Owner, Melissa Donati

In Gloucester, Willow Rest may keep a low profile, but its menu is packed with big, bold flavors and farm-fresh ingredients. By Anna and David Kasabian

Inconspicuously situated in an old red-shingled building with gas pumps out front, Willow Rest is nestled at the bottom of a hill on a winding two-lane road riding up the spine of West Gloucester. Don’t be fooled by its modest appearance; inside is one of the most original eateries anywhere—not just the North Shore—which also doubles as a progressive gourmet grocer and unfussy neighborhood haunt.

Plop down on a stool at the counter or a chair at one of the tables and order from the simple paper menu or straight from the chalkboard of daily specials. Then, get ready for a wild, tasty ride. Chef and owner Melissa Donati has created a total food experience in her own image: warmly informal, eccentrically creative, unstintingly focused on quality ingredients, and with a Michelin-starred chef’s attention to detail: “The croutons floating on the soup were the wrong color,” she declared, “so I changed them.”

Come for breakfast and the Frittata of the Day, the Breakfast Burrito, the Morning Sandwich, or the impressive three-egg omelet, overstuffed with tasty fresh veggies and top-quality ham or bacon. Come for lunch or early dinner and feast on signature sandwiches like the Dogtown, Rte 127, Annisquam Delight, or the criminally addictive Big BLT, comprising crunchy cherrywood-smoked bacon, mixed field greens, sliced tomato, and mayo on grilled ciabatta. And then there’s their novel riff on the classic Cuban sandwich: Pork shoulder is braised overnight in a secret BBQ sauce, then piled onto a Saint Joseph’s roll (from the famous Virgilio’s Bakery of Gloucester), along with Black Forest ham (no hormones, no antibiotics), Swiss cheese, garlicky dill pickles, and spicy mayo.

And do not miss the focaccia, made from thin, herb-crusted dough. Options range from a modest sliced tomato-mozzarella-and-fresh basil version to some near-psychedelic combos, like sliced, marinated sirloin steak, hot cherry peppers, caramelized onions, mozzarella, and gorgonzola. Or, there’s the roasted yellow and red peppers, Kalamata olives, chopped tomato, roasted garlic, mozzarella, and feta. After sampling Willow Rest’s focaccia, you might, like us, swear off ordinary pizza forever.

Donati’s bakery turns out all manner of breads, pies, and cakes, including a velvety moist chocolate cupcake with a swath of buttercream frosting that will take you to heaven and back. There’s lots of fresh in-season produce from local farms—including Donati’s own mother’s—as well as artisanal cheeses and meats, and a selection of interesting grocery items that are, like everything else about Willow Rest, both different and delightful.

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The Menu

Chef: Melissa Donati. Sandwiches: The Big BLT ($5.99), Cuban ($7.99). Focaccia: Roasted Yellow & Red Peppers, Kalamata Olives, Chopped Tomatoes, Roasted Garlic, Mozzarella & Topped with Feta Cheese ($10.99). Dessert: Chocolate cupcake with buttercream frosting ($2.75). Location: 1 Holly Street, Gloucester, 978-283-2417, willowrest.com.

It used to be that the only way to get your fajita fix on the North Shore was to visit a chain restaurant. But recently, Mexican has emerged as a culinary trend, with a host of new restaurants opening in our own backyard. This run for the border has given us slow-cooked carnitas, garden-fresh pico de gallo, hand-tossed corn tortillas, and bowls of chunky guacamole. Whether it’s margaritas with friends or takeout for the family, these places serve up a variety of tasty options. Here’s a rundown of the top local spots, just in time for Cinco de Mayo. By Brandy Rand – Photographs by Anthony Tieuli

Mariscos Del Caribe, Agave

Agave
Named after the prickly plant harvested for tequila, Agave not only serves up a mean margarita, but it fills up happy customers with homemade tortilla chips and guacamole that’s made tableside. Locals know to head up to the third floor to grab a seat at the comfortable bar, especially on Mondays and Tuesdays, when tacos are just a few bucks each. Agave is jammed on weekends, so it’s wise to make a reservation or to come instead for lunch (try the spicy sopa de tortilla) or brunch (pick the a chorizo-stuffed breakfast burrito). 50 State St., Newburyport, 978-499-0428, agavemexicanbistro.com.

Casa Molina
Located a few blocks away from the beach on the border between Swampscott and Lynn, this take-out spot is as authentic as it gets. With generous portions and everything on the menu priced under eight dollars, Casa Molina is a great choice for a family fiesta. Everything is made to order, fresh and fast, including grilled vegetables for a healthy burrito filling (carne asada, chicken, al pastor, and carnitas are also available for meat-lovers). Tasty tacos are available American style (shredded lettuce, pico de gallo, cheese, and sour cream) or Mexican style (cilantro, onion, and lime). There are no tables to eat at, so be ready for your mouth to water all the way home. 183 Lewis St., Route 1A, Lynn, 781-581-0100, casamolinalynn.com.

Cielto Lindo
You’ve probably driven past this small restaurant a dozen times in downtown Beverly, always meaning to stop in—now’s the time. Be transported to an atmosphere reminiscent of Mexico with delicious guacamole prepared and served in stone mortars. Notable at Cielto Lindo are unique regional specialties you won’t find anywhere else, like the Pollo al Mole, a chicken smothered in a spicy, chocolatey sauce. Seafood fans will delight in an array of fish and shrimp dishes, like Pescado al la Veracruzana: tilapia with herbs, onions, bell peppers, tomatoes, and olives. If it’s classic Mexican you crave, several varieties of enchiladas and a make-your-own menu of burritos or quesadillas will fit the bill. Wash it all down with a cold Chelada: beer with lime juice over ice with a salted rim. 150 Cabot St., Beverly, 978-922-4657, cielitolindogrill.com.

Guacamole, Agave

Guacamole,  Unmasked Shannon Doyle of Newburyport’s Agave shares the secret of their tableside guacamole.

Guacamole
11/2  sliced ripe Haas avocado
1 rounded tbsp. diced Spanish onion
1 rounded tbsp. diced tomato
1 tbsp. chopped cilantro
1 oz. fresh lime juice
1 sliced Serrano chili
Dash of salt

Combine above ingredients in large bowl, mixing until ingredients are distributed evenly. Serve.

Cilantro
Holding court on a busy street in Salem for over 10 years, Cilantro has seen its share of change in the local dining scene. But this cozy, white-tablecloth restaurant is still going strong, serving up Mediterranean-inspired Mexican that offers a taste of the traditional with a twist. Expect everything from ceviche to tamales to albondigas de chipotle—cheese-stuffed meatballs cooked in a smoky chipotle pepper sauce. Owner and chef Esther Marin is always experimenting with new dishes, so the menu changes regularly. Cilantro is a fine-dining experience worthy of a lingering sip of anejo tequila and crispy sweet churros for dessert. 282 Derby St., Salem, 97- 745-9436, cilantrocilantro.com.

Comida Mexican Taqueria
If you find yourself hungry and meandering through Salem after a visit to the Peabody Essex Museum, look no further than Comida Mexican Taqueria, conveniently located a few doors down. A counter with several stools makes grabbing a quick bite easy, or you can grab take out (patrons can order in advance online). Comida is run by the Waldron family with a focus on locally sourced products, including produce from the Waldrons’ own farm. Check out fun events like “Holy Guacamole” to learn how to make your own, or “Heat Night,” a sampling of hot sauces, including the Waldrons’ own habanero salsas. “Like” Comida on Facebook and get 10 percent off on second and fourth Fridays, or pop in for $2.50 “Taco Tuesdays.” 131 Essex St., Salem, 978- 594-8220, comidasalem.com.

The Happy Taco
Food trucks are just getting a foothold in Boston, but Travis Grandon stayed local when launching the Happy Taco late last summer in Gloucester. While this bright yellow trailer might draw you in with your eyes, what really should be leading you is your stomach. It’s no surprise that one specialty is the fish taco, done right: California-style with crisp, pickled red onions and lightly battered cod that Grandon gets from local day boat fishermen. The carne asada taco was inspired by the fare in magical Rosarito Beach in Baja. Grandon admits his philosophy of global hand-held street food is based simply on what he likes to eat—and the man has phenomenal taste. Track down the Happy Taco on Twitter, @HappyTaco_Glo, or at thehappytaco.com.

Wrap  ‘n’ Roll: the science of burrito rolling in four easy steps with Travis Grandon, owner of the happy taco in Gloucester.

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Green chile cheeseburger, Howling Woof

Howling Wolf
A gathering spot for students, families, and couples, Howling Wolf covers all the bases: It’s spacious, has a hip and casual vibe, and offers live music on select nights. After smoothing out a few initial opening bumps, the food and service have fallen into their groove. The vegetarian posole, a red chile stew with vegetables and hominy, wins high marks, as does the Howling Wolf burrito with shredded beef, pinto beans, salsa, guacamole, chile con queso, and a touch of crispy bacon. Don’t miss the Monday night “Triple B Special”—a burrito or burger and a beer for 10 bucks—and the wildly popular 30 cent Mexican wings on Wednesdays. 76 Lafayette St., Salem, 978-744-9653, feedyourwolf.com

Red Lulu Cocina and Tequila Bar
This sexy, sleek space is a bright new spot on the Salem scene, serving artfully prepared cocktails like the Broken Heart or the Mezcal Mistress. But bringing a little class to an otherwise beer-and-flat-screen nightlife isn’t all this bar-cum-restaurant has going for it. It’s hard not to fill up on the chips, which are served with three kinds of spicy dip, but save room for ahi tuna tostadas and the delightfully messy zocalo grilled corn, which is smothered with lime aioli, chile powder, and cotija cheese. And because there are over 150 kinds of tequila, you’ll keep coming back for more. 94 Lafayette St., Salem, 978-594-5195; redlulusalem.com.

Spicy Cucumber Margarita, Red Lulu

Margarita Maestro the art of cocktails with Josh Jamison, owner of Salem’s red lulu and 20-year veteran of mixology.

“The philosophy behind my cocktail menu is [to be] organic and intriguing. I like to work with the freshest ingredients, often combining flavors that would not otherwise be seen together—incorporating spices (like rosemary and basil) and fresh fruits. Each cocktail is carefully balance; when I say ‘balanced,’ I mean that the levels of alcohol, sugar, and acid must all be as one—no single element should take center stage.  It’s fun to push the boundaries when it comes to ingredients, but at the end of the day, it always must come down to taste and whether or not a guest will say, ‘I’d like another, please.’”

Spicy Cucumber Margarita
11/2 oz. Cabo Wabo blanco tequila
1/2–3/4 oz. Patron Citronge orange liqueur
2–3 oz. simple syrup
2–3 oz. freshly squeezed lime juice
English cucumber slices
Serrano chiles

Muddle three or four cucumber slices and Serrano chile slices together in bottom of mixing glass. Add tequila, orange liqueur, simple syrup, and fresh lime juice. Add ice and shake, then pour mixture into a rocks glass.

White Lie
3–4 lemon wedges
11/4 oz. Maestro Dobel tequila
11/4 oz. St. Germain
1 oz. basil-infused simple syrup
2 oz. freshly squeezed lime juice
1 oz. pink grapefruit juice
1/2 oz. guava puree

Muddle lemon wedges in bottom of mixing glass. Add remaining ingredients, shake, and strain over fresh ice in a wine glass. Garnish with a lime wheel and strawberries.

Tacos Lupita
This is the amazing hole-in-the-wall place in Lynn (or Lawrence or Haverhill or Gloucester) you probably heard about from a friend of a friend. Though they may not look alike from the outside, these Tacos Lupitas are all owned by members of the same Salvadorian family and use the same recipes. The seemingly out-of-the-way locations aren’t stopping Tacos Lupita from having a line out the door on busy days, with the regulars (some come from Boston!) swearing by overstuffed steak burritos and, of course, the tacos. Popular for takeout or a casual quick bite on the go, the quality ingredients at rock-bottom prices can’t be beat. Many discover Tacos Lupita by pure accident, and with no official web presence, they aren’t easy to find—but perhaps that’s what makes discovering them all the better. 129 Munroe St., Lynn, 781-593-6437 (Lupita Restaurant, 22 Munroe St, Lynn, 781-599-3004); 505 Broadway, Lawrence, 978-681-4517; 194 River St., Haverhill, 978-374-1839; 68 Washington St., Gloucester, 978-282-9600.

Spice up your drink routine with a Hot ‘n’ Dirty Pickle at Lynn’s Blue Ox.

The success of the Blue Ox has much to do with its penchant for contrast. It’s an upscale yet casual white-tablecloth restaurant situated near Italian pizzerias and Korean noodle shops on an unremarkable side street in Lynn. The city’s reputation as an ethnic melting pot inspires much of the cuisine and cocktails at the Blue Ox. Chef and owner Matt O’Neil thrives on such juxtapositions, turning out seasonally inspired, approachable food with unexpected components, making his restaurant a destination for residents all around the North Shore, as well as from Boston.

Case in point: filet mignon, cold-smoked in old Jack Daniels barrels and perfectly crisped French fries made with aged potatoes. The bar was inspired by the kitchen’s creativity when it came to shaking up the Hot ‘n’ Dirty Pickle, a popular drink that has remained on the menu for nearly two years. Bartender Charlie Gaeta says the recipe was a fun collaboration with the staff, particularly server Holly Maitland, whose Maitland Mountain pickles are made on her farm in Salem.

A twist to the ever-popular dirty martini, the Hot ‘n’ Dirty Pickle uses the piquant brine from the Maitland pickles alongside Gloucester-distilled Ryan & Wood Knockabout gin, plus a dash of Sriracha, a Thai chili sauce. The coriander and juniper notes in the gin blend nicely with the pickling spices, and the heat of the chili provides an elusive umami, or savoriness, often found in foods like Parmesan cheese. Gaeta calls it a must-have pairing with the burger—“like a pickle on the side.” The cocktail also works well with oysters, given the fresh, light citrus elements from the gin. The best part? A pickle spear garnish that beats out an olive any day of the week. The exact recipe of a Hot ‘n’ Dirty Pickle is as elusive as Holly’s pickling spices, so it’s best enjoyed at the hands of bartenders Charlie and Gina at the Blue Ox, located at 191 Oxford St. Lynn, 781-780-5722, theblueoxlynn.com.  —Brandy Rand

Chef and owner, Mary Reilly

In Newburyport, Enzo offers authentic Northern Italian cuisine in a rustic setting to match. By Anna and David Kasabian

Here in downtown Newburyport, in what served as a leather mill a century ago, is Enzo, an architectural stew of high-ceilinged brick and beams, simply adorned in a sophisticated yet subdued palette. The large bar that fronts the room invites conversation and provides a cozy spot for a casual meal—and what a marvelous, fresh-tasting, lovingly made meal it was to be.

We began our meal (sitting at one of the 32 usually packed tables) with sautéed mushrooms with polenta, a recipe from the owner’s grandmother. One key to deliciousness is the Newburyport-grown organic mushrooms, which make this a deeply satisfying dish. Next, the braised heritage-breed Kurobuta pork belly, served with house-made pickles and plump, honey-baked cannelloni beans—a fabulous combination of sweet, sour, and umami. The smooth roasted tomato soup, made with caramelized tomatoes stewed with the rind of a good Parmigiano Reggiano, is mildly tart and totally refreshing.

For the first entrée, the excellent Chicken Under a Brick, served with herb-infused stuffing and kale, is made with free-range chicken cooked in a skillet under a 20-pound weight. This ensures even cooking and a well-crisped skin. The second entrée, homemade gnocchi with lobster and watercress, although tasty and featuring a generous portion of lobster, had too much sauce, while the gnocchi lacked the light texture that defines it.

For dessert, maple pudding, flavored with maple syrup that was reduced by half to max out the flavor, recalls the luxurious texture of a crème brûlée. We also tried the fried apple turnover, a tasty little nugget chock full of sweet apple, pear, and raisins and topped with a salted caramel sauce and a thick dollop of whipped cream.

Owners Dave and Mary Reilly’s mission is to introduce diners to authentic dishes from Northern Italy and, when necessary, adapt them to the ingredients available in New England. The result is unfussy, rustic cuisine with bold, clean flavors. While they are both refugees from the business world, at least Dave has the restaurant business in his bloodline: his long-retired grandmother lived in the household where he grew up, and shared her stories, recipes, and passion for food with the young Dave.

Mary, on the other hand, taught herself to cook and bake, which eventually led to a stint in catering. For her, this restaurant is about her deep love for food—and making sure she puts some of it on every plate.

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The Menu

Chef: Mary Reilly. Appetizers: Sauteed Mushrooms with Polenta ($11), Braised Pork Belly ($9). Soup: Roasted Tomato ($6). Entrees: Chicken Under a Brick, ($28), Gnocchi with Lobster & Watercress ($29). Dessert: Maple Pudding, ($9). Location: 50 Water Street, Newburyport, 978-462-1801, enzo-restaurant.com.

The perfect start: Mediterranean Mezza Platter

In Andover, Yella Grille’s Mediterranean cuisine is a spot-on representation of the real thing. 

What a wonderful surprise to find this cozy little European-style bistro tucked away on a tiny side street in Andover, steps from the town’s posh and lively shopping district. Co-owners Carlo and Danielle Berdahn have merged their energies, talents, and passion for authentic Mediterranean food and created a haven of casual comfort and fabulous flavors from the chef’s always-fresh handcrafted creations. In fact, when in town earlier this year, a producer from NBC’s Today show stopped for dinner at Yella and was so enamored of Carlo Berdahn’s cooking that he subsequently invited the chef to appear in a segment on the show.

In our visit, we started with the Mediterranean Mezza Platter, a plated version of the traditional Middle Eastern appetizer table filled with an array of exotic flavors, aromas, and textures. There are tiny meat pies—handmade, one by one, fresh every day—stuffed grape leaves, spring rolls, spinach pie, falafel, smoked eggplant babaganouj, and crispy house-made pita chips. All herbs and seasonings—seven in the falafel alone—are brought directly from Lebanon by Carlo and Danielle.

Next, the fattouch salad, another regional classic, arrives piled high with super-fresh romaine lettuce, tomato, cucumber, onion, parsley, mint, radishes, and sumac, all complemented by a dressing of olive oil, garlic, more sumac, and fragrant fresh mint.

The lamb chop entrée is divine, made with grilled Australian lamb for lighter, sweeter, smaller chops. They are seasoned with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice and served with an über-umami demi-glace that is simmered for five hours. On the side, a tender and delicate mushroom risotto is redolent of chicken broth, mushroom stock, butter, white wine, and shallots.

Carlo prepares the remarkable beef short ribs by searing the beef and combining it with carrots, garlic, onion, red wine, herbs, orange juice, and tangerine, then slow braising it all together for six hours. This is served with Lebanese couscous (larger than the French variety), cooked in a rich beef and chicken stock with caraway, cumin, cinnamon, and caramelized shallots.

For dessert, the hearty chocolate bread pudding with toasted house-made brioche and both milk and white chocolate is topped with banana and a dollop of vanilla gelato. The ultra-thin sweet crepe, on the other hand, is stuffed with slices of caramelized banana and a dreamy hazelnut-chocolate cream. Both are fresh and fabulous.

We highly recommend Yella—Arabic for “Come on, let’s go”—for the great food, prompt and cheery service, and the distinct feeling that this is what it must feel like to be home in Lebanon.

The Menu. Chef: Carlo Berdahn. Appetizers: Mediterranean Mezza Platter ($14), Fattouch Salad ($8.50). Entrées: Lamb Chops ($29.75), Beef Short Ribs ($26). Dessert: Chocolate Bread Pudding with Banana Flombage ($8.50), Sweet Crepe with Bananas ($7.50). Location: 16 Post Office Avenue, Andover, 978-749-0011, yellagrille.com.

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By Anna &  David Kasabian – *Photographs by Anthony Tieuli

Newburyport’s 10 Center turns a favorite dessert into a drink for chocoholics.

Winter flurries bring with them our cravings for warm drinks like cocoa and coffee, but at 10 Center in Newburyport, chilly evenings remain that way with the frosty tiramisu martini.

The cocktail covers cravings for both caffeine and chocolate. Plus, it can stand in for your dessert. “Instead of a cappuccino and chocolate cake, you can just have a tiramisu martini,” says bartender Emily Wetenkamp, who created the crème drink.

The martini comprises equal parts brandy, which adds delicious density, and espresso, which creates a full, foamy top. It’s also shaken with Faretti Biscotti Famosi, an Italian liqueur reminiscent of an almond cookie, and Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur for a punch of creamy sweetness. The mixture is served in a glass that’s rimmed with crushed lady fingers, closely resembling the real thing. Wetenkamp drizzles chocolate sauce in the martini glass before pouring, and says those who don’t like espresso can be creative.

“If you want it sweeter, substitute an espresso liqueur or Kahlúa in [the espresso’s] place,” she says. “I like authentic espresso, especially because it gives it that crème. It’s great for show, and it also soaks into the lady fingers. It gives it better flavor.”

Wetenkamp says that tiramisu is her favorite dessert, which is what inspired the cocktail. While the beverage itself is like a dessert, Wetenkamp says it can be paired with cheesecake, tiramisu (the real kind), raspberries, and even pretzels. Or, pair it with anything chocolate for a double dose of decadence. tencenterstreet.com

In the midst of winter’s icy grip, we set out on a quest to find the most mouth-watering chicken pot pie.

There’s something about pie that makes us smile. The American classic is a shell for all seasons’ ingredients: asparagus in spring, blueberries in summer, apples in fall, and potatoes in winter. A perennial favorite, chicken pot pie is the ultimate cold-weather comfort.

Tasked with finding the best chicken pot pie on the North Shore, it didn’t take long for me to narrow the field to two contenders: the venerable Harrows versus cheeky newcomer Ken’s Kickin’ Chicken. Both have a loyal following and claim to make their pies by hand using the freshest ingredients. Both offer only takeout.

I brought home two ready-to-bake pies and told the “judges” (my eight- and 10-year-old stepkids, Ben and Maggie) we’d be doing a blind taste test. Intrigued, they clustered around the oven as I extracted the pies. Before I cut into either, we noted the distinct difference in appearance: The crust of Pie A (Harrows) was pale and uneven, while Pie B’s (Ken’s) puffed up to a golden brown with perfectly turned edges.

On the plate, both pies oozed creamy gravy, bits of veggies, and big chunks of tender chicken. Harrows’s was filled with potatoes and carrots; Ken’s with carrots, peas, and stuffing. Both pies were quite tasty, with the biggest difference in the texture of the crust—Harrows’s  was more traditional and flaky; Ken’s had a thinner, crispier consistency with hints of butter.

“If I had to eat any chicken pot pie, it would be Pie B,” Maggie said. “Pie B is the best,” echoed Ben. My husband just nodded and went back for seconds.

So, no matter how you slice it (pun intended), Ken’s Kickin’ Chicken offers a delicious, family-friendly meal that tastes homemade. Ken’s Kickin’ Chicken, 130 North St., Salem, 978-825-0200, kenskickinchicken.net.

 Meat the Best Six local meat pies worth a try.

1. Harrows Chicken Pies, 126 Main St., Reading, 781-944-0410, or 352 Broadway, Saugus, 781-231-7410, chickenpie.com. 2. Guinness-stewed beef and lamb at the Old Spot, 121 Essex St., Salem, 978-745-5656.  3. Take and bake your own chicken, turkey, or beef pot pies from Henry’s, 588 Cabot St., Beverly, 978-922-388, henrysofbeverly.com. 4. Lobster pie at the Causeway Restaurant, 78 Essex Ave., Gloucester, 978-281-5256. 5. The Shepherd’s Pie with lamb and gravy at The Port Tavern, 84 State St., Newburyport, 978-465-1006, theporttavern.com. 6. Oven-ready chicken or turkey pies at Seven Acres Farm, 4 Concord St., North Reading, 978-664-2660.

Salem’s Green Land Café spices things up with this seasonal spirit.

As the leaves turn each fall, so does the tide of tourists that descends upon historic Salem. With October as the busiest month of the year in this beautiful, bewitching coastal town, restaurants and bars serve up seasonal fare to delight locals and tourists alike.

Greenland's Autumn's Dawn

One such respite is Green Land Café, which turns out a thoughtful cocktail menu that rivals some of Boston’s better-known craft bars. With a focus on all things local and sustainable (the bar is actually handcrafted from the building’s original oak doors), bar steward Cai Walkowiak focuses on the quality of ingredients, as well as the history behind some of your favorite tipples.

Case in point: Walkowiak was inspired by the changing seasons to create Autumn’s Dawn, a balanced cocktail with hints of apple and ginger, plus the subtle sweetness of organic maple syrup. He uses Laird’s Applejack, an apple brandy made by America’s oldest family-run distillery—a recipe said to have been coveted by George Washington himself (take one sip and you’ll see why). Plus, the warming qualities of the brandy are perfectly suited for a crisp stroll around Salem to take in the spectacle that is Halloween.

Green Land Café also serves an impressive 16 beers on tap, most of which are craft brews, such as Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale and local brands like Mayflower and Pretty Things. To complement the libations, a diverse menu of small plates and tapas serves up hearty helpings that are perfect for sharing. 87 Washington Street, Salem, 978-744-7766

Autumn’s Dawn – Makes one serving
2     oz. Laird’s Applejack
1/2     oz. maple syrup (preferably local and organic grade A)
1/2     oz. Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur
1/2     oz. fresh lemon juice

Pour all ingredients into a shaker filled with ice, shake vigorously, and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Serve straight up with flamed orange peel as garnish.

In Newburyport, Ceia’s Kitchen & Bar offers artful cuisine inspired by France, Italy, Portugal, and Spain. By Anna and David Kasabian

Calamari

Ceia’s Kitchen & Bar is cozy and imaginatively designed, mixing original brick and beams with contemporary accents, along with a menu that is ambitious and inventive, to say the least. Le Cordon Bleu-trained Billy Brandolini, or “Chef Brando,” as he is better known, says his flights of culinary eccentricity borrow from Spain, Portugal, France, and Italy. This food is familiar, yet totally new at the same time.

To begin, a fragrant calamari puttanesca with white anchovies, olives, Cippolini onions, caper berries, and tomatoes. Chef Brando calls it a cross between Italian and Portuguese, because the calamari is marinated in Portuguese flavorings and is served with puttanesca sauce.

Next comes a crispy soft-shell crab panini with coriander crust, squid-ink aioli, and cilantro leaves. This cross-cultural culinary collision delivers high drama for the taste buds.

Brando’s unique housemade pappardelle bolognese shuns traditional veal and ground pork in favor of pork jowls and ground buffalo, which he brings together in a well-seasoned traditional tomato sauce. The baked lobster entrée included calamari, linguica, lobster, smoked tomato purée, and lobster gel with a lemon-and-ramp gremolata. Chef Brando uses sherry, cognac, and saffron to flavor the bold lobster stock and tomato base that accents the fresh fish flavors.

The sensational boar chop, imported from Italy, is prepared with a recipe from its native land: It is seasoned with housemade truffle green salt, dipped in flour, and then dredged in eggs with herbs and pecorino Romano cheese. It is served aside a fava bean ragu with mustard leaves, leeks, white wine, veal glacé, and fresh baby cauliflower.

For dessert, it’s a bread pudding, made from buttery brioche with blackberry basil and a puff of clove meringue. And don’t miss the chef’s signature banana brulée, with banana chunks dipped in raw sugar and torched to form a sugary shell, served with roasted hazelnuts and a little more of that intriguing clove meringue.

Signature Banana Brulée

Chef: Billy “Chef Brando” Brandolini. Appetizers: Calamari ($11), Soft Shell Crab ($12). Pasta: Pappardelle Bolognese ($19). Entrées: Baked Lobster ($29), Boar Chop ($25). Desserts: Bread Pudding ($9), Banana Brulée ($9). Location: 25 State Street, Newburyport, 978-358-8112

A day spent pickling and preserving provides a whole year of flavor. Here are eight recipes from the north shore’s top chefs, farmers, health store owners and nutritionists. By Anna and David Kasabian Photographs by Glenn Scott, Food and Prop Styling by Maria Del Mar Sacasa

Whether you call it pickling, canning, preserving, freezing, drying, or, as Grandma might have called it, “putting food by,” storing food for later consumption is hot. It’s no surprise, really, considering what drives the trend: the economy; food safety; the desire to limit the sugar, salt, and preservatives we eat; the fresh/local/seasonal movement; and, of course, a craving for delicious food. As these North Shore folks will show you, whether you can your own items or stock up at the farm stand, it’s pretty easy to fill your pantry.

Salsa yields 6 pints Recipe developed by Henry and Helen Smolak of Smolak Farms, North Andover (smolakfarms.com). This is a great recipe for using up the very last of the tomato harvest, when those late-ripening specimens may not be pretty to look at but still taste great.

8      c. ripe heirloom tomatoes, peeled, chopped, and drained
21/2    c. chopped onion
11/2     c. chopped green pepper
3      medium-size jalapeno peppers, seeded, cored, and chopped
6     cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2     tsp. ground cumin
2     tsp. ground black pepper
2     tbsp. canning salt
1/2     c. chopped fresh cilantro
1/3     c. sugar
1     c. vinegar for boiled water bath or
1/3 cup vinegar for pressure canner
16     oz. canned tomato sauce
16     oz. canned tomato paste

Place a large stockpot half filled with water on high heat and bring to a slow boil. Meanwhile, mix all ingredients in a non-reactive pot, such as stainless steel or porcelain. Boil for 10 minutes. Pour into six hot, sterilized jars. Secure the lids and place in boiling water bath for 15 minutes.

Sweet Pickle Relish yields 3 pints Of her recipe for relish, Helen Smolak says, “You don’t need to peel the cucumbers before shredding. I use the shredding attachment on my food processor (a large-hole box shredder also works). If you are using large cucumbers, cut them lengthwise and scoop out the seeds before shredding. If you garden, you can save the seed for next season.”

4     c. shredded cucumber
1     c. chopped onion
1     tbsp. pickling spice
1     c. white vinegar
11/4     c. sugar
1      tbsp. salt

Combine all ingredients in a medium-size saucepan or stock pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it comes to a slow boil. Turn the heat down to low and allow it to simmer for five minutes. Remove from heat. Using a slotted spoon (to drain excess liquid), place relish in six eight-ounce freezer-safe containers and freeze.

Summer Pomodoro serves 4 Recipe developed by Salem’s 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar chef/owner Antonio Bettencourt (62restaurant.com). Bettencourt says, “When it comes to resurrecting the flavor of summer in the dead of winter, for me, it’s all about the tomato. Here is how I try to relive summer’s glory when ‘baby, it’s cold outside.’”

He explains, “Throughout the year, we make pomodoro (tomato) sauce with canned Italian San Marzano tomatoes. But when the local tomato season is in high gear, we switch over to this version with fresh tomatoes.”

To serve the sauce come wintertime, Bettencourt says, “First, I blanch (parboil) the tomatoes for just a few seconds to loosen the skin and then shock them in an ice bath to stop them from cooking. Next, I peel and quarter the tomatoes and remove the seeds. I then place the tomatoes in a vacuum bag (like a Foodsaver) and suck out all the air. Now freeze the tomatoes until needed.”

1/2     c. extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
3     cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1     pinch crushed red pepper
2     lbs. frozen tomato segments (see above), thawed
Salt to taste
Several sprigs of thyme, tied with twine

Put 1/2 cup olive oil, garlic, and crushed red pepper in a small saucepan over very low heat. Cook gently for 15 minutes. Do not brown the garlic. Remove from heat. Heat a large saucepan over very high heat. Add a thin film of olive oil and add the tomatoes and salt. Cook uncovered for 10 minutes until the sauce thickens and the tomatoes break down. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon to prevent scorching. Use the spoon to break up the tomato segments. Lower heat to medium, add thyme and oil with garlic and red pepper. Simmer uncovered 20 minutes longer. Serve over pasta of your choice.

Pear Chutney yields 3 pints The credit for this delicious pear chutney recipe goes to Russell Orchards’ beloved Grammy, mother-in-law of owner Miranda, and the creator of the iconic cider donuts and apple pies that still make a visit to Ipswich’s Russell Orchards an absolute must every autumn.

3     lbs. pears
1/2     c. raisins
1/2     c. brown sugar
1/2     c. apple cider vinegar
1/2     c. water
1     clove garlic
1     tbsp. mustard seed
2     tbsp. fresh ginger root, finely minced
1/2     tsp. cumin
1/2     tsp. turmeric
1/4     tsp. cloves
1/2     tsp. cinnamon
A few drops of hot sauce

Peel, core, and dice pears. Peel then mince garlic, or push it through a garlic press. Place all ingredients in a heavy saucepan and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes, until thickened. Stir frequently to prevent scorching. Pour chutney immediately into sterilized jars and seal. Store in refrigerator. Makes four to six eight-ounce jars.

Green Tomato Mincemeat yields 12 pints Caroline Gallivan, chef/owner of Hamilton’s The Hungry Fox Caterers (thehungryfoxcaterers.com), treasures this recipe, given to her by a dear friend. Believe it or not, she even fills pies with it. “I make a lot of it at the same time,” she says, “and if I make it in October, it lasts in the refrigerator until Christmas. It is also good in turnovers or as a topping to ice cream or frozen yogurt.” Gallivan’s secrets to success are easy to follow: “Use a heavy pot, stir every five minutes, and taste to adjust sweetness.”

6     lbs. green tomatoes, minced
5     lbs. green apples, peeled, cored, and minced
1/2     lbs. unsalted butter
4     lbs. light brown sugar
1     c. white vinegar
2     tbsp. salt
3     tbsp. ground cinnamon
2     tbsp. ground cloves
2     tbsp. ground allspice
3     lbs. raisins
3     oranges, zest and juice only
2     lemons, zest and juice only
1/2     c. rum or brandy

Place all ingredients into a large non-reactive pot, such as stainless steel or enamel. Turn the burner to medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture just begins to bubble. Reduce heat to simmer. Simmer for 2.5 to 3 hours until mincemeat is thick. Place in hot, sterilized glass or ceramic containers. Seal tightly. Refrigerate.

Kim Chee yields 1 gallon Recipe developed by farmer and nutritional therapist Diana Rodgers of South Hamilton’s Green Meadows Farm (gmfarm.com). Rodgers explains the mysterious transformation of ordinary vegetables into this spirited and nutritious Korean side dish. “Homemade sauerkraut, kim chee, and other lacto-fermented foods are very beneficial. Lacto-fermentation happens when the starches and sugars in vegetables and fruit convert to lactic acid by a friendly, lactic acid-producing bacteria. They contain probiotics, which help keep our immune system strong.”

You will need either a one-gallon ceramic crock, wide-mouth glass jar, or food-grade plastic bucket; a ceramic plate that fits inside crock or bucket; a stone, brick, or something else heavy to hold the plate down; and a cloth cover to keep everything clean.
1     whole red cabbage
1     whole green cabbage
1     bunch kale
1/2     c. chopped fresh dill
2     cloves garlic
10     white peppercorns
10     juniper berries
2     tbsp. unrefined sea salt
1    tsp. red pepper flakes (more if you like it hotter)

Shred the vegetables with a grater or chop with a sharp knife. Mix the chopped vegetables in a large bowl. Put a one-inch layer in your container or bowl and sprinkle lightly with salt. Repeat until done. Top the jar off with some water and place the plate on top upside down to hold the vegetables down inside the brine. Cover the plate with a cloth and a weight. For the first 24 hours, keep tamping the vegetables down every few hours to make sure everything is immersed in liquid. Leave the jar in a corner in the kitchen and check on it every few days. If some mold appears on the top, remove as much as you can and clean off the plate. (The vegetables are safe inside the brine, so don’t worry about any mold you see.) Depending on how warm your kitchen is, the kim chee is ready in about two weeks, but you can leave it longer if you wish. Once it has reached the desired flavor, cover with a lid and refrigerate.

Basil Ice Cubes makes 12 cubes Diana Rodgers told us she likes to make these and use them when it’s cold outside. They’re the perfect way to make a quick pesto when summer’s long gone.

1    bunch of basil leaves
1    tsp. water

Wash a bunch of basil and remove thick stems. Throw into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade, add a scant teaspoon of water, and pulverize to make a paste. Quickly scoop into ice cube trays and put in freezer. Thaw at room temperature to use.

Refrigerator Bread and Butter Pickles makes 2 pounds Recipe deveolped by Russell Orchards owner Miranda Russell. This is a really simple recipe to execute, and the results are delightful. It’s a great beginner recipe for pickling novices, and a welcome relief from all that equipment and process for the hard-core pickling veteran.

2     tsp. black peppercorns
11/2     c. vinegar
1     c. water
1     c. sugar
3     tbsp. kosher salt
2     tsp. dill seed
1     medium onion, peeled and sliced
2     lbs. pickling cucumbers, peeled and sliced
1     bunch dill

Sterilize and keep hot four one-pint jars with tight-fitting lids. Put black peppercorns, vinegar, water, sugar, kosher salt, and dill seed in a saucepan and bring to a boil.  Meanwhile, divide onion, cucumber, and dill among the four jars and pack the vegetables tightly into them. Pour hot liquid into the jars, covering the vegetables and filling to just below the lid. Refrigerate.

*Note When a recipe calls for hot sterilized jars, simply run your jars through a dishwasher on high heat before you start your recipe, then leave them in the hot dishwasher until needed.