a month-long Christmas celebration that entices both residents and visitors.

In any season, Marblehead is a town for exploring. Head straight to Old Marblehead, park your car wherever you can (it’s not easy), and wander along the narrow, twisting streets and public “ways of passage,” admiring the gorgeous architecture and breathing in Marblehead’s glorious sea air. Read the historic plaques on the many homes from the 1600s, 1700s, and 1800s, and stop to visit the 1768 Jeremiah Lee House, a majestic Georgian residence that epitomizes Marblehead’s success in pre-Revolutionary commerce. Refuel with a bowl of chowder or some fried clams at Maddie’s Sail Loft, the sailor’s favorite, and imagine yourself getting ready to face the Red Coats or a long day at sea.

Marblehead’s active involvement in the American Revolution, and later in the War of 1812 and the Civil War, adds to the town’s historic importance and intrigue. Quaint, cultured, and proud, Old Marblehead hasn’t changed much in 400 years; residents today are as much in love with its beautiful coastline, sailboat-dotted harbor, quirky streets, and ocean charms as were its earliest settlers.

Winter Wonderland Marblehead is a hotbed of holiday activity—first and foremost of which is its annual Christmas Walk.

Salem might get dibs on Halloween, but Marblehead is all about Christmas. Tens of thousands of people flock to the town to share in the magic of Marblehead’s winter arts festival and Christmas events. Kicked off by a holiday shopping preview party to motivate residents to stay local for shopping, the Marblehead Christmas Walk event is officially christened on Friday night by the tree lighting and caroling at Abbot Hall. The next morning, Santa and Mrs. Claus arrive at State Street Landing in a lobster boat painted red (of course).

The festivity really starts “moving” with the high-spirited parade of costumed kids and residents later that afternoon. Accompanied by musicians, many making a special pilgrimage to Marblehead to participate in this event each year, the parade meanders from the landing to Washington Street and Atlantic Avenue.
This year’s 40th annual Christmas Walk is scheduled December 2-5 with events extending onto the two following Saturdays as well. An Artisans’ Holiday Marketplace, hayrides, and refreshments are highlights. There’s no need to do your Christmas shopping at the mall if you’re visiting Marblehead; the often nautically themed arts and crafts here are much more distinctive, and the hospitality, smiles, cookies, and warm drinks offered by residents are personal “gifts” that are hard to resist.

If the weather turns mild rather than wintry, you might even see people heading to the Causeway to watch the waves at Devereux Beach and collect seashells instead of count snowflakes. Thinking about catching the Marblehead holiday spirit? Book an inn or B&B well in advance so you won’t be disappointed.

What To Do
Hot spots to hit on your Marblehead visit.

Abbot Hall
The seat of Marblehead’s government also houses Archibald McNeal Willard’s famous painting, “The Spirit of ‘76.” Outside, a small museum displays artifacts from the town’s maritime past. 188 Washington Street, 781-631-1000, abbothall.org.

Fort Sewall
Built in 1644 to protect Marblehead from pirates, the fort was later enlarged to ward off the British. The headlands area is now a public park with views of Marblehead’s lighthouse and harbor, harbor islands, and Cape Ann. Reenactment encampments of the historic Regiment take place yearly. End of Front Street, essexheritage.org/sites.

Spirit of ‘76 Bookstore
Wonderfully untrendy, the landmark bookstore sells collections of historical and sailing literature, in addition to the usual suspects. 107 Pleasant Street, 781-631-7199, spiritof76bookstore.com.

Stowaway Sweets
Started in 1929, Stowaway Sweets is the real deal. Can’t get to Marblehead? Arrange to have a replenishment of your favorite pralines or melt-aways shipped home. 154 Atlantic Avenue, 781-631-0303, stowawaysweets.com.


Shubie’s
The 1948 landmark gourmet store’s selection of imported foods, baked goods, and specialty wines is irresistible. Assemble a perfect on-the-go New England meal, starting with some rich Vermont cheddar cheese on home-baked bread, washed down with an Ipswich IPA. Cap it off with a chocolatey Marblehead mint from Harbor Sweets filled with peppermint crunch. 16 Atlantic Ave., 781-631-0149, shubies.com.

The Barnacle
Don’t come here if you don’t like seafood. Those who do will enjoy fried clams, steamers, and hot boiled lobsters with a selection of local ales. 141 Front Street, 781-631-4236, barnaclerestaurant.com.

The Landing Restaurant
The Landing sits at the end of a working pier and serves one of New England’s best lobster rolls. It was also the setting for the Michael Douglas film Coma. 81 Front Street, 781-639-1266, thelandingrestaurant.com.

Harborside House
Susan Livingston’s antiques-filled home overlooks the harbor and offers two oversized guest rooms. Built as a residence in 1850, the B&B also has an outdoor garden area and patio. 25 Gregory Street, 781-631-1032, harborsidehouse.com.

Harbor Light Inn
This 21-room inn dates from 1729 and has a yard and a pool. Many rooms have fireplaces, canopy beds, and Jacuzzis. Parking is complimentary. 58 Washington Street, 781-631-2186, harborlightinn.com.

The Details

Date of Settlement: 1629
Date of Incorporation: 1649
Zip Code: 01945
Population: 20,439
Total area: 4.53 square miles
Median household income: $84,473
Schools: 5 public elementary schools; 3 public middle schools (including 1 charter school); 1 public high school; 3 private schools
Notable Residents:  Peter Lynch, investor and author; Ted Hood, yachtsman(former resident but now in Rhode Island); Susan Estrich political advisor (former resident); Shalane Flanagan, American distance runner (former resident)

Topsfield

A bout 20 miles north of boston, Interstate 95 splinters into a system of smaller rural highways and routes. There, along US Route 1 in the near geographic center of Essex County, among a smattering of state parks and sanctuaries, is where you’ll find Topsfield, a small town (it’s just 13 square miles) with a big-family feel.

And family-friendly it is. An ideal long-weekend or day trip destination for local nature lovers, Topsfield is within minutes of a number of natural attractions. With its incorporation in 1650, the town boasts its fair share of historical points of interest, as well as commercial and cultural offerings. (In case you haven’t heard, Topsfield is host to a popular annual fair.) A largely residential town, Topsfield relies simply on its familial, laid-back vibe to provide a quality escape for visitors and a low-hassle way of life for those who live there.

One of the best illustrations—we say that literally—of life in Topsfield, from a kid’s perspective, at least, can be found at the Topsfield Town Library; more specifically, in its Children’s Room. The 32-foot-long mural by Cambridge artist David Fichter, entitled “Topsfield Reverie,” depicts children in various states of concentration and imagination, with familiar images of the town’s most well-known landmarks scattered in between. Among those Topsfield icons featured are the Ipswich River, the Topsfield Fair, the rockery caves at Audobon, Hood’s Pond, and Wheatland’s Hill, a favorite community sledding spot come winter. The mural imparts a dreamlike feeling, which might not be too far off for those who call the sleepy town home.

Although they, too, appear in the painting, other famous Topsfield sites are best enjoyed in reality. Most obvious, likely, is the Parson Capen House. On its new site near the historic house stands the restored Gould Barn, which belonged to one of Topsfield’s founding families by that same name (note to readers: the barn just so happens to be available for private functions). Another  notable but probably lesser-known landmark is the Coolidge Estate, the 571-acre site of what once was the home of lawyer, financier, and former MIT Corporation member William Coolidge, who died in 1992. The jewel in the estate’s crown is  Coolidge’s 24-room Georgian-style mansion, at which visitors can marvel from the surrounding sprawling grounds.

Coolidge’s estate is the appropriate embodiment of its home town of Topsfield, where the grander things in life easily give way to their simpler surroundings.


Fair Play

Nearly 200 years later, the Topsfield Fair is still going strong, and it keeps getting better.

If you live on the north shore, you’re probably familiar with the history of the Topsfield Fair. In case you’re not, a quick crash course: America’s oldest fair first took place in Topsfield in 1818, when the Essex Agricultural Society, the fair’s not-for-profit proprietor, was officially granted a charter. The Society, which was formed by a group of “practical farmers,” set a goal to “promote and improve the agricultural interests of farmers and others in Essex County.” Nearly 200 years later, the basic mission of the Essex Agricultural Society—to educate its public about and to promote the importance of agricultural activities in an atmosphere of fun and excitement through the medium of the Topsfield Fair—hasn’t changed, but the Fair itself certainly has.

What began as the Essex Agricultural Society Cattle Show, consisting of countywide exhibits and fairs, has evolved into a Massachusetts institution, complete with agricultural events (who could forget those record-setting gourds?), amusement park-style rides, shopping, and performances by contemporary entertainers. At its conclusion this year, the Fair will have been held in its existing location, on the grounds of the former Treadwell Farm,  for the 100th straight year (except for three years of hiatus during the Civil War).

This year’s fair, taking over Topsfield from October 1 through 11, will feature  headlining performances by Emily Osment and Mitchel Musso of the Disney Channel’s “Hannah Montana,” along with Andover band Boys Like Girls, a foursome known for its inspirational lyrics and messages. Other activities will include an opening night fireworks show, parades, a Midway carnival, a dog show, cow milking  and blacksmith demonstrations, and sand sculptures, to name a few. And then there’s the food: over the course of its 10-day schedule, guests can stuff themselves on everything from Italian sausages and giant turkey legs to homemade fudge and deep-fried Oreos—all in the name of agriculture. topsfieldfair.org.

What to do

Historical Society
Where to go to get your fix of culture and commerce.

Alfalfa Farm Winery
Richard Adelman owns and operates this rural Topsfield vineyard, which churns out a variety of hand-crafted wines. Open on Sundays in the summer, Alfalfa’s hours extend to the whole weekend in the fall, meaning there’s more time to take in wine tastings, culinary events, even the occasional class, from vineyard management to—yep, belly dancing. 267 Rowley Bridge Road, 978-774-0014, alfalfafarmwinery.com.

Parson Capen House
Once the home of the Reverend Joseph Capen, this original 17th-century house still stands on 12 bucolic acres of land overlooking the Commons. A National Historic Landmark, it remains one of the finest examples of Elizabethan architecture in the country. Visitors are welcome three days a week between June 15 and September 15. 1 Howlett Street, 978-887-3998, topsfieldhistory.org.

Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary
Mass Audubon’s largest sanctuary offers more than 10 miles of interconnecting trails that make for easy exploration of its forests, meadows, and wetlands. The most peaceful way to pass through? Hop a canoe. You must be a member of Mass Audubon to rent canoes, however, there is  a rental company in Ipswich, Foote Brothers, that offers several options. Get dropped off  upstream and canoe your way back on the Ipswich River, passing through the sanctuary along the way. 87 Perkins Row, 978-887-9264, massaudubon.org.

The Bicycle Shop
In Topsfield, bike buffs shop and get their gear serviced at David Smith’s The Bicycle Shop. Smith’s store is stocked with various models of bikes by brands like Kona, Giant, and Raleigh. Not shopping for a new ride? No problem. Stop in for some parts or a full tune up, a popular service that includes an inspection, cleaning, and any necessary adjustments. Topsfield Station, 7 Grove Street, 978-887-6511, biketops.com.

The ArtRoom Studio and Gallery
Uunleash your inner Picasso at this always-fun spot, which offers classes and workshops for all ages, as well as exhibits of completed works. Oh, yeah—the ArtRoom also doubles as one of the best birthday party venues in town. 30 Main Street, Village Shopping Center, 978.887.8809, theartroomstudio.com.


Gil’s Grocery
If you’re headed to dinner at a friend’s house, or if you’ll be dining out à deux, be sure to BYOB from Gil’s Grocery. The modest shop, with its weathered hand-painted wooden signs, serves up spirits with a side of nostalgia. 30 Main Street, Village Shopping Center, 978- 887-5921.

The Gift Horse & Bookshelf
Sandra Herrick’s has-it-all shop meets a number of gift-giving needs, be it for a wedding, a birthday, or retail therapy for yourself. Plus, the store’s selection of invitations and announcements will help get the word out about your own special occasion. 20 Main Street, 978-887-5225.

Rockport, Maine

An easy drive up I-95 leads straight to the heart of the Maine coast, where the charming town of Rockport promises laid-back luxury.

With its wealth of options for shopping, history, arts and culture, and dining and lodging, Rockport, Maine, makes for an ideal weekend getaway. In warmer months, the coastal town is a veritable beach escape in your own back yard.

Stay
We planned our weekend around a stay at the newly renovated Samoset Resort, a AAA Four-Diamond property on Penobscot Bay. The Samoset is one of New England’s most celebrated golf resorts, with 14 of its championship course’s 18 holes played along the ocean. Although we spent a misty morning on the course under the tutelage of affable golf pro Gary Soule, we discovered that there’s much more to the resort. A health club and massage services are at the ready for fitness-minded guests, but the main attraction is a new outdoor zero-entry swimming pool overlooking the Atlantic. The resort offers 178 rooms and suites. For utmost exclusivity, book the very private Flume Cottage, which occupies its own rocky promontory directly on the water. 220 Warrenton Street, Rockport, 207-594-2511, samosetresort.com.

Eat
Once in Rockport, you won’t have to go far to enjoy a four-star meal—actually, a AAA Four-Diamond meal. Marcel’s at the Samoset serves elegantly presented surf and turf dishes, which are complemented by an award-winning wine list. 220 Warrenton Street, 207-594-2511, samosetresort.com. Prism Restaurant and Gallery’s menus teem with carefully mixed salads and sandwiches, rich pasta plates, and succulent seafood dishes. Afterward, browse the gallery’s colorful glasswork, created by local artists. 297 Commercial Street, U.S. Route 1, Rockport, 207-230-0061, prismrockport.com. A new venture by chef/restaurateur Brian Hill, Shepherd’s Pie opened in May in historic Shepherd Block. Hearty pub fare includes fried clam tacos, porkbelly sandwiches, duck hot dogs, and, of course, shepherd’s pie, made with ground Maine lamb. Reservations aren’t accepted, but it’s worth the wait. 18 Central Street, Rockport, 207-236-8500.

See
The Center for Maine Contemporary Art features works by both established Maine artists and up-and-comers. Educational programs help visitors discover their own inner artists. 162 Russell Avenue, 207-236-2875, cmcanow.org. The Rockport Opera House hosts plays and performances of music, dance, and poetry.  A million-dollar makeover in 1993 has helped perpetuate its status as one of Maine’s most beloved cultural landmarks. Central Street, 207-236-2514, rockport.me.us/operahouse. Maine Sport Outfitters is a one-stop shop for bike and canoe rentals and guided kayak tours. Route 1, Rockport, 207-236-8797, mainesport.com. Neighboring Camden and Lincolnville are just minutes away and offer countless options similar to those that you’re guaranteed to love about this magical Maine town. —Lindsay Lambert

Essex

No shirt? No shoes? No problem. Welcome to Essex. Continue reading Essex

Destination: Salem

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Mention the city of Salem to someone in passing conversation, and the response will likely be a comment about witches. But these days, there’s more to this bustling seaport than a few black pointy hats and some dusty old brooms. Just point your mouse in the direction of Facebook and search for the Salem, MA fan page, where 14,000 people have turned this online destination into a modern speakeasy. Continue reading Destination: Salem

Destination: Middleton

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Pro Athletes, Ice Cream and Low Taxes – Middleton Has It All

Like the old chicken vs. the egg routine, a drive through the rolling countryside of Middleton might have you wonder what came first: the cow or the ice cream. If there’s one thing that this once-sleepy suburban town just 20 minutes north of Boston is known for, it’s the ice cream at Richardson’s that has kids and adults salivating all over the North Shore. Continue reading Destination: Middleton

Destination: Reading

nsfm10_reading_1Reading makes it tough to buy and even tougher to sell. By Jack Morris Continue reading Destination: Reading

Ski and Ride Guide 2010

Ski and Ride Guide 2010

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The 10 best places in New England to ski and snowboard this season. By Jack Morris. Photograph above by Greg Petrics.

nsfm10_skifeature_2Jay Peak: trails: 76; lifts: 8; lift tickets: $67
If there’s one thing skiers and riders don’t have to worry about at Jay Peak, it’s snow. With over 350 inches of the white stuff each year, some of the best glades, a liberal policy about skiing pretty much anywhere, and honest snow reporting (if it’s raining or it’s 20 below, they might just tell you to stay off the hill), Jay could be one of the finest places on the East Coast to make turns.

If you can snag a place in the tram line early in the morning (and if your legs can handle it), it’s tough to beat first tracks down the Face Chutes when there’s new snow. But when it’s all buffed out, a few laps on The Jet could bring a tear to your eye.

Where Jay has typically fallen short has been off-mountain amenities and a virtually non-existent village. But as part of a major long-term expansion plan that includes a hotel, ice rink, and Nordic center, Jay opens the doors this season to the long-awaited Tram Haus Lodge, a mix of 57 studios, one- and two-bedroom suites, a new restaurant, coffee shop, and a bar that looks out on the mountain. Yes, it’s a bit of a drive. And yes, it’s well worth it. 4850 Vermont Rte. 242, Jay, VT, 800-451-4449, jaypeakresort.com.

Loon: trails: 55; lifts: 12; lift tickets: $73
Standing at the top of the Loon Mountain Park, one of the resort’s five terrain parks and arguably the biggest and baddest of the bunch, it’s easy to see why this mountain has transformed itself from a family-friendly day trip destination to a jibber’s weekend paradise. With over 30 jumps and terrain features, as well as a 425-foot superpipe and quarter pipe that seems to reach as high as the gondola, this is where skiers and snowboarders from all over New England come for massive hang time.

But Loon is also famous for its groomers. Head straight to the summit with the stiff boards in tow and let it fly down Cant Dog or head over to the Lincoln Express quad  and carve into the sunny slopes of Boom Run or the bumps of Ripsaw. The new South Peak Resort is adding a touch of luxury to the area with on-mountain homesites starting at $400,000, but there are also plenty of options in the town of Lincoln with shuttle service to the hill. 60 Loon Mountain Rd., Lincoln, NH, 800-229-5666, loonmtn.com.

nsfm10_skifeature_4Smugglers’ Notch: trails: 78; lifts: 8; lift tickets: $62
Don’t let the family-friendly reputation fool you. Above the village center, slopeside condos, and low-angle groomers lie plenty of  steeps and secret stashes. With close to 300 inches of snowfall each year and lift ticket rates that leave enough cash in your wallet for a few apres-ski pops, Smuggs is easily the best bang for your buck. Head to the summit of Madonna early for a screamer down Liftline, then take your pick of any of the resort’s long cruisers while the kids get five-star treatment at the ski school.

The resort’s Snow Sport University ski and snowboard camp is helping to keep your kids entertained all day this season by outfitting them with Flaik GPS units that will track the miles, vertical, and trails skied each day. Smuggs also rewards its visitors with plenty of off-mountain options including airboarding (think sledding, but more intense), a Nordic center, outdoor skating rink, teen centers, The FunZone, and more. There’s also a mountain massage center, arts and crafts center,  and more options in nearby Jeffersonville. 4323 Vermont Rte. 108 South, Smugglers’ Notch, VT, 800-419-4616, smuggs.com.

Sunday River: trails: 132; lifts: 16; lift tickets: $79
Celebrating its 50th year this season, Sunday River has come a long way. And by long, we mean it’s going to take you some time to explore all eight peaks, so you better have a plan of attack. An early morning run or two down Spruce Peak is a good call, but if you don’t mind riding a few lifts, make your way over to Oz and Jordan Bowl before the crowds get there and you’ll be rewarded with either first tracks or some smooth corduroy, not to mention sweeping views of New Hampshire’s Presidential Range and Mt. Washington. If bumps are your thing, leave the kids to the terrain parks at the base of North Peak and Barker Mountain, then go show off on White Heat or stick to the more narrow and wind-protected runs of Top Gun and Right Stuff.

No matter where you make turns, you’re going to need a place to rest your head, and with plenty of on-mountain condos, making that last run of the day means skiing or riding right into your living room. But pampering is something Sunday River also does well. New upgrades at both Sunday River Grand Resort Hotels mean you can now sack out in front of a 42-inch flat-screen after a wild night at the Foggy Goggle. 15 South Ridge Rd., Newry, ME, 207-824-3000, sundayriver.com.

Stowe: trails: 116; lifts: 13; lift tickets: $89
As you wind your way up Stowe’s Mountain Road, there’s one turn that usually brings about the same reaction each time as the massive ridge of Mt. Mansfield comes into view: jaws tend to drop and stomachs tighten. Fly down the rollers of Lord and Hayride on any given morning and you’ll see why. Or head over to Nosedive and reach top speed on your new boards, then tackle the bumps of Goat on the next run.

For beginners and families, Spruce Peak’s tamer and sunnier slopes make carving turns memorable. With some of the best snow around (and conversely, some of the windiest conditions), classic runs that don’t always follow the fall line, and unbeatable backcountry terrain, Stowe makes it all worthwhile. The addition of the Stowe Mountain Lodge last season upped the ante ever more. The $400 million resort brought lush accommodations and a dedication to service more commonly found at Aspen and Deer Valley. Of course, there’s always the Rusty Nail down the road if your version of entertainment includes live music and shots of Jagermeister. 5781 Mountain Rd., Stowe, VT, 800-253-4754, stowe.com.

nsfm10_skifeature_9Killington: trails: 141; lifts: 22; lift tickets: $82
With six peaks, five base areas, five terrain parks, a 430-foot superpipe (with 18-foot walls), a seemingly endless network of lifts and trails, and a town that rivals Newburyport for its variety of bars, restaurants, and shops, Killington is unquestionably the “Beast of the East.” If you know how navigate the mountain, a good day at Killington will leave your legs sore and your belly ready for a full meal.

Head straight for the Skye Peak quad with a lap or two on Skyeburst, then tackle Bear Mountain’s steeps. Beginners have it made at Killington with their own learning area at Snowshed, as well as some great intermediate runs down Ramshead. While the area sees less snow on average than some of its northern neighbors, Killington makes up for it with unbeatable snowmaking. A trail that looked like an ice rink in the afternoon can turn into a buffed-out carving paradise by morning.

Take your pick from just about any type of lodging at Killington; there’s plenty to go around. The plush Killington Grand Resort Hotel and Spa is a top choice, while slopeside condos abound. Don’t forget to stop by  the Long Trail Brewery in Bridgewater for a few pints by the fire. 4763 Killington Road, Killington, VT, 800-621-6867, killington.com.

Bretton Woods: trails: 101; lifts: 10; lift tickets: $74
If you haven’t been to Bretton Woods lately, it might surprise you to learn that it’s now the largest resort in New Hampshire with four terrain parks, expert glades that you’d expect to find at Stowe or Jay Peak, and a wild zip line that hurls your carcass above the tree line straight down the mountain. Lapping runs off the Zephyr quad is a great way to warm up the thighs. Once you’re ready, and if the snow’s right, duck into the Rosebrook Canyon Glades or any of the double blacks on West Mountain. This is Bretton Woods? You betcha.

What hasn’t changed are the views of Mt. Washington, which make you feel as if you can reach out and touch the Cog Railway. On-mountain accommodations include an assortment of condos  but if you’re going to do it right, book a room at the upgraded Mount Washington Hotel, where crystal chandeliers and four-course dinners await, along with a nightcap at The Cave, easily one of the coolest taverns around. Route 302, Bretton Woods, NH, 800-314-1752, brettonwoods.com.

nsfm10_skifeature_11Sugarloaf: trails: 138; lifts: 15; lift tickets: $75
Some might say that the long drive into central Maine to reach Sugarloaf is the reason they don’t go there. Let’s hope more people feel this way because once you’re here, you have access to some of the best skiing and snowboarding in New England.
On powder days, Sugarloaf offers a couple of great options. Hop the Sugarloaf Superquad early, make your way to the summit, pick a line down the Snowfields, then do a couple laps in King Pine Bowl. With over 2,800 vertical feet of skiing and riding, it’s hard not to feel the burn.

If you’ve still got any juice left in your quads after lunch, go for greatness in one of the three terrain parks; a 400-foot-long superpipe, minipipe, and a skiercross course; or cool down under the Timberline triple.

Want to really spoil yourself? Book a three-level penthouse suite at the recently upgraded Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel, where a private sauna and hot tub await as well as easy access to the shops and restaurants in the village center. That’s a good thing, because after a burger from The Bag and a few Carrabassett Pale Ales at the Widowmaker, you’ll be glad your room is only steps away. 5092 Access Rd., Carrabassett Valley, ME, 800-843-5623, sugarloaf.com.

Sugarbush: trails: 111; lifts: 16; lift tickets: $82
With a combination of groomers, bumps, steeps, terrain parks, and high-speed lifts nestled in a classic Vermont ski town, Sugarbush makes it hard to drive home after a long weekend. When the snow’s good (which it tends to be in this neck of the woods), calling out sick on Monday morning from the lift line isn’t uncommon.

Start with a warm-up off the Valley House Double on Lincoln Peak, then make your way over to Heaven’s Gate and charge down Ripcord or Paradise, or just scrap the warm-up altogether and make a beeline to Castle Rock if there’s fresh powder. In the afternoon, hop on the Slide Brook Express for some cruisers on Mt. Ellen or some big air in the terrain parks. This season, the ‘Bush has added 75 acres of new glades. The resort also offers snowcat skiing when there’s a storm and the option to tour the backcountry with longtime local and ski movie star John Egan.

You can’t go wrong booking a room on the mountain at the luxurious Clay Brook, but there are also plenty of homes and condos in the valley and in nearby Waitsfield to suit anyone’s needs. 1840 Sugarbush Access Rd. Warren, VT, 800-531-8421, sugarbush.com.

nsfm10_skifeature_13Waterville Valley: trails: 52; lifts: 12; lift tickets: $67
For classic mountain towns in New Hampshire, it’s hard to beat Waterville Valley. The Town Square features a skating rink, a grocery store, and multiple restaurants and shops all surrounded by high peaks.

Because of its proximity to Boston, buses unload passengers by the hundreds in Waterville Valley, so be sure to get in line for the White Peak Express quad when the bell rings. If you are, you’ll be treated to some of the best cruising around, thanks to 100 percent snowmaking coverage. Roll over those edges and feel the wind scream through your helmet on runs like The Chute and Sel’s Choice. In the afternoon, after a sandwich and a cup of coffee at the Schwendi Hut, soak up the rays while lapping the Sunnyside triple on Ciao and True Grit.

Waterville has also gone out of its way in recent years to build up its terrain parks. Four different sections of the mountain are dedicated to jibbers with plenty of rails, boxes, and a 350-foot-long superpipe with 15-foot walls and its own Poma lift. Add to all of that a great racing program; an assortment of learn-to-ski and ride programs; multiple lodges, inns, and condos, and you’ve got a resort that’s worth moving to. 1 Ski Area Rd., Waterville Valley, NH, 800-468-2553, waterville.com.

Peabody: A Tale of Two Cities

Yes, there’s more to Peabody than just the mall. Continue reading Peabody: A Tale of Two Cities

Haunted Places on the North Shore

nson09_hauntings_7

These are the tales of lost souls said to have spooked North Shore travelers and residents for decades. Who are these restless spirits and what do they want? By Lauren Danahy. Photographs by Christopher Churchill. Continue reading Haunted Places on the North Shore

Haverhill

On a recent drizzly afternoon in downtown Haverhill, my 12-year-old persists in sticking his head far out the car window. He cranes his neck upward, ignoring the rain drops hitting him in the face, and stares intently skyward.

“Look at the rooftops, Mom—they look like stairs tipped on their sides.”

He won’t let it go until I see for myself, so craning my own neck, I, too, look up at the rooftops of Wingate Street, in the heart of Haverhill’s Arts District. The roofline of the old, mostly brick buildings looks like something out of Mary Poppins or Harry Potter. Crenellations like castle tops. Ornate and surprisingly delicate wrought-iron filigree. Elaborately patterned masonry, which upon close examination look precisely like tiny sets of brick stairs tipped up vertically like escape hatches to the sky.

The buildings are prime examples of Queen Anne architecture, a hodge-podge style that took hold in America in the mid- to late-1800s, during the height of the Industrial Revolution. Many of them became home to the shoe factories, leather shops, and the numerous shoe industry suppliers that would make Haverhill an industrial powerhouse and international shoe capital by the early 1900s. By 1913, one out of every 10 pairs of shoes in America was produced in Haverhill, which was referred to as the “Queen Slipper City of the World.”

Today, local businesses and buildings don’t hesitate to tout their shoe heritage. The Lasting Room is a popular sports bar on Washington Street, named after the room in shoe factories where a “last,” a foot-shaped block, was used for manufacturing and repairing shoes. A few doors down, the Tap Restaurant and Brew Pub dispenses microbrews with wooden handles that are actual lasts. The Washington Street Shoe District invites strollers with hanging plants, ivy-covered brick facades, and painted murals in between the alleys of the old buildings. Menus posted in the windows of chic bistros and flyers announcing this week’s live music schedule among the street’s numerous clubs further convey an artsy vibe. One recent visitor, in a fit of surprised exuberance, was overheard likening a walk down Washington Street to “strolling the streets of Paris.”

One might say that the aging Slipper Queen is in the midst of a gigantic facelift. Mayor Jim Fiorentini proudly points to the $100 million in new investments over the past four years. Shuttered factories are now chic lofts and condominiums near a vibrant restaurant and music scene, as well as two commuter rail stations.

The city has also received over $350,000 in federal and state funding for improvements, as well as new trees and plants in the restaurant and arts districts. Police foot patrols were added to enhance security, and a new boardwalk on the Merrimack River is being built.

“We’re struggling to regain our footing, but we’re finding it in the arts, our restaurants, and our wonderful architecture,” notes Margot Lindau, who relocated her store, Margot’s Gallery, into a space on Wingate Street after falling in love with the building and the neighborhood. “The buildings are gorgeous. Now they are finding new uses and new lives.”

Sole town

haverhillshoeStuart Weitzman is known among discerning shoe connoisseurs for his attention to detail and trademark use of unique materials. “Name another shoemaker who has worked with cork, vinyl, Lucite, wallpaper, and 24-karat gold!” gushes the copy on his website. He may want to add fiberglass to that list, as per one of Weitzman’s most recent creations. Called “A Weitzman Family Affair: Three Generations,” the fiberglass shoe was designed by Weitzman, his wife Jane, and his daughter Rachel, and is encrusted with Swarovski crystals. The shoe is not for everyone and not just because of its $5,000 price tag. Five-feet long and six-feet tall, the shoe is literally a work of art.

Along with 13 other creatively painted giant replicas of vintage ladies’ shoes, the Weitzman shoe is part of the city of Haverhill’s Shoe-labration, a community-wide arts celebration of the town’s illustrious shoe history. Conceived by a volunteer civic group called Team Haverhill, the oversized shoes were commissioned by local artists and have been installed in strategic locations throughout town. They will be auctioned off at a gala celebration on October 24, with the proceeds benefiting the Haverhill Chamber of Commerce Community Arts and Education Fund, as well as select local charities of their sponsors’ choosing.

Local artist Elizabeth Persing painted the Weitzman shoe, as well as a Loch Ness-type creature called the Merry MAC with the help of students from the Silver Hill Horace Mann Charter School. “The kids were really excited about it. Not just the ones painting, but all of the children. They waited in long lines and just went crazy.” Since working on the giant shoes, Persing has also volunteered to mentor children painting many of the decorative murals scattered throughout downtown. “Up until the Shoe-labration, I lived in Haverhill, but I didn’t do anything in it,” she says.

Haverhill’s Got It All, Minus The Commute

Bistro 45

Soft lighting. A charming beamed ceiling and the tiniest of open kitchens. Steak frites, brie, and Moet & Chandon on the menu. Are we in Paris yet? Mais non! This neighborhood eatery in the heart of the Arts District pleases more than just Francophiles; it’s a tapas and martini bar as well. 45 Wingate St., 978-469-9700, bistro-45.com.

The Tap Restaurant and Brew Pub

With its worn wooden floors and infinitely long wall-length bar, you’ll feel at home in this neighborhood favorite, which has been quenching locals’ thirsts for more than 100 years. They pile the nachos high and brew their own beer in-house. (Their Homerun American Pale Ale may become your new favorite.) Want more? Check out their regular live music and the ample back deck overlooking the Merrimack River. 100 Washington St., 978-374-1117, tapbrewpub.com.

George’s Restaurant

George’s Restaurant recently tripled in size, expanding from 40 to 140 seats. The dental molding on the ceiling and the brass in the mezzanine are as original as are the grilled lamb lollipops over warm onion compote and blueberry port wine drizzle. 77 Washington St., 978-374-5150, georgesonwashington.com.

Margot’s Gallery

When you buy one of Margot Lindau’s indigenous pieces of art or jewelry, she will supply you with one of her well-written, detailed information sheets. Buy a pair of Baltic amber earrings, for example, and you will learn that the Romans called the yellow fossil resin “Gold of the North” and that it is thought to instill confidence in the wearer. 52 Wingate St., 978-373-0200, margotsgallery.com.

Second Thoughts

Shop for artsy home furniture and accessories and feel good about yourself and the planet, for everything in this funky shop is recycled, reused, or repurposed. Shutters convert to an attractive plant stand, and a salvaged bed footboard becomes an unusual one-of-a-kind bench seat. 63 Wingate St., 978-374-2222, secondthoughtsonwingate.com.

Winnekenni Castle

Once a private summer residence, this  massive stone castle with four-foot-thick walls, nine bedrooms, a Grecian drawing room, and a Pompeian-style dining room serves as a recreational park and hosts regular events. 347 Kenoza Ave., 978-521-1686, winnekenni.com.

Image courtesy of chitchatlounge.com.

Image courtesy of chitchatlounge.com.

Paul Prue’s Picks for a Haverhill Live Music Club Crawl
Haverhill native, blues musician, and stained glass artist Paul Prue swears that the live music scene on Washington Street rivals that of New Orleans’ Bourbon Street, any day, but particularly on a Friday night. These spots feature national and local acts and all are within walking distance of each other, as well as commuter rail. The Chit-Chat Lounge has five different ballgames on the flatscreens, a Harley coming out of the wall, George Forman’s and Mohammed Ali’s signed boxing robe, DJs and live music, including, once upon a time, Jethro Tull and Joe Cocker. 103 Washington St., 978-374-9710, chitchatlounge.com. George’s Restaurant is a must-see on the third floor in Mal’s Lounge (see Where to Eat above). The Lasting Room is a pub and deli with great local live talent. 122 Washington Street, 978-373-9088, thelastingroom.com. For a good laugh, check out Pedro Diego’s with authentic Mexican food and live comedy on the side, 35 Washington St., 978-372-5247, pedrodiegos.com. No pub crawl in Haverhill would be complete without at stop at The Tap (see Where to Eat above) or at Peddler’s Daughter, one block over. This is a classic Irish pub in the best sense of the term. Pints and charm abound. 45 Wingate Street, 978-372-9555, thepeddlersdaughter.com.

For a Sweet Night Cap:
England’s Microcreamery is the perfect spot to end your evening, especially if you’re heading back to the train. Hand-churned on the premises. Cost: 59 cents per ounce. Infinite mix-ins. You can’t go wrong.
109 Washington St., 978-373-6400, microcreamery.com.

Haverhill Facts

Date of settlement: 1640

Date of incorporation: 1641

Zip code: 01830

Population: 59,902

Total Area: 35.6 square miles

Median Household Income:$49,833

Schools: 9 elementary schools, 4 middle schools, 2 high schools, Northern Essex Community College, Zion Bible College

Notable Residents: Alexander Graham Bell, Tom

Bergeron, Andre Dubus III, Carlos Pena, Rob Zombie

Real Estate

Median: Price: $350,000; 267 South Main St.; 5 bedrooms; 3.5 baths; 2,890 square feet; .24 acres. Listing Agent: Elaine Sawyer and Jim Fitzgerald, Re/Max.

High End: Price: $2,175,000; 43 East Broadway; 5 bedrooms, 7 baths, 8,579 square feet; 4.85 acres. Listing Agent: Connie Doto, Century 21 McLennan & Company. —Alessandra Bianchi; photographs by Robert Boyd

Swampscott

nsas09_swampscott_1Outdoor addicts answer the call of Swampscott’s oceanside attractions. Continue reading Swampscott

Rye, NH

nsjj09_rye_1Heading north for Rye’s four-course summer menu of sun, sand, surf, and seafood.

By Karen Sackowitz

Driving along ocean boulevard in Rye, New Hampshire can be a real test of concentration, especially as the narrow road winds its way over rocky cliffs, around jaw-dropping overlooks, and past gargantuan estates that seem straight out of The Great Gatsby. It is this classic Victorian charm and a keen sense of preservation that has held off the kind of development found in more inland towns. And for those who live in Rye, that’s just fine.

“Rye is slow to move,” says lifelong resident Priscilla Jenness. “When it comes to change, we like to take a good, long look at things.” Jenness should know. In addition to being Vice-Chairwoman for the town’s Board of Selectmen, she is also a ninth-generation resident, descending directly from the original Jenness family who lived here when the town was incorporated in 1726.

If the Jenness name sounds familiar that’s because you’ve probably seen it on signs signaling the way to Jenness Beach, a popular family destination on coastal Route 1A. Wallis Sands Beach, another New Hampshire State Park, is further up the coast and offers a small, pristine setting bordered on both sides by rock barriers.

For those who forego sunbathing for exploration, Odiorne State Park sits at the northernmost point of Rye. Boasting the largest undeveloped stretch of shore on New Hampshire’s coastline, Odiorne is home to sheltered tide pools, fresh and salt water marshes, a pebble beach, rocky shore, and a small sand dune area. Yearround access to the property’s pathways makes the park a big draw for hikers, bikers, and cross-country skiers. The park also houses the Seacoast Science Center, where interactive programs and exhibits help visitors feel a connection to their coastal environment. Offering everything from educational programs to a summer music series, the center is a vibrant institution not to be missed.

nsjj09_rye_3Rye Harbor is the gateway to more nautical discoveries. Whale watching, sport fishing, and lobstering tours are available, as well as a ferry service to the beautiful Isles of Shoals just a few miles offshore.

The bond between nature and community in Rye is no secret to Dave and Judy Sullivan, lifelong summer vacationers who became full-time residents in 1995. “We raised our three sons in Danvers,” says Judy, “But as they grew older we found ourselves spending more and more time at our beach house in Rye.” Golfers also flock to Rye in the summer. The Wentworth By the Sea Country Club’s pristine course is set against dramatic rocky coastline and is sometimes called “Pebble Beach East.” Rich in history, the course features four original holes which date back to the turn of the century.

nsjj09_rye_5Off the Grid: Rest and relaxation the old fashioned way—on Star Island.

Who knew that just by hopping on a ferry in Rye Harbor, you could travel to a place where life seems just as it was in the 19th century? That place is Star Island, part of the historic Isles of Shoals located off the Rye coast.

Since 1915, Star Island has been a summer gathering spot for weekly religious and educational conferences. Attendees explore topics from island geography and nature studies to world affairs and spirituality. Specially programmed family conferences offer a fun, familyfocused vacation for those looking to get away and reconnect. And for those who simply want to visit and explore on their own time, personal retreats can be booked throughout the season.

The Oceanic House hotel, built in 1874, offers comfortable accommodations, set menus, and family-style meals. Without amenities such as televisions and computers, it remains reminiscent of a simpler time. “It really reflects the gracious living of the 1880s,” says Brad Greely, an island visitor since childhood who now presides over the Star Island Corporation Board of Directors.

nsjj09_rye_2Maintaining that historical feel, while addressing the growing needs of visitors, is an ongoing balancing act for the corporation’s CEO, Vicky Hardy. “Change is a subtle process in an organization that’s been around for 100 years,” she says, “Any shift needs to be in line with the feelings of the guests.”

One such change will happen this year with the introduction of the island’s new Discreet Business Center which will offer guests Internet access and computer services for a small fee.

But by and large, Star Island is mainly for folks who love being unplugged , kick back, and relax. For almost a century, Star Island has remained true to its roots as a kindred spirit community.

To find out more about Star Island conferences and retreats, visit starisland.org.

Living the Rye Life: Chow down, gear up, and set sail.

Petey’s Summertime Seafood & Bar
The bright buoys, upstairs deck, and picnic tables set the mood for this fun seafood eatery. Keep an eye out back for fishermen bringing their fresh catch right to the kitchen door. Live lobsters are always a favorite, but you’ll hear just as many raves for their fish chowder, which fans of Petey’s declare to be nothing less than the best on the planet. Do you prefer rotors to wheels? Fear not, there’s also a helipad onsite just for you. 1323 Ocean Blvd., 603-433-1937, peteys.net.

Ray’s Seafood Restaurant
Don’t worry if you still have sand on your flip-flops, you’ll feel right at home whether you pull up a seat in Ray’s harbor-view lounge or on the ocean view deck. A seacoast favorite for over 40 years, Ray’s serves up chowders, rolls, salads, and stews, not to mention every fried option known to man. 1677 Ocean Blvd., 603-436- 2280, raysseafoodrestaurant.com.

Christine’s Crossing

Roam from room to room in this unique open marketplace-style shop to see an eclectic mix of upscale chic clothing, accessories, antiques, and local artwork.You’re sure to find something irresistible from an ever-changing selection. 1000 Washington Rd., 603-964-6063, christinescrossing.com.

nsjj09_rye_41Seacoast Science Center
At Odiorne State Park Surrounded by seven distinctly different habitats, the Seacoast Science Center offers exhibits, educational programs, and nature walks. An indoor touch tank lets kids see and feel tide pool animals, while deep ocean fish swim in a thousand-gallon Gulf of Maine tank. 570 Ocean Blvd., 603-436-1552, seacoastsciencecenter.org.

Rye Airfield

The area’s only indoor skateboard park features over 50,000 square feet of concrete pools, street areas, ramps, and ledges. Professional staffers are always on hand to teach safety-first techniques while skate teams drop in from time to time for shows. There is also an outdoor BMX track. 170 Lafayette Rd., 603-964- 2800, ryeairfield.com.

Whale Watching
Captain Brad Cook’s custom built “big blue boat,” the Atlantic Queen II, can carry up to 100 passengers with plenty of rail space for excellent viewing. Also check out Granite State Whale Watching with expeditions lead by graduate zoologists and biologists affiliated with the Blue Ocean Society for Marine Conservation. Rye Harbor, 603.436.8043,
whales-rye.com.

Island Cruises
The Uncle Oscar is captained by Sue Reynolds, a lifelong seacoast resident. Guests can choose a two-hour tour of the islands or a special three-hour walkabout of Star Island. Lobster trips are also available, featuring onboard demos and narration as the catch of the day is brought in. Rye Harbor State Marina, 603- 964-6446, uncleoscar.com.

The Details

Date of Settlement: 1623
Date of Incorporation: 1726
Zip Code: 03870
Population: 5,174
Total Area: 35.5 square miles
Median Household Income: $63,152
Public Schools: Rye Elementary, Rye Jr. High,
Portsmouth High School
Notable Residents: Dan Brown, author of The
Da Vinci Code; Herb Philbrick, author and former
FBI informant; Farrah Fawcett (rumor)

Real Estate

nsjj09_rye_6

Median
Price: : $449,900; 371 Wallis Rd.; 4 bedrooms; 1.5 bathrooms; 2,435 square feet; 1.27 acres. Listing Agent: Star Higgins, Bean Group.


nsjj09_rye_71High end
Price: $3,350,000; Ocean Boulevard.; 7 bedrooms; 6.5 baths; 5,789 square feet; 0.73 acres. Listing Agent: Amy Pender, Carey & Giampa Real Estate.

Wenham, MA

Blink when you drive through the center of Wenham and you might just miss the whole thing. But if you take it slow, it’s easy to see why the locals work hard to maintain the tranquility and charm of this small North Shore town. Continue reading Wenham, MA

Portland, Maine

The prohibition movement planted roots here in 1815 but since then, Portland, Maine has steadily established itself as the state’s (and some might argue, the region’s) social trend-setter. Here are a few of the newer and more notable spots to check off your hit list for a weekend getaway to Maine’s cultural capital. Continue reading Portland, Maine

Last Days of Plum Island?

The romance and tranquility of Plum Island has lured homeowners to its long stretch of open shores for decades. But could the natural forces that spawned an entire community now threaten its very existence? Continue reading Last Days of Plum Island?

Methuen

If you’re headed north for some tax-free shopping, don’t skip this sleeper town. Continue reading Methuen

Danvers

Danvers native Lisa Roberts is a busy mother of two. Ask her about her hometown, however, and she immediately becomes a Girl Scout. “Our troop would go to Endicott Park for picnics or to use the fitness trail,” she remembers joyfully. Continue reading Danvers

Ipswich

A rural setting with sea, history and diversity. From nature to culture and everything in between, this wonderful town does not leave anyone wanting. Continue reading Ipswich

Newburyport

There is an incredible sense of balance in Newburyport. It is the place where the river meets the ocean, where history meets modern culture, and where quiet natural beauty meets hustle and bustle. Continue reading Newburyport

Grand Bahama Island

We packed our bags for a trip to Grand Bahama Island—just the two of us. Continue reading Grand Bahama Island

Rowley – Going Around in Circles

Local boy with historical roots continues family tradition Continue reading Rowley – Going Around in Circles

Rowley – Salt Marsh Antiques

Built in 1805, this mortice and tenon farm building on Route 1A in Rowley was later used as part of a local trucking business by the Todd family. Continue reading Rowley – Salt Marsh Antiques

Rowley – A Getaway on Route 1A

Country Garden Inn & Spa in Rowley Continue reading Rowley – A Getaway on Route 1A

Rowley – The Fearsome Greenhead

On the 90-degree day his boat engine’s steering control cable snapped, North Andover’s Steve McCarthy became a particularly tasty target for the wicked winged carnivore known as the Greenhead fly. Continue reading Rowley – The Fearsome Greenhead

Rowley – Behind the Counter

The Agawam Diner’s Angela Mitchell Continue reading Rowley – Behind the Counter

Rowley – A Day at the Flea Market

Come rain, come shine, even come heart attack, Howie Fernald is in his space at Todd Farm’s famous flea market in Rowley. Continue reading Rowley – A Day at the Flea Market

Marblehead – Beach Day

Marblehead’s beaches do a lot with a little Continue reading Marblehead – Beach Day

Marblehead – Yacht Clubing

A visit to Marblehead’s sailing society Continue reading Marblehead – Yacht Clubing

Marblehead – Eyes to the Future

Marblehead 20|20 helps historic town look ahead Continue reading Marblehead – Eyes to the Future

Marblehead – A Renewd Spirit

Historic painting gets new life Continue reading Marblehead – A Renewd Spirit

Marblehead – Let’s Put On a Show

Marblehead Jazz Festival keeps groovin’ on Continue reading Marblehead – Let’s Put On a Show

Sailing into Marblehead

Hailed by its earliest settlers as “the greatest town for fishing in New England,” Marblehead is now known as “The Sailing Capital of the World,” boasting more boats per capita than any other town or city on the face of the earth. Continue reading Sailing into Marblehead

Salem – Heart of Historical Salem

“Four decades ago downtown Salem was on the chopping block. Continue reading Salem – Heart of Historical Salem

Salem – A Comprehensive Guide to Eating, Staying and Shopping in Salem

Places to eat…Spend some time on a dime: Continue reading Salem – A Comprehensive Guide to Eating, Staying and Shopping in Salem

Rockport – Two Walks, Two Writers

Venturing around a place that combines rugged natural beauty with remnants of local history can revitalize you. It’s even better when you discover surprises that aren’t listed in the local brochures. Continue reading Rockport – Two Walks, Two Writers

Rockport Guide

A Village Guide to Eats and Treats Continue reading Rockport Guide

North Andover – Anne Bradstreet

America’s first poet in the New World settled in what is now North Andover. Bradstreet’s first book of poetry was published anonymously in England, for to write as a woman was contrary to the Puritan code. Anyone who did was scorned and branded a risk to society. Continue reading North Andover – Anne Bradstreet

North Andover Guide

Where to chow down and shop in North Andover. Continue reading North Andover Guide

West Newbury

As editor of Northshore, I’m an ambassador for all that is quaint and charming, and certainly West Newbury has an endearing old-fashioned quality worthy of showcasing. Continue reading West Newbury

Boxford

A tale of two villages … one community Continue reading Boxford

Gloucester

America’s Oldest Seaport Looks Toward Her Future Continue reading Gloucester

The Maritime Man

His Spirit Keeps Fishing Heritage Alive Continue reading The Maritime Man

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