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On The Town: Ipswich

Items for your Ipswich itinerary.

Luna Sea!

Pavilion Beach Park on the causeway between Little and Great Neck and launch your kayak onto Ipswich Bay for no charge. Turn right for quiet marsh paddling, veer left for the Ipswich Marina, or straight ahead on Plum Island. On the way home, stop at Clark Pond Overlook for birdwatching. Little Neck Road. Ithaki Restaurant Owner Petros Markopoulos has been serving modern Mediterranean cuisine since 1997. The baked moussaka is a crowd pleaser, but the cheese saganki is culinary nirvana. 25 Hammatt St., 978-356-0099. Zumi’s Former Everest sherpa Umesh Bhuju serves fair-trade coffee in his friendly spot downtown (try the Caramel Cloud Latte). The ice cream rocks. 40 Market St., 978-356-1988, zumis.com. Nails Etc. Day Spa The paraffin pedicure here provides serious toe time. The spa has comfy chairs to sit in. 34 Market St., 978-356-9491. The Farm Store Appleton Farms’ 40 milking cows produce fresh milk free of additives, sold in old-fashion glass bottles. Coming soon: Dairy manager and award-winning cheese maker John Miller aims to make fresh ricotta, cheese spreads, brie, cheddar, and a Jersey milk parmesan. You can also buy grass-fed beef. The store is located in the barn off the Route 1A entrance. 978-356-3825. 1640 Hart House Scrumptious American cuisine includes shepherd’s pie, pumpkin ravioli, chicken with cranberry sausage stuffing, and huge glasses of Cabernet. Save room for the blueberry cobbler. Dine alfresco on the rooftop deck. 51 Linebrook Rd., 978-356-9411. Russell Orchards On your way to Crane Beach, stop to pick your own strawberries, blueberries, or apples in season. Back at the barn, you may catch some family folk music by farm manager and singer Miranda Russell. 143 Argilla Road, 978-356-5366, .

Foote Brothers Canoe & Kayak Rental Early summer, the Ipswich River’s woods are alive with birdsong. Much of the river is accessible only by canoe, so you feel you have entered wilderness as you paddle through the wildlife sanctuary, state parks, and Wenham Wetlands. It’s also a favorite with trout fishermen. Willowdale Dam, 230 Topsfield Rd., 978-356-9771, footebrothers canoes.com. Luna Sea! Owner Elaine Pura sells an eclectic mix of crafts, clothing, and furnishings from local artisans, plus items from her travels, with an emphasis on South African foods and cooking. She also has an eye for colorful textiles. 18 Market St., 978-356-8848, lunaseaarts.net. The Inn at Castle Hill Drive through the iron gates and enter another world. Many rooms have stunning views of salt marsh or ocean.

After a hearty breakfast, enjoy a long walk on the 2,100-acre estate along Crane Beach or through the woods. Leave your cell phone at home. 280 Argilla Road, 978-412-2555.

Visit Newport, RI

The Grill at Forty 1˚ North

Stylish hotels, gourmet restaurants, and a host of attractions are all helping to put the “new” into Newport, Rhode Island. By, Andrew Conway

History may be a powerful draw for visitors to Newport, but this is a city that looks ahead as much as it looks back. New hotels, restaurants, shops, and attractions keep this classic New England resort town looking fresh and vibrant, offering a summer sojourn that will put you in instant relaxation mode.

Stay
Perched on the waterfront on Thames Street, next to a private yet bustling marina, Forty 1˚ North has set a new standard in modern luxury accommodations. This stylish boutique hotel has 28 rooms, many with views of Newport Harbor, featuring Frette linens, soaking tubs, Malin + Goetz bath products, and on-trend accessories such as in-room iPads. The two Grand Suites and four Harbor View Suites are the pick of rooms, with two Cottage suites in separate buildings and two spacious Loft Suites above neighboring Christie’s restaurant. Start with a cocktail in the Oval Bar and a seafood dinner in The Grill, then relax at the Pavilion Bar on the marina. Check out the new 41˚N Card offering priority access, exclusive benefits, and special events during the summer months. 351 Thames Street, 401-846-8018.

Eat
Celebrating its first anniversary this summer, Thames Street Kitchen continues to dazzle diners with its stellar cuisine. Chefs Chad Hoffer and Tyler Burnley deliver ever-changing “field-to-fork” menus featuring fresh and organic produce from local growers in a casual, vibrant setting. 677 Thames Street, 401-846-9100. Just along Thames Street, Restaurant Bouchard is perfect for a romantic dinner with classic French dishes prepared by chef and owner Albert Bouchard. It’s also one of the best inns in Newport, so you can make a weekend of your meal. 505 Thames Street, 401-846-0123. Christie’s is part of Forty 1˚ North but has a totally different vibe. Fun and playful with swing seats, Neptune chairs, a wall paying homage to Newport bathing beauties, and outdoor dining, Christie’s serves up delicious Asian-inspired tapas plates and high-octane cocktails. 351 Thames Street, 401-846-8018.

See
Jump in the car for a wonderful day of mansion hopping. The Breakers, Marble House, and The Elms are the grandest of the Newport Mansions open to the public, but a visit to any of the 11 properties in The Preservation Society’s unique collection will provide a fascinating insight into America’s Gilded Age. 401-847-1000. For tennis fans, Newport’s International Tennis Hall of Fame & Museum has an unrivaled collection of memorabilia dating back to the 1800s, and you can watch some of today’s top professionals and amateurs playing on the historic grass courts during the summer. 194 Bellevue Avenue, 401-849-3990. Newport is awash with colorful festivals throughout the year. Summer 2012 highlights include the Annual Great Chowder Cook-Off (June 2), Ocean State Tall Ships Festival (July 6-9), and Celtic Rock Festival (August 25). 800-976-5122.

Clamming in Ipswich

Clamming is a time-honored tradition—and industry—in Ipswich.

Ipswich has been tied to clams ever since Masconomet, chief of the Agawams, spent summers in the 1660s fishing and clamming on Hog Island. The salt, the mud beds of the tidal estuaries, and the ocean’s numerous nutrients all contribute to the clam’s abundance and taste, says Ipswich shellfish constable Scott LaPreste, a former clammer. “They taste real sweet, which is a function of the cold water. It keeps them fresh and firm,” adds LaPreste.

Clamming is still a robust business in town, worth up to $14 million annually. Despite all-weather digging, the whims of a clam’s lifecycle (it takes two to four years to grow to legal size), closings due to pollution or red tide, it makes sense as a good part-time living. The key to the clam’s survival is a cap of 125 commercial licenses, reserved for residents only. That ensures that only the serious stewards stay in business and self manage the 1,000 acres of flats.

Clammers dig in beds ranging from Plum Island Sound to the Castle Neck River. Residents can buy a recreational license with daily limits. Non-Ipswich residents can buy a day license. Need gear? Tedford & Martin’s Hardware on Hammat Street sells clam forks and baskets.

“Most dealers have their regulars they buy from year round,” says David Pulsifer, a clammer and the warehouse manager for Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market. They sell to distributors like Ipswich Shellfish, which in turn sells to restaurants like the Clam Box and Choate Bridge Pub in Ipswich, or Woodman’s and Farnham’s in Essex. A bonus: State rules dictate that because of the clear water, Ipswich clams can go straight to market without having to be cleaned.

Lawrence “Chubby” Woodman of Woodman’s may claim to have invented the fried clam, but Ipswich clammer Thomas Soffron took the surf clam, sliced it, fried it, and invented clam strips. The Soffron Brothers Company, started in Ipswich in 1938, had an exclusive deal with Howard Johnson’s restaurants to provide its trademark strips.

People will drive miles for a box of fresh Ipswich steamers dipped in clam broth and melted butter. They also line up at The Clam Box on Route 133, seeking just the right degree of crunch into the juicy fried clam. For some, summer is a box of Ipswich fried clams.

Destination: Ipswich

Map of the Ipswich River

Ipswich boasts a proud history that’s still evident against a beautiful, rugged landscape. By Tasmin Venn

Ipswich wears its history casually, and so do its people; no one thinks twice about driving over the Choate Bridge, built in 1764, the oldest stone arch bridge in the U.S., to dine on a burger and sip an Ipswich Ale at the Choate Bridge Pub. Story has it that the bridge’s engineer, Colonel John Choate, watched the opening ceremonies while mounted on a fast horse so he could make a quick escape in the event of a collapse. The bridge was a major shift from earlier wood structures. It—and Choate’s name—has stood ever since.

But the bridge isn’t the only structure that’s been here for centuries. Head down High Street and you’ll pass a parade of 17th-century houses. Ipswich has more “First Period” pre-1725 homes than any town in the country—about 60 in all. All are lived in, and pride in home and hearth—many of which you can walk into—makes the designation of an historic district unnecessary. Farther along is the Old Burying Ground with headstones dating to 1634; on the way is the site of the home of America’s first poet, Anne Bradstreet, who wrote about the transition from English civilization to New World wilds. On East Street is the former home of Pulitzer Prize-winning author John Updike, whose novel Couples tells about Ipswich spouses with too much time on their hands. In between sits the former house of American painter Arthur Wesley Dow, who ran his very own Ipswich Summer School of Art.

Stop by the Ipswich Inn for a delicious breakfast and pick up a recorded historic walking tour of High Street and beyond by Olde Ipswich Tours. On the way out to Crane Beach, you’ll pass the Whipple House (1677), one of New England’s oldest houses, and the John Heard House, a stately Federal mansion, both part of the Ipswich Museum. Up on Town Hill stands the plaque proudly pointing out that in 1687, Ipswich refused to pay taxes without representation, long before the Boston Tea Party. Across the street marks the spot where the devil left his footprints in the rocks after he jumped from the North Church’s high steeple, driven by fright from the sermon that day.

“What makes Ipswich special is the richness of the historic stock,” says Cindy Brockway, the program director of culture resources for all Trustees of Reservations properties. “I don’t know any other town as deep and rich as Ipswich is.”

But Ipswich has much more than history. For instance, nearly half the town’s 33 square miles is open space. “The town’s open space program has been very successful,” notes Kristen Grubbs, Open Space Program Manager. The Trustees of Reservations, Willowdale State Forest, and the south end of Plum Island make up that bulk, but the town, its businesses, and citizens have been very active in conserving any available land.  The most recent addition is a lovely mile-long walk up Turkey Hill. “I think what Ipswich has been able to do with town support has been unique,” she adds.

Wide Open Spaces

 

“[Ipswich’s] ongoing history of concerned citizen participation is unique, especially preserving and protecting its environment with the Open Space Preservation Act and the Great Estates By-Law,” says Ingrid Miles, former Chairman of the Board of Selectman.

Long-time resident Alicia Moore says: “Ipswich is one of the largest towns in the county, from the shores of the Atlantic to the shores of Hood’s Pond, with miles of hiking and biking trails in between. There’s wilderness in woods, and in the vast expanse of salt marsh…So much is undeveloped but dependent on a watchful citizenry pretty much aware of what could easily be lost.”

Crane Beach and Castle Hill are the jewels in the crown, thanks to preservation efforts by The Trustees of Reservations, but Appleton Farms, Greenwood Farm, Maplecroft Farm, Willowdale State Forest, and the 500-acres Essex County Greenbelt all provide good places for a pensive walk. You can also horseback ride, mountain bike, jog, kayak, sail, or canoe. The smaller gems, like the 60-acre Julia Bird Reservation, the Sidney Shurcliff Walk, or the EBSCO Bridge, offer strolling access to the Ipswich River. The Ipswich Yacht Club has overnight guest moorings in Plum Island Sound and a great youth summer sailing camp.

The town of 13,000 people has the mills powered by the Ipswich River to thank for diversity. Ipswich Hosiery Mill opened in 1868 and drew Irish, French-Canadians, Polish, and Greeks to work there. The mill closed in 1928 and the buildings were used first by General Electric and now EBSCO Publishing. Today, buildings continue to recycle themselves. LaSalette Shrine became Turner Hill, which is complete with an 18-hole championship golf course. The Proctor turned into New England Biolabs. Appleton Farms, one of the oldest continuously operating farms in the U.S., is able to survive in part by community-supported agriculture. Mercury Brewing will move into a renovated brick shoe tannery downtown and start a brew pub and tours. Castle Hill excavated its cistern to water the newly replanted white pine and Norway spruce on the Grand Allee.

What is it about Ipswich? William Wasserman, the former publisher of the Ipswich-based North Shore Weeklies, says,  “First, geography—beach, forests, rivers, clams, oysters,” he says. “Second, people—Ipswich has a good mix. Some commuters, some local artists, some strictly local folks who can make a living in town, some Democrats and some Republicans, good schools, and intense interest in local government. [Ipswich] is not a snobby town.”

Ipswich is also replete with beautiful views, but undoubtedly the best view in town is from the top of Castle Hill—which is also a popular wedding venue. While the Great House, the mansion Richard Crane built in the 1920s, is the most popular venue and can accommodate the most wedding guests, the Casino, Barn, and Steep Hill Beach are also popular. Laura Daley, event manager for the Crane estate, revels in couples’ first views of the Grand Allee, the half-mile-long lawn designed by Ipswich landscape architect Arthur Shurcliffe that sweeps down the hill to a cutout view of the Isles of Shoals. She says, “We have had people come in and stand in the door, their jaws agape, going ‘Wow.’”

Those not getting married can still enjoy the grounds when summer is in full swing: Thursday night concerts start at Castle Hill in July, with grounds open for picnicking on the Grand Allee at 5 p.m.

The Details

Date of Settlement: 1633. Date of Incorporation: 1634. Zip Code: 01938. Population: 13,175. Total Area: 33 square miles. Median house-hold income: $57,284. Schools: Paul F. Doyon and Winthrop Elementary Schools, Ipswich Middle and High School. Notable residents: John Updike (author), Anne Bradstreet (poet), Simon Bradstreet (governor), Arthur Wesley Dow (painter), Ed Emberly (children’s drawing book author), Dennis Eckersley (Hall-of-Fame pitcher), David Briggs (organist), Melissa Ferrick (musician), Arthur Shurcliff (landscape architect)

Travel To Danvers

The witchcraft Victims’ Memorial in a quiet corner of Danvers is one of those blink-and-you’ll-miss-it historic sites, but it bears witness to one of the darkest chapters in early American history. “Burn me or hang me,” reads a quotation attributed to George Jacobs, one of 25 people who died as a result of the 1692 Salem Village Witchcraft Hysteria, “but I will stand in the truth of Christ. I know nothing of witchcraft.”

Located at 176 Hobart Street, directly opposite the original site of the Meeting House, where most of the witchcraft examinations took place, the simple and poignant granite memorial provides an unbreakable link between the Danvers of today and the Salem Village of a bygone age. The “new” Salem may have secured the bragging rights to its infamous Witch Trials, but it’s the old Salem Village—which changed its name to Danvers in a district restructure in 1752—where the fear and hysteria first broke out and led to the deaths of 25 men and women, all of whom proclaimed their innocence to the end.

The Witchcraft Victim's Memorial

“It earned Salem Village a very bad reputation, which it carried for generations,” says Danvers Town Archivist Richard Trask. “So, when the District of Danvers was created in 1752, the people of Salem Village were very happy to lose that name.”

Time is also a great healer, and while the witchcraft spotlight is now set on Salem, Danvers has come to accept and commemorate its history in a quiet, respectful way.

“Danvers doesn’t yell about its witchcraft heritage,” says Trask. “Our sites are not big, flashy tourist attractions, and when people visit, they like the fact that we don’t make it into a money-making situation.”

Anyone with even a passing interest in history and architecture will love Danvers, a hard-working and steadfast town that has carefully preserved many significant houses and buildings dating back to the earliest settlement of Massachusetts. The historic district, stretching from Pine Street in the south to Maple Street in the north, contains eight important sites—including the beautiful Rebecca Nurse Homestead (circa 1678) and magnificent Glen Magna Farms estate (circa 1798)—all of which are open to the public seasonally or by appointment with the Danvers Historical Society. Another 125 notable private residences spanning four centuries can be viewed easily from the street.

Arguably the finest building in downtown is the Peabody Institute Library (see “Crown Jewel”), built in 1892 with money donated by native son George Peabody. Located next to Mill Pond in Sylvan Street, this outstanding Georgian Revival building bears a striking resemblance to the White House and has been used as its substitute in a number of films and documentaries.

While Danvers embraces its past—“We take our history very seriously,” says Town Manager Wayne Marquis—all eyes are on an increasingly bright future with a strong focus on education, employment, and family values. More than $250 million is being pumped into education projects alone, with renovations and additions to Danvers High School and North Shore Community College, not to mention the anticipated merger between the renowned Essex Agricultural and Technical High School and North Shore and Peabody Vocational Technical schools.

MGH has invested $100 million in a new outpatient care facility here, and several other major employers, including Osram Sylvania, are helping to fuel employment, growth, and confidence. With two industrial parks, three malls, a thousand hotel rooms, numerous car dealerships, dentists, cosmetic surgeons, restaurants, and small businesses, Danvers appears to be riding out today’s economic uncertainties.

“We have a diverse commercial and industrial base,” says Marquis. “We’re a fiscally conservative town, paying our way as we go and operating within budget. We don’t have all of our eggs in one basket.”

Community spirit also runs high. The town rallied after a chemical explosion in 2006, raising $500,000 in private donations for those who lost their homes, and a new summer program called Project Sunshine launched last year to assist homeless families in the community. It’s a far cry from the dark days of the Salem Village Witchcraft Hysteria, but like those defiant souls who went to their deaths defending their innocence, the people of Danvers don’t take anything lying down.

Salem may be the witch-kitsch capital of the world, but Danvers is the real deal—and not a broomstick or pointy hat in sight.

The Details - Date of Settlement: 1637. Date of Incorporation: 1757. Zip code: 01923. Population: 26,493. Total Area: 13.5 square miles. Median household income: $58,779. Schools: St. John’s Prep; Holten Richmond Middle School; Danvers High School; Essex Agricultural & Technical High School. Notable residents: John Endicott, first Governor of Massachusetts; Rebecca Nurse, hanged for witchcraft; John Greenleaf Whittier, poet; Mark Bavaro, former New York Giants tight end; Erin McLean, Jeopardy! winner.

Crown Jewel - The Peabody Institute Library is guardian to some of the rarest books in America

Peabody Institute Library

Danvers may not shout about its witchcraft heritage, but it does everything in its power to preserve and protect it. For the past 40 years, town archivist Richard Trask has been acquiring, documenting, and safeguarding the Brehaut Witchcraft Collection—the world’s largest compendium of imprints relating to the 1692 Salem Village Witchcraft Hysteria—keeping it under lock and key in downtown’s imposing Peabody Institute Library.

“The witchcraft is our crown jewel,” he says, with more than a hint of pride. “It’s what gives us notoriety around the country, and we have a complete collection here being preserved for future generations.”

Stored in a humidity-controlled vault in the library’s Archival Center, the collection includes rare books, manuscripts, and imprints documenting the witchcraft era and dating back to the 17th century, as well as other precious items, including two original copies of the Declaration of Independence. While the collection isn’t on public display, Trask has shared its contents with many documentary makers, writers, and scholars. He is currently working with Pulitzer Prize-winning author Stacy Schiff, who is researching a new book on Salem witchcraft.

 

On the Town -There’s a lot to discover in Danvers

Glen Magna Farms This beautiful estate was first occupied in the 1790s. It was  bought in 1814 by wealthy Salem shipping merchant Capt. Joseph Peabody and later embellished by his granddaughter, Ellen Peabody Endicott. The mansion and gardens recall the golden age of American architecture. Ingersoll Street, 978-774-9165. Derby Summer House Tucked away in the grounds of Glen Magna, Derby Summer House is a delightful Federal-style garden house built in 1794 for wealthy Salem merchant Elias Hasket Derby and moved here in 1901. The house has a walled rose garden designed by Herbert Browne. 978-777-1666. Rebecca

Treats at Cakes for Occasions

Nurse Homestead Little has changed here since Rebecca Nurse was hanged on charges of witchcraft in 1692. The estate, now owned by the Danvers Alarm List Company, an 18th-century reenactment group, consists of her original home, the cemetery where she is believed to be buried, and a recreation of the Salem Village Meeting House. 149 Pine Street, 978-774-8799. Putnam House Twelve generations of Putnams lived in this elegant house (circa 1648), including Joseph, who famously spoke out against the Witchcraft Hysteria in 1692. Its best-known resident was General Israel Putnam, who commanded the troops at the Battle of Bunker Hill. 431 Maple Street, 978-777-1666. 

 

Cakes for Occasions Nationally acclaimed pastry chef Kelly Delaney is best known for her custom-made wedding and special occasion cakes, but her store also offers an array of scrumptious buttercream-frosted cupcakes, European-style tarts and pastries, and other lip-smacking treats. 57 Maple Street, 978-774-4545, cakes4occasions.com. 9 Elm American Bistro Chef Matt Sanidas continues to wow diners at his beloved bistro. Enjoy a specialty martini or local craft beer before tucking into a succulent filet mignon or pan-seared scallops with truffle-whipped potato. 9 Elm Street, 978-774-9436. Cherry Farm Creamery A Danvers institution since 1976, this fun creamery serves 30 flavors of ice creams, as well as low-fat soft serve, frozen yogurts, ice cream cakes, sorbets, and other family favorites. 210 Conant Street, 978-774-0519. Danversport Yacht Club The lively yacht club is a great spot for a relaxed lunch or dinner during summer months. The welcoming Grille and Bistro serves good food, and the breezy outdoor patio overlooks manicured gardens, the harbor, and marina. 161 Elliott Street, 978-774-8621. 7 Grill The new kid on the Danvers dining scene has lucky number 7 as its signature theme, but it doesn’t need any luck serving up premium-quality meats and seafood that are deliciously seasoned and fresh from the grill. 194 Endicott Street, 978-646-9911.

 

Destination: Manchester, NH

Spectators at the Currier Museum of Art

New Hampshire’s largest city might not always be its prettiest, but Manchester’s artistic side sparkles beneath the mill-town grit. It boasts a world-renowned art museum, historic theater, and two Frank Lloyd Wright houses, including the only one in New England that’s open to the public. Manchester is embracing its industrial roots by giving its historic mill district new life with trendy restaurants, cool condos, and quirky museums. It has also been called one of the country’s best places to live. One visit and you’ll see why.

Stay Choosing accommodations in the heart of downtown will let you get a feel for this historic city. For a cozily refined weekend, try the Ash Street Inn, a Victorian-era B&B with private bathrooms and made-to-order breakfasts. Afternoon tea and special packages with the Currier Museum of Art (which is next door) are also on offer. 118 Ash St., 603-668-9908. Stay in the heart of the Millyard District at the Hilton Garden Inn Manchester Downtown to find Jacuzzi rooms and seasonal outdoor dining at The Patio Restaurant. 101 South Commercial St., 603-669-2222. The Bedford Village Inn, a 10-minute drive from downtown, offers opulent suites, gorgeous pastoral grounds, and three restaurants, including the elegant BVI Restaurant. 2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 603-472-1166.

Eat With six straight years of Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence under its belt, Hanover Street Chophouse is a classic upscale steakhouse that’s consistently voted among New Hampshire’s best restaurants. Choose from dry-aged cuts of beef, local seafood, and other specialties for lunch or dinner, or a three-course prix-fixe Sunday menu. 149 Hanover St., 603-644-2467. Known for its retro vibe and sophisticated cocktails, Cotton brings downtown cool to the Millyard. Dishes like retro meatloaf and almond-crusted turkey schnitzel jazz up classic comfort food. 75 Arms St., 603-622-5488. Tapas, sushi, and steak are on the menu at the fusion-style Mint Bistro. The large wine list includes sake and various reserve bottles. 1105 Elm St., 603-625-6468.

See The Currier Museum of Art is the jewel in the Queen City’s crown, with about 12,000 pieces of modern, European, American, and decorative art. 150 Ash St., 603-669-6144. One of its most impressive holdings is the Zimmerman House, the only Frank Lloyd Wright house in New England open to the public. The house is only accessible via Currier tours, which take visitors inside and outside the Usonian-style masterpiece that’s still furnished with Wright-designed pieces from the 1950s and ‘60s. At the historic Palace Theatre, catch a show—Chicago (March 23-April 14) and Legally Blonde: The Musical (May 4-May 19) are on stage this spring—or a performance by the New Hampshire Philharmonic (April 28). 80 Hanover St., 603-668-5588.

Destination Georgetown

With fewer than 10,000 residents, Georgetown is nonetheless a bustling village with big-town offerings.

In the rural yet humming enclave of Georgetown, the fire department’s noon whistle sounds daily. You can sit on a stool at the local hangout, Jimmy K’s, for lunch and see your friends. You can haul your junk to Mello’s, and they’ll take it. You don’t have to go the mall to get your nails done—instead, go to LeBa’s Nails on Central Street—or shop for a discount wedding dress (for that, there’s Tulle Bridal Designer Outlet on West Main Street). Then there’s Crosby’s market, which provides “on the go” homemade soups and salads, plus wine and beer tastings.

This small New England village was incorporated in 1883, when those living in the West Parish broke away from Rowley and established their own town. Farming, shoemaking, and sawmills all helped Georgetown grow and prosper. It’s a town full of handsome 19th-century wood clapboard houses lining back roads with names like Elm, Maple, Winter, Brook, and Pingree Farm. Georgetown is easily accessible; Routes 97 and 133 cut through east/west and north/south on the way to Andover, Boxford, Haverhill, Rowley, or Newbury. It’s a short hop to I-495 or I-95 to Boston or New Hampshire. Push the walk button at the traffic light on Main and Central Streets, and people zooming by on their way to somewhere else happily stop for you.

“Georgetown is finally recognized as a diamond in the rough,” says Steve Horne, a 25-year resident. “The rural setting [that is] a half hour to most anywhere—Boston, Portsmouth, the beaches, the malls—and a couple of hours or less to the mountains has made it a gem for rural living.”

One of the great things about Georgetown is that townspeople pitch in to make the town tick. The “Bob committee” runs Camp Denison (the majority of members happens to be named Bob, hence its name) with a host of 25 enthusiastic volunteers. “Without the volunteers, Camp Denison would not exist,” says Bob Gorton, who has lived here for nearly 50 years. Camp Denison on Baldpate Pond, established in 1931 as an inner city camp, includes the Great Lodge where Amelia Earhart once scanned the skies from its rooftop and Aldo Leopold developed nature programs.

In Georgetown, retirees stick around to take their grandchildren to sports practice and volunteer to keep the town going. Adding to the hometown feel is the fact Georgetown has its own schools, as well as its own electric company, so you won’t lose power for very long during an outage.

 

“[Georgetown] has grown from a fairly insular town to one that is very open, hip, and fun,” says Donna Capodelupo, news editor for the Georgetown Record. Funky old stores, like Meader’s General Store, which sells both antiques and penny candy, wouldn’t survive Main Street America in most towns, but this town appreciates antiques. Take Sedler’s Antiques as an example (see “On The Town”). The Historical Society, lead by Chris Komiskey, sits proudly in the Brocklebank-Nelson-Beecher House, first built in 1668 and later bought in 1858 by Rev. Charles Beecher, brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of Uncle Tom’s Cabin.

Outdoor activities abound in Georgetown. It has two ponds, Rock and Pentucket, the latter of which has the town beach. The Black Swan Country Club has one of the best public golf courses on the North Shore. Residents enjoy strolling through the Georgetown Rowley State Forest, which connects to the Boxford State Forest and goes for miles. Georgetown Fish and Game has its own clubhouse on Pentucket Pond.

History is alive and well here, too. The original cannon “Old Nancy,” taken from a British ship off Cape Ann in the Revolutionary War (and allegedly stolen from Rowley in the early 19th century), is on display in the Town Hall basement. The Erie 4 Fire Company, established in 1854, is the oldest privately owned and operated volunteer fire company in the country; it stays solvent through inventive fundraisers.

Janet Pantano, administrative assistant to the Board of Selectmen, moved here decades ago for the “small town feel” of the place that has only 100 kids in the graduating high school class and where everyone can play on a team if they want. Church fairs, ham and bean suppers, parades—that’s why she’s here.

Georgetown has a lot to be proud of—and for residents to enjoy—in this laid-back-but-happening town.

The Details: Date of Settlement: 1639 Date of Incorporation: 1838 Zip Code: 01833 Population: 8,183 Total Area: 13.2 square miles Median Household Income: $76,260 Schools: Perley and Penn Brook Elementary Schools, Georgetown Middle-High School. Notable Residents: Brian St. Pierre (football player), Jenny Thompson (U.S. Olympic swimmer), Terry O’Reilly (hockey player), John Updike (author), Paul Harding (author), Charles Beecher (brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe).

The Black Swan Country Club

In the Club – The run-down Georgetown Country Club experiences a rebirth as the Black Swan Two years ago, the fairways at the old Georgetown Country Club were overgrown. The restaurant and function rooms were quiet, the parking lot empty. In June 2010, the venue reopened as the Black Swan Country Club, and all that changed.

The club’s new ownership renovated the 18-hole par-72 golf course and brought back the manicured grounds. Today, patrons can buy range balls in the pro shop and sharpen their short game on the practice green. Two PGA golfers offer careful instruction.

The off-season in January and February is one of the best times to dine at the award-winning Keon’s Grille, which is open to the public. The grille menu is offered daily for lunch and dinner, except Mondays. Friday and Saturday night a live band performs. The Sunday brunch with music by local singer Dan Sky is extremely popular. In summer, the outdoor patio near the 18th hole is a big draw, but in January, Keon’s owner Alan Boisvert offers specials to lure diners.

With revamped function spaces, weddings are booked through 2014, but in slower months, function rooms host comedy, music, and dance events for the public.  Things are looking up at the Black Swan and in Georgetown,  which now has something new and special to offer. 258 Andover St., 978-352-2900, blackswancountryclub.com

The essential stops for your Georgetown visit.

Sedler’s Village Antiques Owners Bob and Pat Sedler have added gleaming American-made wood furniture, some of which Bob designs himself, to their dazzling array of antiques, collectables, vintage clothes, lamps, jewelry, dolls, and more. Located in a rambling 1860 Victorian farmhouse, Sedler’s was one of the North Shore’s first antique co-ops. There is so much here, it’s hard to describe everything, so it’s best to go look for yourself. Pat says her husband insists on being open seven days a week, so you can drop by anytime. 51 W. Main St., 978-352-8282, sedlersvillage.com.

Rory O'Connor's Irish Pub

Instant Replays Most kids (and their feet) grow so fast that their soccer shoes and ski boots are still like new before they no longer fit. That’s what Todd Newton counts on as he resells used athletic equipment, including mountain bikes, snowboards, basketball shirts, and even pogo sticks, all in good condition (he’s picky) and at great prices. Post Office Building, 64 Central St., 978-768-7541.

Pentucket Pond The pond is stocked every spring with rainbow trout and sometimes browns and brookies, as well as largemouth bass. The Georgetown Fish and Game Club holds an annual ice fishing derby, but if you’re not into fishing, the skating is just fine. 11 Lake Ave., 978-352-9831, georgetownfishandgame.com.

Rory O’Connor’s Irish Pub Come for the traditional Irish pub food—Guinness beef stew, fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, chicken curry, and homemade bread pudding—plus a fire in the big stone hearth and live Irish music Tuesday and Sunday. You’ll think you’re back in Galway, which is just how new owner Mike Beatty wants it. 19 W. Main St., 978-769-5053, roryoconnorsishpub.com.

Georgetown-Rowley State Park Watch the woods fill up with snow as you cross-country ski or snowshoe through a winter wonderland. Bring your dog: This 1,112-acre forest provides plenty of trees and trails to keep him busy. Pingree Farm Road, 978-887-5931. mass.gov/dcr/parks/northeast/grow.htm.

Nunan Florist and Greenhouses This 86-year-old greenhouse grows thousands of its own plants in 20 greenhouses that owners Bill Guerrini and Steve Flynn—along with no fewer than five floral designers and expert horticulturalists—tend to with TLC. 269 Central St. (Route 97), 978-352-8179, nunans.com.

Pratt Hobby Shop Pratt’s has managed to stay afloat for 35 years, offering all things fast–Traxxas racing trucks (zero to 60 mph in 4.2 seconds!), sailboats, and remote- control airplanes. It also hosts remote-control races and offers model airplane flying lessons. 20 E. Main St., 800-870-4068, pratthobbyshop.com.

Twisdenwood Horse Farm Jill Bowden offers lessons for children and adults, beginner to advanced, using the farm’s  four roomy barns, three riding rings (one indoor), and open grass hacking track. Tally ho! 240 Andover St., 978-314-8258, twisdenwoodfarm.com

Travel Boston

With world-class museums, shops, restaurants, hotels, and historical sites galore, Boston is a dream destination in our own backyard.

When planning a respite from reality, most of us tend to think that we have to go far away to get away. Fortunately for folks on the North Shore, when we want a quick break without the hassle of a long-haul journey, a short drive down I-93 (or a train ride, if you want to skip the stress of parking) places us square in the center of one of America’s most intriguing towns.

Stay Boston boasts an impressive array of hotels. The Taj and Four Seasons, both celeb favorites, are set at the edge of the Public Garden, steps from Newbury Street shopping. Taj Boston, 15 Arlington St., 617-536-5700, tajhotels.com/boston; Four Seasons Hotel Boston, 200 Boylston St., 617-338-4400, fourseasons.com/boston. The Mandarin Oriental on Boylston Street is home to the posh eatery Asana and an otherworldly spa. 776 Boylston St., 617-531-0888, mandarinoriental.com/boston. The boutique Beacon Hill Hotel is situated on tree-lined Charles Street and is home to a cozy bistro that’s a neighborhood favorite for brunch. 25 Charles St., 617-723-7575, beaconhillhotel.com.

Eat Boston’s South End is rife with excellent restaurants, and Coppa is no exception with its homemade pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and innovative sea- and land-inspired bites. 253 Shawmut Ave., 617-391-0902, coppaboston.com. Fans of food TV won’t want to miss Chopped alum Chris Coombs’s swank Deuxave, which marries the “nouvelle techniques of contemporary French cuisine with American ingredients.” 371 Commonwealth Ave., 617-517-5915, deuxave.com. Boston is synonymous with seafood, and Island Creek Oyster Bar is not only the city’s newest seafood spot, but arguably its best. Lobster rolls, chowder, raw bar items, and creative fare—like lobster roe noodles and bacon-wrapped monkfish—are major draws. 500 Commonwealth Ave., 617-532-5300, islandcreekoysterbar.com.

See Break from your outdoor pursuits with Metropolitan Tea  at The Langham, Boston. Served daily from 3 p.m. until 5 p.m. at BOND restaurant/lounge, the menu includes scones and sandwiches, plus decadent sweets that make the $30 price tag seem modest. 250 Franklin St., 617-451-1900, boston.langhamhotels.com. The Boston Opera House’s 2012 schedule is packed with high-brow productions, like Green Day’s American Idiot (January 24-29) and Les Misérables (March 13-April 1). 539 Washington St., 617-259-3400, bostonoperahouse.com. For something hands-on, head to the Boston Center for Adult Education, which offers one-time classes and workshops in everything from cooking and baking to drawing and dance. Take one class and you’re sure to sign up for more. 122 Arlington St., 617-267-4430, bcae.org.

Winter Getaways

Before we know it winter will be at our door and we will be curling up with hot chocolate and a warm blanket to avoid the bitterness of each winter season brings. Although there is nothing like crackling fireplaces, the holiday atmosphere or the first snowfall, many people in New England tend to flock to warmer climates this time of year. But any snow enthusiast can tell you that there is no better place to spend winter than in New England. Not only is the scenery beautiful, but the array of ski resorts offer everything from family fun to a romantic getaway. Whether you are a ski-bunny or prefer to relax in the spa, we did some digging and found two of the best spots to visit this winter.

Red Jacket Mountain View Resort, located in North Conway, New Hampshire caters to visitors of all ages. After completing a multimillion dollar renovation, the resort re-opened 150 newly designed guest rooms. Perched on hill-top in the heart of Mount Washington Valley, the new rooms feature overstuffed lounge chairs, antique gold wall coverings and colors that provide a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

The resort offers festive events, live entertainment and is home to the Kahuna Laguna, a 40,000 square-foot indoor water park. Named in the “Top 10 U.S. Water Parks” by TripAdvisor, Kahuna Laguna features an 82-degree tropical oasis. Kids can enjoy the Wiki Wave Pool and can go down slides and over rope bridges on the Bamboo Bay Adventure Tower. Add in a 25-foot whirlpool, Tiki Tade Café and Aloha Arcade and you a complete water park experience at your fingertips.

If you want to head to the slopes then take advantage of the Ski & Stay packages that include passes to Cranmore Mountain. Located only 1.5 miles from the resort, guests can ski and snowboard at any level.

After you leave the mountain there is nothing better than treating your body to some pampering at the resort spa. Offering over 30 different services, men, women and teens have the opportunity to be pampered and melt away into a complete state of relaxation.

Red Jacket has a ton to offer, add in the breath taking views, it is no wonder why Red Jacket is a premier spot for weddings and celebrations. The staff focuses on every finite detail to make sure that guests will talk about their experience for weeks to come.

Enjoy a classical winter tradition as you and family members take a Sleigh Ride through resort property. Starting December 1st and ending December 31st guests can enjoy this experience in one of the most unique parts of New Hampshire. If you want to get into the holiday spirit, but sleigh rides are not for you, head to the Settler’s Green shopping outlets where you can splurge on a loved one, or yourself! Whether it is a family vacation or a getaway for two, there is plenty to do and see at Red Jacket Mountain View Resort. From the shopping to the dining and everything in between, it will be hard not to enjoy yourself and leave smiling. For more information visit www.redjacketresorts.com/mountain-view-resort.php

 

Sunday River is one of the top places for skiing when it comes to New England. Located in Newry, Maine, Sunday River will be investing four million dollars to improve their snowmaking, grooming and lifts, road maintenance, and two new real estate developments. One of these new real estate developments will offer ski-in/ski-out single home lots, a first for the resort. Sunday River also recently created a 75-acre Blind Ambition gladed trail. What better way to show off your skills than to head down the largest gladed tree-skiing area at the resort?

With all of the improvements and new developments there is more to see than ever, but don’t worry about over crowding. With the expansions, Sunday River has also renovated the South Ride Base Lodge, which now includes a Korean Food Court option: Cho Cun, more seating outside, more storage for bags and equipment and a newly combined Sunday River Sports Ski Shop and Sunday Session Board Shop.

Bring your equipment or rent it there, make sure you are prepared with everything you need for a day on the mountain. Sunday River offers numerous slope options ranging on skill level, and for those who are looking to get the most out of their day, 12-Hour Skiing and Riding is the ultimate way. If you love snow but want a slower pace then take advantageof the Cross-Country Skiing and Snowshoeing options. Guests can venture through trails in some of the most gorgeous forests in Maine. Other activities include Dog Sledding tour, Snow Tubing and Ice Skating, just to name a few.

When taking part in all of the activities on and off the mountain it is tough not to work up an appetite. If you happen to find yourself looking for an extravagant post-skiing meal, then ride the Chonodola to the top of the mountain for ‘Dining at the Peak.” A fine dining experience that starts off with champagne of fresh blueberries, ‘Dining at the Peak’ is the perfect spot for a wonderful , unique meal accompanied by an amazing view. But if you are looking for a quick stop so you can get back on the slopes then Sunday River has over 15 options to choose from, of which will satisfy your hunger.

Take advantage of the numerous activities or relax in the lodge or spa for the day, Sunday River has something for everyone and this season is about to be the best yet. For more information visit sundayriver.com

History In Lynnfield

Lynnfield Common

Just inside the stone gateway to Lynnfield’s Old Burying Ground, which dates back to 1728, is a tombstone flanked by two Stars and Stripes. It’s a simple, almost nondescript memorial, but it bears the names of—and a direct link to—one of the most important moments in American history.

“Here lie Soldiers of the Revolution” reads the epitaph, followed by an honor roll of 10 men who made the ultimate sacrifice in defense of town and country. Halfway down the list is Daniel Townsend, one of 49 killed on April 19, 1775, but the most fascinating of all is Martin Herrick, who met Paul Revere and gave the famous “The British are coming!” alarm in the other direction.

Had Longfellow based his iconic poem on Herrick instead of Revere, Lynnfield (or South Lynn, as it was then) would be as famous as Boston, but this small and delightful town in Essex County is no less proud of the significant role it played.

History runs deep in Lynnfield, a leafy enclave 14 miles north of Boston at the juncture of Routes 1 and 128 and I-95, offering a fascinating insight into the earliest days of the colony, the town’s pivotal role in the American Revolution, and later as a safe haven in the Underground Railroad.

Nestled under ancient pines, oaks, and maples, landmark homes have been beautifully preserved. Some are on the National Register of Historic Places, many are named for the original families that built or lived in them, and almost all have elegant wall plates announcing their illustrious heritage.

Henfield House at 300 Main Street was built in 1667 and is the oldest in Lynnfield. Chestnut Street, which runs off Main, is lined with Colonial homes, such as Hart House (1695), Joseph Tapley’s House (1700), and James Reid House (ca. 1700).

The jewel in the crown, however, is a house of a different kind. The Old Meeting House, built in 1714, is thought to be the third-oldest Puritanical meeting house in New England and has pride of place on the historic Common in the center of town. Plans are already being drawn up for the 300th anniversary of the Meeting House in 2014, a double milestone for Lynnfield, which will also celebrate the 200th anniversary of its incorporation in 1814.

History is but a single thread in Lynnfield’s rich fabric. The town and surrounding area are swathed in natural beauty with several waterways including Suntaug Lake, Pillings Pond, and the nearby Walden Pond (a less-famous cousin of the one in Concord).

At 400 acres, Reedy Meadow covers almost a third of the town’s land and is one of the largest migratory bird sanctuaries in New England. Partridge Island Boardwalk, a recent initiative of Lynnfield Rotary, guides locals and visitors across Reedy Meadow’s delicate eco-system, while Bow Ridge Reservation to the south of Lynnfield has scenic walking trails for a weekend hike.

Lynnfield has three excellent golf courses, including the privately owned Sagamore Spring Golf Club, and many peaceful, beautiful settings for a walk or picnic. “Lynnfield has a lot to offer,” says Jay Kimball, president of Lynnfield Rotary and a fourth-generation lawyer who’s lived in the town all his life. “It still has the look and feel of a traditional New England country town. There’s a lot of great people and a real sense of community and civic pride.”

Lynnfield may be considered a “bedroom” community, but there’s nothing sleepy about this prosperous, progressive suburb. With five top schools, the education system consistently has some of the state’s best standardized test scores.

Increasing numbers of corporate executives, sports stars, and local celebrities are bringing new wealth to the town. Median house prices are around $546,000 and rising, with substantial homes lining many of the leafy streets and avenues, and Lynnfield’s proximity to Routes 1 and 128 and I-95 means fast and easy drive times in all directions.

A new “lifestyle center” called Market Street is planned for 2012 with upscale shops, restaurants, offices, and apartments. While some residents have worried it will take the “field” out of Lynnfield, the development has received widespread support. “It will change the nature of the town but will also revitalize it,” says Kimball. “We have to keep moving with the times.”

 

House Call Lynnfield’s Old Meeting House celebrates 300 years as a witness and a window to New England’s history. It seems fitting that Linda Gillon, a guide at the Old Meeting House, lives in Henfield House, the oldest home in Lynnfield. As vice president of the Lynnfield Historical Society, she knows better than most the importance of this unique icon.
Built in 1714 at the apex of the triangular Common, this simple but charming white-washed wood building is thought to be the third-oldest Puritan Meeting House in New England still standing on its original “green.”

Once a center for religious and political gatherings, the Meeting House has also acted as a town hall, primary school, and even a firehouse before being preserved by local historians for future generations.

While the downstairs is an open space, a popular venue for wedding receptions, the upstairs is both a witness and a window to history with original beams, old church pews, and a pulpit, creating a beautiful chapel-like atmosphere.

The Old Meeting House and Common are also the setting for Lynnfield’s annual Country Store (first Saturday in December) with stalls, Christmas decorations, carolers, and annual tree lighting ceremony. For a tour of the Meeting House, call Peggy Weickert, 781-334-4724.

Out to See Mustn’t-miss stops that make for the perfect stay in Lynnfield. 

Partridge Island Boardwalk This lovely boardwalk, a recent initiative of Lynnfield Rotary, links the town with historic Partridge Island in Reedy Meadow and takes you up close and personal with this fragile eco-system brimming with birdlife. It’s a great spot for a picnic. Access is off Main Street, opposite Heritage Lane.

Karen's Bakery

Bow Ridge Reservation Another of Lynnfield’s numerous conservation areas (south of the town), Bow Ridge Reservation has a network of scenic walking trails that’s ideal for a leisurely weekend ramble. Best access is off Ledge Road, Lynnbrook Road, or from the parking lot beside Bostonville Grille on Route 1.

Venezia Day Spa After all this exercise, it’s time to soothe those tired muscles with a relaxing massage at Venezia Day Spa, owned by Gayle Venezia of Danvers. Facials, manicures, pedicures, and an array of other treatments are also on the menu. 12 Salem Street, Kernwood Plaza, 781-224-3334, veneziadayspa.com.

Baubles Fine Jewelry Baubles, a boutique jewelry store owned by Tony and Donna Sharrio, specializes in fashion-forward, classic, and estate jewelry. The pieces are an eclectic mix of unique fine and faux pieces made in America. One Post Office Square, 781-592-6110, baublesfinejewelry.com.

Perley Burrill Filling Station The exact age of Perley Burrill Filling Station, just off Route 1 in Salem Street, is largely unknown, but it’s reputed to be the oldest gas station still operating in America. The building has seen better days, but it’s definitely worth a pit stop. 906 Salem Street.

Karen’s Bakery Don’t leave Lynnfield without dropping by Karen’s Bakery, established in 1958 and run by local character Dottie Wold, for a serving (or three) of her lip-smacking Cinnamon Monkey Bread. It’s a Lynnfield institution. 6 Center Court (behind 590 Main Street), 781-334-4579, karensbakery.webs.com.

Lynnfield Meat and Deli Another local character with a heart of gold is Ronnie Cerra, who owns Lynnfield Meat and Deli. He’s the go-to man for the best and freshest meats, cold cuts, fruit, veggies, and mouthwatering homemade calzones, pizzas, sausages, and marinades. 445 Broadway Rt. 1N, 781-593-6860, lynnfieldmeatanddeli.com.

Sagamore Spring Golf Club There’s a trio of courses in Lynnfield, but the best fairways are at the privately owned Sagamore Spring straddling both sides of upper Main Street. The 18-hole course has many challenging wetland features, so choose your clubs and approach shots carefully. 1287 Main Street, 781-334 3151, sagamoregolf.com.

Christine’s Cafe & Confections Pastry chef Christine Picariello has taken 30 years’ experience with top caterers and restaurants and put it into her own business, offering delicious muffins, cookies, brownies, cupcakes, croissants, scones, and quiches. Her lemon-blueberry scones are scrumptious. 618 Salem Street, 781-596-2259.

The Details. Date of Settlement: 1638. Date of Incorporation: 1814. Zip code: 01940. Population: 11,800. Total Area: 10.5 square miles. Median household income: $86,133. Schools: Huckleberry Hill School, Summer Street School, Lynnfield Middle School, Lynnfield High School, Our Lady of Assumption. Notable residents: Garnet “Ace” Bailey, former Bruins player and coach who died on 9/11; John Michael Williams, singer, songwriter, director, author; Sib Hashian, drummer formerly of the band Boston; Nancy Kerrigan, former Olympic skater; Billy Costa, Kiss 108 FM radio personality; Carl Yastrzemski, former Boston Red Sox outfielder; Tim Thomas, Boston Bruins goalie; Ken Harrelson, TV sports broadcaster.

Visit Southern Vermont This Fall

Southern Vermont’s collection of 15 towns and villages is the ideal destination for a quintessential New England autumn escape.

Looking to take in the colors of the season? Head up to Vermont’s southwest region, commonly know as Bennington County, but recently dubbed the Shires. Here, visitors can enjoy hiking, car shows, antiquing, apple and pumpkin picking, crafts fairs, farm dinners, museums, gondola rides, covered bridges, and more.

Stay At the end of a Vermont country road awaits a slice of heaven called the Windham Hill Inn, the sister property of Kennebunkport’s White Barn Inn. Although the region beckons visitors to explore it, once they’ve checked into the Windham Hill Inn, they won’t want to venture far from the property, with its 21 elegantly appointed rooms and charming innkeeper, Katya. A sprawling 160 acres of unspoiled land surround the exquisitely renovated farmhouse and barn, the perfect place for a romantic getaway. Here, you will want to linger over the Sunday paper, sit on your deck sipping hot cider and sampling homemade confections, and marvel at millions of colorful leaves as they dance in the breeze. 311 Lawrence Drive, West Townshend, 802-874-4080.

 

Windham Hill Inn's pool at sunset

 

Eat It’s easy to see why All Days and Onions is a popular spot. A blend of delicious aromas wafts through the place, making it difficult for patrons to pick just one item from the menu. Breakfast—the French toast, in particular—is a great way to dig in, but be sure to sample something decadent from the in-house bakery before you leave. 519 Main Street, Bennington, 802-447-0043. Drive directly to darling Dorset Village and dine at Mio Bistro (reservations are helpful). Chef Leo Ledoux creates masterpieces from scratch every day using whole organic foods. Patrons’ favorites include the red snapper and the Tuscan veggie pizza, which you can grab on the go. 3239 Route 30, Dorset, 802-231-2530. In Manchester Village, the Reluctant Panther offers sumptuous gourmet cuisine. There, small bites like roasted beets and homemade ricotta share space on the menu with hearty entrees like a fennel-crusted rack of lamb, all of which showcase the restaurant’s commitment to celebrating Continental cuisine with panache. Plus, mountain and creek views add to the dining experience. 39 West Road, Manchester Village, 802-362-2568.

See Visit Hildene, the home of Robert Todd Lincoln, son of President Abraham Lincoln and Mary Todd Lincoln, in Manchester. The gracious Georgian revival mansion is set on 412 preserved acres of gorgeous Vermont landscape. Enjoy the gardens, trails, and woods as you learn about the Lincoln family legacy. 940 Hildene Road, Manchester, 802-362-1788. Stop by Grafton Village, one of the most picturesque villages in Vermont, which is home to restored buildings, shops, galleries, and museums. Check out the Grafton Village Cheese Shop, where visitors can watch as cheddar cheese is made. Grab a wedge and a bottle of wine and enjoy a picnic by a covered bridge. graftonvermont.org. Discover the magic of Vermont’s Fall Sampler Tours. Leave the more well-known trails behind and enjoy instead an intimate narrated tour off the beaten path. Discover the area’s history and hidden treasures, like an abandoned marble quarry, a working alpaca farm, or local artisans’ studios. Tours meet at Adams Park, located at 5080 Main Street, every day from 1 p.m. until 4 p.m. 802-362-4997.

Good Harbor

Gloucester has evolved from strictly a fishing hub to a center of culture. 

“I don’t know if there’s another place that has all that Gloucester has,” says Joe Ciaramitaro, creator of the acclaimed blog Good Morning Gloucester and co-owner of Captain Joe and Sons Wholesale Lobster Company.

Dating back to the early 1600s, when Gloucester became the first settlement of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, this town by the sea quickly became the center of the fishing industry. Home of America’s original seaport and the oldest working art colony in North America, Gloucester was previously a one-dimensional fishing town. The waterfront town has since diversified into a tourist and travel destination rich with art, culture, music, food, and a strong sense of community.

The fishing and tourism industries have become a symbiotic duo here, drawing people from all over the world to experience Gloucester’s cultural riches and acclaimed restaurants. It all started about 14 years ago with what is known to locals as the “Restaurant Renaissance,” which welcomed a plethora of esteemed eateries. Soon following the restaurants was the barrage of coffee shop and museum openings to caffeinate and stimulate the masses, along with these other opportunities that make Gloucester unique.

For breakfast, pop into Pleasant Street Tea Company in the morning for a selection of fresh-baked goods on top of their uber-tasty organic coffees, over 100 varieties of tea, and freshly pressed juices and smoothies. For a fruitful historical experience, the Gloucester Maritime Heritage Center takes you back into the prevalent fishing times with hands-on activities and aquarium touch tanks.  At downtown Gloucester’s famous waterfront, you can embark on a once-in-a-lifetime whale watching experience aboard the 7 Seas Whale Watch, or hop onboard the schooner Thomas E. Lannon for a sail while listening to tales of fisherman Thomas Lannon’s adventures at sea—one of which includes the infamous Gloucester Sea Serpent.

The abundant offerings don’t stop there. Located on Rogers Street overlooking the boat-filled harbor, the Minglewood Tavern has a variety of mouth-watering pizzas and calzones, oven-roasted favorites, and an eclectic music scene. In warmer months, stick your toes in the sand at one of Gloucester’s 10 beautiful beaches. If you feel like taking in the scene with a leisurely stroll, park your car for free on the grass outside of the Gloucester House Restaurant, or sit on one of the waterside benches on Western Avenue and watch the boats go by under a beautiful harbor sunset.

Gloucester block parties give yet another reason for locals to stay and travelers to visit. Founded in 2008, the popular affairs take place on the third Saturday of every month during the summer. Known as one of Gloucester’s best attractions, some of the town’s favorite restaurants set up shop outside so that people can enjoy their delicious dishes alfresco. Activities range from classical circus shows to performances by a variety of musicians that grace the Hancock and Porter stages.

Another crowd pleaser is the Cape Ann Farmers’ Market, which hits the streets of Gloucester every Thursday from June through October. For the last six years, the farmers’ market has provided Cape Ann with local goods while supporting small-scale production and sustainability.  The Cape Ann Farmers’ Market has also organized the Backyard Growers program (BYG), which helps low- to moderate-income families and residents create and maintain sustainable backyard gardens. The BYG provides all of the necessary goods (installation included), like compost, seeds, and raised beds. Not only does the program provide low-income residents with the opportunity to grow their own fresh produce, but it also helps to build and grow the community. The organization also trains and mentors growers to make sure the gardens are maintained with the utmost care.
Gloucester’s delectable restaurants, lively music, rich history, strong sense of community, breathtaking beaches, friendly residents, and ample attractions are just a few reasons that this rejuvenated fishing town has made its mark on the North Shore.

Gloucester’s Ryan & Wood Distillery keeps spirits high on the North Shore. Founded in 2006 by Bob Ryan and Dave Wood, Ryan & Wood Distillery is a highlight of Gloucester’s growing food-and-beverage scene. The inspiration for the distillery, which produces Knockabout Gin, Fully Cove Rum, and Beauport Vodka, was drawn from the traditional treasures of historic Gloucester. With Ryan’s extensive background working as a waterfront seafood processor and Wood’s knowledge of business and law (he’s a lawyer by trade), the two have come together to produce “small-batch, handcrafted spirits” in the heart of Gloucester. The spirits are meticulously distilled in very small batches in a 600-liter alembic copper pot, which has been used for hundreds of years in the distilling business to ensure superior quality of  handcrafted spirits. Coming straight from Germany, the Ryan & Wood still (an apparatus for distilling) is custom-made and of the best international quality. The Ryan & Wood team unabashedly enforces extra effort and consistent monitoring to turn out top-notch products, and your taste buds will agree. 15 Great Republic Drive, 978-281-2282

 

Gloucester’s waterfront and beyond. Latitude 43 Restaurant & Bar serves up a variety of delicious dishes in its eco-friendly building, while live music draws crowds to its backroom bar. 25 Rogers Street, 978-281-0223. Alchemy, in the heart of downtown, offers a variety of tasty tapas like crispy local calamari, housemade ravioli, and arancinis in a chic ambiance and at affordable prices. 3 Duncan Street, 978-281-3997. Virgilio’s Italian Bakery has been owned and operated by the Virgilio family since 1961. Virgilio’s breads are prepared daily and sold to dozens of local markets and restaurants. Stop in for a St. Joseph sandwich, with fresh Italian meats, imported provolone cheese, oil, and oregano. 29 Main Street, 978-283-5295. Catch 22 Bistro serves up a large selection of beer and wine. With a variety of delicious courses on its menu (think fig-and-walnut ravioli), Catch 22 has certainly made a name for itself in town. 14 Rogers Street, 978-283-0247. Alexandra’s Bread Company touts hearty breads and to-die-for scones, as well as retro oilcloth bags that are perfect for toting a fresh loaf to a picnic or a dinner party. 265 Main Street, 978-281-3064.

 

The Cape Ann Museum is rich in art, history, and cultural heritage. Also known for its inexpensive admissions, the museum offers a rotation of special exhibits throughout the year. 27 Pleasant Street, 978-283-0455. Gloucester Stage Company, co-founded in 1979 by Geoff Richon, Denny Blodgett, and Israel Horovitz, has produced more than 35 world-premiere productions. Youth acting workshops, play readings, and other special events are also on offer. 267 Main Street, 978-281-4433. The Schooner Thomas E. Lannon offers sails and charters along Gloucester Harbor, the perfect way to get a taste of what it was like to experience the open sea on a fishing schooner decades ago. 63 Rogers Street, 978-281-6634. Gloucester Maritime Heritage Center offers hands-on activities for all ages. Dip your hands into the touch tanks filled with sea urchins and star fish, sound a 100-year-old foghorn, or take in a panoramic view of Ten Pound Island. 9 Harbor Loop, 978-281-0470. 7 Seas Whale Watch, a high-speed vessel, runs daily with a variety of times to choose from and has been featured on the Discovery Channel and National Geographic. 7 Seas Wharf, 888-283-1776. Toodeloos on historic Main Street has a plethora of toys for kids, and the goods keep rolling in with daily shipments. 137 Main Street, 978-281-2011. Village Silversmith is filled with gems from around the world that are mounted in sterling silver settings. Recently begun mining in Northern Mexico means plenty more treasures to come. 138 Main Street, 978-283-8811.

Destination: Beverly

In Beverly, the arts, culture, and history collide in an inspiring ocean setting. By, Meryl D. Pearlstein

Tradition, spirit, and the arts are the backbone of seaside Beverly. Offering more of a small-city feel than its immediate neighbors, Beverly mixes the young spirit of a college town with the stability of an established residential and business community. Neighborhoods like Beverly Farms, Prides Crossing, and Montserrat offer green spaces not just for those with private estates along Route 127 but also for younger families living in single-family houses or singles occupying downtown apartments. This, together with 16-acre Lynch Park, earned Beverly the moniker “The Garden City” of the North Shore.

Inspiring controversy to this day, Beverly considers itself the birthplace of the American Navy, citing the departure of General Washington’s first armed ship, the Hannah, from its harbor in 1775 as qualification. (Neighboring Marblehead begs to differ, as the crew and outfitting of the Hannah originated there, so goes the dispute.) Another “first” inspiring continued discussion is Beverly’s claim of being the birthplace of the American industrial revolution, with the first cotton mill in the United States (1787) once located at the corner of Cabot and Dodge streets. Other sites, such as Slater Mill in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, contest vehemently, pointing to the unprofitability of the Beverly Cotton Manufactory as a disqualifier.

In Beverly, the arts filter into all aspects of life. Visual arts are showcased in Montserrat College of the Arts’ galleries, which are open to the public. Performing arts are free to the community as well, with outdoor concerts drawing spectators to Lynch Park and other locations. Pop-up poetry events are one of the city’s newest endeavors, with “The Improbable Places Poetry Tour” making appearances in venues as varied as the shallow end of a swimming pool or a bike shop.

The town has been a destination for music, dance, and theatre for more than 50 years, thanks to the North Shore Music Theatre’s celebrity concerts, musical productions, and children’s programs. Recently bought by a private organization, the North Shore Music Theatre is particularly well known for its summer stock program, with classic musicals and touring companies regularly including Beverly on their schedules. Endicott College’s new performing arts center offers the promise of even more arts for the community.  The longest-running magic show in the country, “Le Grand David and His Spectacular Magic Company,” takes place every Sunday at the Cabot Street Cinema Theatre, a 1920 classic movie palace, originally designed with both live performances and movie screenings in mind. The theatre also showcases art films along with other more popular titles. Beverly’s second classic playhouse, the Larcom, dates from 1912 and was restored from top to bottom 30 years ago. It again delights audiences with the magic troupe’s second production, “An Anthology of Stage Magic.”

On the North Shore, Beverly has a reputation as a jazz city. Replacing the long-gone but cherished jazz club Sandy’s, Chianti is now as much a jazz spot as a Tuscan trattoria. Brenden Crocker’s Wild Horse Café mixes martinis with music, and Tryst serves up a weekend jazz breakfast (reservations are strongly advised).

Beverly gives residents another reason to stay in town and for visitors to stop by: the Cummings Center. This quarter-mile expanse of buildings was the original location of the United Shoe Machinery Corporation, known as “The Shoe,” and home to a flourishing industry in the early-to-mid 1900s. Purchased in 1996 by Cummings Properties and transformed into a collection of stores, restaurants, and businesses, the architecturally and historically significant site has created new jobs as well as new options for dining and entertainment, plus a museum setting for viewing historical shoe manufacturing equipment and vintage photographs.

With its seaside setting and beaches, vibrant downtown center, public outdoor park, stately homes and estates, affordable condos, focus on in-city employment and the arts, a public golf and tennis club, and five railway stops on a commuter route running from Boston to Rockport, you can understand why so many people call Beverly a city with a small-town feel.

Dream Theatre Beverly’s crown jewel of performing arts affords entertainment and a dose of nostalgia.

One of the few remaining grand movie palaces of the 1920s is Beverly’s own Cabot Street Cinema Theatre. The 750-seat Cabot screens “films worth seeing more than once” and is home to the world’s longest-running magic show, Le Grand David and His Own Spectacular Magic Company, now in its 35th year. It was thanks to this production that the dusty Cabot was saved from the wrecking ball in the 1970s. After a complete refurbishment, it reopened for movies in 1976, and then introduced in 1977 the magic show that has attracted patrons throughout the world. Today, Cabot is still pure vaudeville with filigree accoutrements, Art Nouveau murals, red fabric seat cushions, and a giant chandelier gracing a rotunda, as well as a tuxedoed usher to greet patrons. For Le Grand David, the audience enters through a dragon’s mouth into a world of illusion. Buy some popcorn, marvel at the elaborate production, and imagine yourself back in a time without the Internet, video games, or smartphones. 286 Cabot St., 978-927-3677, legranddavid.com, cabotcinemamovies.com.

On the Town Beverly’s best in shopping, eating, and relaxing

Dane Street Beach If pebbles on the sand and occasional rocks in the water don’t bother you, you’ll love this public beach in Beverly. When the tide is out, you can walk out far to explore the tide pools as you gaze across Salem Harbor. There’s a bathhouse, a kid’s play structure, and street parking. Dane St. and Lothrop St.

Lynch Park A 16-acre jewel with beaches, kayaking, an Italian rose garden, and spaces for music performances, Lynch Park hosts Beverly’s Yankee homecoming commemoration each August. 55 Ober St., bevrec.com.

The Balch House For a dose of 17th-century history, The Balch House provides a peek into one of the oldest wood-frame houses in the U.S. Tours via the Beverly Historical Society are scheduled Tuesday through Saturday in the summer and fall. 448 Cabot St., 978-922-1186, beverlyhistory.org.

Casa de Moda A destination gift shop with myriad goodies for viewing, smelling, and trying on; here’s where you’ll find the perfect ballet outfit, candle, or piece of jewelry for that hard-to-buy-for someone. 272 Cabot St., 978-922-8100.

Yarns in the Farms For the knitter, the Beverly Farms yarn store has it all, from materials to instructional books and knitting classes. 641 Hale St., 978-927-2108, yarnsinthefarms.com.

Prides Crossing Confections Fudge and handmade chocolates are North Shore traditions, and Prides Crossing Confections offers some of the best. Don’t leave without trying the chocolate-coated caramel turtles. 590 Hale St., 978-927-2185, pridescrossingconfections.com.

Marino’s Café A 10-minute walk from the Cummings Center and steps from the train station, Marino’s Café is a convenient choice for homemade sandwiches, salads, and entrees with an Italian flair. Don’t miss open mic, trivia, and wing nights. 200 Rantoul St., 978-922-9288, marinoscafe.net.

Anchor Pub & Grille Across from Beverly Harbor, the Anchor is a Beverly tradition for meals throughout the day and some of the freshest lobsters and clams in town. The bar promises a good scene into the wee hours. 20 Cabot St., 978-921-0504.

The Beverly Depot This train station-turned-eatery offers classic fare, from seafood to roast beef to aged steaks. There’s nothing trendy here, but the food is consistent and patrons of all ages are welcome. 10 Park St., 978-927-5402, beverlydepot.com.

Henry’s For more than 65 years, Henry’s has helped locals find the freshest in baked goods, deli items, meat, and produce. Ask for help assembling a picnic for the beach. 588 Cabot St., 978-922-3885, henrysofbeverly.com.

Wylie Inn and Conference Center You’ll feel like one of the Beverly elite at this 92-room inn along coastal Route 127. The inn sits on a 10-acre campus adjacent to the 1900s-era Tupper Manor (the conference center) with a striking fountain and lawn. Beach access and ocean views complete the feeling of living on an estate. 295 Hale St., 866-333-0859, wyliecenter.com.

THE DETAILS

Date of Settlement: 1626. Date of Incorporation: 1668. Zip Code: 01915. Population: 39,502 Total area: 15.4 square miles. Median household income: $68,407. Schools: Public ele-mentary: 5; public middle: 1; public high school: 1. Notable Residents: John Updike, writer; President William Taft (summer resident); Stu Irving, 1972 U.S. Hockey silver medalist; Henry Clay Frick, industrialist/financier (summer resident); Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr., associate justice, U.S. Supreme Court (summer resident); Henry Cabot Lodge, politician/statesman (summer resident); Dave Leonard, former Baltimore Orioles pitcher; A.J. Barnett, FOX meteorologist; Paula Cole, singer.

All That Kennebunkport Has to Offer

A short drive up coastal Route 1, Kennebunkport, the presidential respite and rustic resort town, is the perfect weekend getaway. By, Brandy Rand

Weekend wanderlust is a common occurrence among New Englanders. And with good reason: In a little over an hour, you can be in Maine, aptly dubbed “Vacationland.” So start your engines and enjoy a leisurely ride up Route 1 to Kennebunkport.

Kennebunkport has been a popular summer haven since the 1870s—long before the Bush family set up camp here—when wealthy merchants built mansions along Ocean Avenue. Now, this resort town offers a mix of quaint shops, picturesque beaches, and outdoor eateries.

Arrive in the afternoon and check your bags at Captain Fairfield Inn, a boutique B&B. Luxury abounds, with Frette linens, fluffy down-filled duvets, and wireless Internet (if you must). 8 Pleasant St., 800-322-1928, captainfairfield.com. Rent bikes from Kennebunkport Bicycle Co. and set out on the winding back road north toward Cape Porpoise Harbor. 34 Arundel Road. Or, take a 15-minute ride to The Ramp, a charming sports bar with dressed-up pub food like mussels with chorizo. Grab a local Allagash White brew and sit outside to watch the lobster boats cruise by. 77 Pier Road, 207-967-8500, pier77restaurant.com.

Then, spend some time in town browsing at Daytrip Society, a Mecca of eco-friendly and outdoorsy gear and gifts. Buy an all-seasons Down East Doormat, handcrafted in Maine from rope formerly used by lobstermen. 4 Dock Square, 207-967-4440, daytripsociety.com. Don’t hesitate to bring your pooch, as there are plenty of water bowls placed outside pet-friendly stores. For a treat, head to Union Square, where Scalawags Pet Boutique (24 Ocean Avenue, 207-967-2775, scalawagsonline.com) sells Capt. Jack’s Sea Biscuits for Fido, while nearby Roly’s English Fudge (24 Ocean Ave., 207-571-8296, englishfudge.com) offers an array of scrumptious gelato to satisfy your own sweet tooth.

At boutique resort Hidden Pond, the buzzed-about open-air eatery Earth at Hidden Pond opened earlier this summer. An open-air kitchen showcases the restaurant’s “Farm to Fork” philosophy; reservations are required. 354 Goose Rocks Road, 877-815-8552, hiddenpondmaine.com. If small plates in an intimate setting are more your style, try Old Vines Wine Bar in neighboring Kennebunk. With a wide selection of wines and tapas, the atmosphere is reminiscent of a true European wine bar. 173 Port Road, 207-967-2310, oldvineswinebar.com.

Short Stops  Complement your Kennebunkport getaway with these easy stops heading north along Route 1

1. Stonewall Kitchen is an actual place, not just a line of gourmet foods. Samples abound, so try before you buy. 2 Stonewall Lane, York, 207-351-2712, stonewallkitchen.com. 2. Pie in the Sky is as old-fashioned as they come: real butter, no preservatives, and perfectly puffed crusts. One River Road, Cape Neddick, 207-363-2656, pieintheskymaine.com. 3. Blacksmith’s Mall is a veritable museum of antiques. Recent find: a 1940s juice press. 166 Main St., Ogunquit, 207-646-9643. 4. Mike’s Clam Shack is always packed with patrons hungry for its delicious lobster rolls, soups, and classic boiled dinners, plus live lobsters packed to go. 1150 Post Road, Wells, 207-646-5999. 5. Bo-Mar Hall is a treasure trove of glassware, toy collections, sports memorabilia, and much more. 1622 Post Road, Wells, 207-646-4116, bomarhall.com.

Destination: Newport

Newport, Rhode Island is awash in opulence, from its many famous mansions to its breathtaking beaches and coast. By, Margaret Loftus

Ever since wealthy industrialists began building their summer “cottages” along its shoreline in the 19th century, Newport has been synonymous with R&R. Most of the Gilded Age mansions are museums now, but the good life is still alive and well—and only an hour-and-a-half drive from the North Shore.

Stay Built in 1873 for New York Congressman John Winthrop Chanler and his wife, Margaret Astor Ward, The Chanler at Cliff Walk hearkens back to the graciousness of the town’s golden era, with its manicured gardens and lawn overlooking the Atlantic. Each of the 20 guest rooms features a unique décor theme inspired by history—the ornate Louis XVI room is accented by hand-painted leaf and ribbon designs copied from a Normandy chateau—or the natural beauty of the coast, like the Block Island ocean villa, with its washed green and amber palette, wainscoting, and private courtyard meant to evoke a cottage-like feel. 117 Memorial Blvd., 866-793-5664, thechanler.com. While the Chanler has on-call car service, gratis, to zip you the mile into downtown, Vanderbilt Hall is half a block away from the action on Thames Street. The luxe inn originally served as a residence for Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt more than 100 years ago. Several multi-million-dollar renovations later, the mansion has been transformed into 33 guest rooms elegantly appointed with Italian linens and cashmere throws, including a newly restored 1,000-square-foot suite. Escape the bustle of town in the hotel’s spa, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, and sauna and steam rooms on a rooftop deck. 41 Mary St., 888-826-4255, vanderbilthall.com.

Eat Chef Thomas Duffy at The Chanler’s Spiced Pear has the magic touch when it comes to local seafood, filling delicate ravioli with lobster and ricotta and show- casing diver scallops with jumbo gulf shrimp atop a crispy risotto cake. Monty’s at Vanderbilt Hall serves gastro pub-inspired fare, like sautéed Berkshire pork loin with arancini, apple gelée, and Calvados sauce, in a cozy fireside setting. For al fresco dining with panoramic views of Narragansett Bay, head to the Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar, which sources much of its seafood and produce locally. Seafood is the star here. Don’t miss the scallop chowder and “bag of doughnuts”—lobster, crab, and shrimp fritters with chipotle-maple aioli. Sayer’s Wharf, 401-846-2260, mooringrestaurant.com.

See Beginning in the Chanler’s backyard, the Cliff Walk is a 3.5-mile scenic walkway that traces the coastline past some of Newport’s most famous estates. cliffwalk.com. For a closer look, tour one or more of the 11 Newport Mansions run by the Preservation Society of Newport County, from Rosecliff, modeled after the Grand Trianon in Versailles, to the Breakers, an Italian Renaissance palazzo built by the Vanderbilt Family. 401-817-1000, newportmansions.org. Save time for a peek at Rough Point, one of a handful of grand homes of tobacco heiress Doris Duke that served as repositories for her enormous collection of fine art, furnishings, and antiques that she acquired from around the world. 401-847-8344, newportrestoration.org.

Lowell, Massachusetts

Lowell breathes new life into its old assets. By Tamsin Venn

“What makes Lowell tick is a very diverse mix of people and the fact that the whole city is associated with American history,” says Paul Marion, director of community and cultural affairs for the city. “People have a sense that it’s an historic place, but it’s a living, breathing place. You can see the history on the streets and be part of it. The cultural life in the past 30 years has set Lowell apart as a vibrant city, one of the cultural hot spots in the state.”

Edward A. LeLacheur Park in Lowell, Massachusets

The old mill buildings, thanks to creative financing from private industry and government, are being recycled into affordable living spaces. The city is convenient to Routes 3, 93, and 495, and it’s a 45-minute train ride into Boston’s North Station.

“The new conversion of mills is smart and responsible,” says Marion. “Lowell has recycled its assets, as opposed to destroying them and starting over. It’s a really good model and lesson. It’s meant that Lowell has maintained a special character and distinct identity by reusing its historical forms.”

Lowell was the first large-scale planned industrial city in the country, created in the 1820s by several Boston merchants who envisioned building textile mills in New England to end reliance on exports from England. Despite an earlier start on the banks of the Charles River in Waltham, the group preferred a farm site farther north on the Merrimack River. They aimed to take advantage of the existing Pawtucket Canal built around Pawtucket Falls in the 1790s and also the falls’ 30-foot drop, a powerful source of energy to run the mills. They bought 400 acres of land and built the first brick mills, naming the new city after their late colleague, Francis Cabot Lowell. On a visit to Manchester, England, in 1810, Lowell had memorized the complex workings of a power loom in an act of industrial espionage and brought the concept back to the U.S.

Yankee farm girls first worked the mills but were gradually replaced by immigrants who, despite the extended hours and lowered wages, still found life to be a great improvement over what they had left behind. Whole families worked in the mills, sustained by ethnic enclaves: Irish, French-Canadian, German, Greek, Polish, Brazilian, Russian, and Middle Eastern.

Hard times then came to Lowell. Walkouts and strikes occurred. The mill owners moved south for cheaper labor. The Depression hit. The World Wars saw brief surges in demand for textile and munitions, but even that wave of employment passed by Lowell. By the 1960s, Lowell was a ghost town, with 10 mill complexes deserted and forgotten and some being torn down in a wave of urban-renewal fervor.

The visionaries collaborated again. In 1978, with help from the late Senator Paul Tsongas, a brilliant match of public and private partners created the Lowell National Historic Park and put the story of Lowell back together in the abandoned mills. The city’s rebirth continued with the arrival of UMass Lowell and Wang Laboratories. But high tech went bust and Lowell struggled again.

Today, Lowell is in the midst of yet another upswing. You can walk along streets lined by nearly six miles of canals, or hop on a trolley or canal boat. Then there are the galleries, shops, theatre, sports teams, concerts, and lectures; the list goes on. True to its immigrant heritage, cuisine here includes Cambodian, Brazilian, Chinese, Greek, and Mexican.

“Lowell has a reputation where newcomers are welcome and people can take their first steps to establish themselves in the country and in the state,” says Marion. “Some of it has to do with access to affordable housing and networks of people who have settled here.” The city boasts the biggest Cambodian population in the U.S. outside Long Beach, California. The Angkor Dance Troupe even has its own office. Recent immigrants have arrived from Burma, Africa, Russia, and Iraq.

Lowell also has open space. The 1,000-acre Lowell-Dracut-Tyngsboro State Forest offers six miles of trails, and The Greater Lowell Indian Cultural Association claims two special sites here. Back on the water at the Bellegarde Boathouse, you can learn to scull with the Merrimack River Rowing Association. Whether you’re a resident or visitor here, feel free to take your pick of things to do and see—in Lowell, anything is possible.

The Details

Date of Settlement: 1820s
Date of Incorporation: 1823
Zip Codes: 01850, 01851, 01852, 01853, 01854
Population: 104,400
Total area: 14.5 miles
Median household income: $46,774
Schools: 14 elementary schools, 8 middle schools, 1 high school
Higher Ed: UMass/Lowell, Middlesex Community College
Notable residents: Jack Kerouac; Paul Tsongas; James McNeil Whistler (artist); Bette Davis; Ed McMahon; An Wang (inventor); Micky Ward (boxer whose life was portrayed in The Fighter)

Artists in Residence Local artists move home to the renovated Appleton Mills.

Appleton Mills

This spring, 130 artists will move into “insanely cheap” housing in the renovated Appleton Mills in downtown Lowell, where rents range from $400 to $900.

“This will be the largest affordable housing [structure] for artists that has received funding from the state,” says Abby Goldenfarb, project manager for Boston developer Trinity Financial.

Besides a low-income requirement, residents  must prove a primary living from the arts. Residents will decide how to use space, making the Mills a true artists’ collaborative. Sculptor Kim Radochia of Beverly has created the metallic four-story atrium centerpiece called “Waves,” which reflects the  nearby Hamilton Canal.

The $43 million Appleton Mills kicks off a 10-year, $800 million redevelopment of the Hamilton Canal District, 14 acres characterized by vacant lots, abandoned mills, rickety bridges, and dismal streets,  forming the “industrial canyon” in Lowell’s 19th century heyday. Offices, shops, 700 housing units, a $100 million courthouse, and parks will link to the rest of downtown by new bridges, canal walkways, streets, and trolleys. 219 Jackson Street, Lowell, 978-458-0588, appletonmills.com.

Out and About The top spots for culture, cuisine, and retail therapy

New England Quilt Museum The only museum in the Northeast dedicated to collecting, preserving, and exhibiting quilts. Shattuck Street, 978-452-4207, nequiltmuseum.org.

Brush Art Gallery

Lowell Spinners This Boston Red Sox minor league team is where Kevin Youkilis got his start. Box tickets at $10 make this an affordable family outing. LeLacheur Park, 450 Aiken Street, 978-459-1702, lowellspinners.com.

Lowell National Historic Park Follow industrial history at the Boott Cotton Mills Museum and the Mill Girls and Immigrants Exhibit, also trolley or canal boat tours. 246 Market Street, 978-970-5000, nps.gov/lowe.

Brush Art Gallery and Studios A lively gallery sells quality art from worldwide artists. 256 Market Street, 978-459-7819, thebrush.org.

Lowell Memorial Auditorium See top performers at off-Broadway prices. 50 East Merrimack Street, 978-454-2299, lowellauditorium.com.

Merrimack Repertory Theatre Seven plays a year lure an ever-growing audience. 50 East Merrimack Street, 978-654-4678, merrimackrep.org.

American Textile History Museum A recent $2 million renovation shows fabric evolution from flax to recycled soda cans. 491 Dutton Street, 978-4441-1412, athm.org.

Lowell Folk Festival July 29-31 marks the 25th anniversary of this free international music festival. The ethnic food is phenomenal. 978-970-5000, lowellfolkfestival.org.

Athenian Corner Restaurant Moussaka, spanakopita, roast leg of lamb, avgolemono, or faki, this restaurant serves authentic Greek food prepared by the Panagiotopoulos clan. 207 Market Street, 978-458-7052, atheniancorner.com.

Western Avenue Studios In two renovated mills, nearly 200 artists open their studios the first Saturday of every month, many items priced under $50. 122 Western Avenue, 978-349-8069, westernavenuestudios.com.

Lowell Celebrates The Jack Kerouac Commemorative in Eastern Canal Park pays homage to this Beat-era author in words carved on eight granite pillars. lowellcelebrateskerouac.org.

Old Court Pub A bit of Ireland serves Irish stew, shepherd’s pie, bangers ‘n’ mash, and fish ‘n’ chips to die for, washed down
by a Guiness. 29 Central Street, 978-452-0100, oldcourtirishpub.com.

Welles Emporium The store sells handmade gifts, clothing, jewelry, home accessories, collectibles, and toys not found in any mall. 175 Merrimack Street, 978-454-4401, wellesemporium.com.

Four Sisters Owl Diner

Rafting The same rapids that brought the textile industry also power a thrilling raft ride on the Concord River, April through May. 800-532-7438, lowellandtrustreet.org.

Four Sisters Owl Diner A local breakfast spot serves big portions for reasonable prices, and a dozen omelets named after Lowell streets. 244 Appleton Street, 978-453-8321.

Blue Taleh Serves Thai food you would otherwise have to go to Thailand to experience. 15 Kearney Square, 978-453-1112, bluetalehlowell.com.

Chatham’s Charms

Nestled at the elbow of Cape Cod, the breezy beach town of Chatham muscles its way into the summer spotlight. By Lindsay Lambert

Baseball and apple pie notwithstanding, it’s tough to name anything that’s more classically American than summers on the Cape. From Bourne and Falmouth all the way up to P-Town, Cape Cod is a treasure trove of picture-perfect beaches, romantic B&Bs, and one-of-a-kind restaurants, bars, and shops. Along Route 28 at the Cape’s apex, or elbow, lies Chatham, a destination in and of itself.

Stay The Wequassett Resort and Golf Club is arguably Chatham’s best-kept secret. The AAA Four Diamond resort occupies 27 acres along Pleasant Bay and offers guests a choice of 120 rooms and suites. A single waterfront Round Cove Suite is the top slot, but Signature Water View rooms are a close second in terms of bay views and amenities. All told, more than a dozen room and suite types offer everything from extensive space and front-row water views to cozier cottage-style living with garden backdrops. Wequassett guests also enjoy two impeccable pools, two beaches, a meticulous tennis center, an 18-hole golf course, a kids’ center (complete with a pirate ship), boating and water sports, and four restaurants. Route 28, Pleasant Bay, 508-430-3000, wequassett.com.

Eat Main Street in Chatham is lined with rustic restaurants, pubs, and cafés. Slightly off the main thoroughfare, the Impudent Oyster is still heavily trafficked yet manages to avoid feeling too touristy. The low-key eatery offers a surf-and-turf menu and lighter items like salads and soups. 15 Chatham Bars Avenue, 508-945-3545. If you’re looking to sate a sweet tooth, head to the Chatham Candy Manor. The old-fashioned sweets shop is jam packed with confections, but its many flavors of homemade fudge steal the show. 484 Main Street, 508-945-0825, candymanor.com. The pièce de résistance of our Chatham culinary experience was at the Wequassett’s own twenty-eight Atlantic. The elegant restaurant’s waterfront setting is outdone only by chef Bill Brodsky’s menu. Our feast commenced with a trio of tartare (spicy yellow fin tuna, gingered hamachi, and truffled salmon) and was followed by an entrée of caramelized day boat scallops and mushroom ravioli with truffle cream sauce. A testament to Brodsky’s elegant, understated taste, the most unforgettable dish of our meal was, surprisingly, a simple side of buttery pumpkin polenta topped with dried cranberries and toasted almonds. If you’re celebrating a special occasion, ask for some bubbly and a table by the large picture windows. Route 28, Pleasant Bay, 508-430-3000, wequassett.com (online reservations are available).

See In July and August, the Wequassett hosts the annual Cape Cod Summer Jazz Festival, which features live entertainment. Route 28, Pleasant Bay, 508-430-3000, wequassett.com/jazz. Summertime is practically synonymous with baseball, and a visit to Chatham wouldn’t be complete without taking in a Chatham A’s home game at Veterans Field. Route 28, chathamas.com. Of course, Cape Cod is replete with gorgeous beaches, and Chatham is no exception. Pack an umbrella and some bocce balls and head to Chatham Lighthouse Beach. Occasionally, the functioning Chatham Light lighthouse is open to public for tours (free of charge). Otherwise, opt for a nature walk out to southern Monomoy Island, or just sit back and relax.

Sunday River, Maine

Maine’s Sunday River Ski Resort caters to adventure enthusiasts of all skill levels and tastes, making it a New England winter mainstay. By Lindsay Lambert

With a latticework of 133 trails on eight peaks, grand resorts, and a variety of restaurants and activities, Sunday River in Newry, Maine, is one of New England’s top winter getaways. In fact, eager to welcome skiers and snowboarders who can’t wait to take to its mountains, Sunday River for the last four years has been the first ski resort in the country to open its doors, as early as October. This season brings all-new new adventure options, making it a perfect pick for the whole family.

Stay
Sunday River offers a variety of lodging options, but two grande dames stand out among the rest: the Jordan Grand Resort Hotel and the Grand Summit Resort Hotel. Each property’s offerings include everything from standard guest rooms to three-bedroom suites, with slopeside accommodations affording views of the action on the mountain. The Jordan Grand, the resort’s premier property, lies just at the base of (and provides slopeside access to) the Jordan Bowl. Feel like giving the ski boots a break? Take a dip in the Jordan’s heated outdoor pool or hot tubs; work up a sweat at its fitness center; or indulge in a relaxing spa service.

Eat
Located in the Grand Summit Resort Hotel, Legend’s Restaurant offers hearty dishes like steak, seafood, and pasta and a recently expanded pub menu. Its fresh-cut fries are made from potatoes grown at Green Thumb Farms in Fryeburg. In the South Ridge Base Lodge, Foggy Goggle is popular thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and frills-free menu: burgers, chili, chowder, nachos, lobster rolls, and lobster mac ’n’ cheese. If you’re brave enough, take the Goggle Wing Challenge: patrons who can eat 10 atomically hot wings in five minutes get their wings for free, plus a T-shirt and their picture on the Wall of Flame. Dining at The Peak combines food and fun: guests dine on fare from customized, seasonal menus at the resort’s mid-mountain Peak Lodge, which they reach by Chondola. Sittings are available Saturdays throughout the winter, by reservation only.

See
Alpine skiing and snowboarding are obvious choices. New this winter, however, is the Sunday River Outdoor Center, which offers 40 km of cross-country and snowshoe terrain, plus dogsledding tours. For adventures above the ground, check out the resort’s Winter Zipline Tour and Racing Ziplines, also new this season. The zipline tours stretch across six lines, ranging from 100 to 300 feet in length. As of Christmastime, Sunday River added two parallel racing zips, pitting racers against eachother for a zip along 750 feet of cables. Sunday River seemingly has it all, but if you’re in search of an off-site excursion, nearby Bethel Village (bethelmaine.com) is just the ticket, literally: Ski magazine voted Bethel one of America’s best ski towns. Sunday River Ski Resort, 15 South Ridge Road, Newry, ME, 207-824-3000, sundayriver.com.

Woodstock, Vermont

Woodstock, Vermont is a charming town full of authentic art, beautiful natural scenery, and discreet luxury. By, Margaret Loftus

With a traditional New England village green, white church spires rising above Victorian storefronts, and covered bridges spanning the Quechee River, Woodstock, Vermont looks like it was conjured up by Currier and Ives. But the town has a lot more going for it than its postcard-perfect looks. Arts and crafts thrive here, and the great outdoors beckons with top-notch hiking, biking, skiing, and golf—all less than a three-hour drive from the North Shore.

Stay
At forefront of the village green, the 142-room Woodstock Inn is strategically located for exploring town on foot, but actually leaving its cozy confines is another matter. Guests are greeted by a roaring fire in the lobby’s massive fieldstone fireplace, setting the tone for warm Vermont touches throughout, from paintings depicting rural New England life to Simon Pearce glass lamps on guest room nightstands. The resort has bikes available for rent, a Nordic ski center, and an 18-hole golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones, Sr. But the latest draw is the stunning LEED-certified spa that opened last fall, a serene space that incorporates the outdoors through its design and treatments. Try the 100-minute seasonal signature treatment: a vanilla-maple scrub, body wrap, and deep-tissue massage. 14 The Green, 800-448-7900, woodstockinn.com.

Eat
The Woodstock Inn’s sophisticated but casual vibe is reflected in The Red Rooster’s menu, with classics like filet mignon in red port wine sauce and oysters Rockefeller. 14 The Green, 800-448-7900, woodstockinn.com. A short walk away, the bistro Prince & the Pauper gets many of its ingredients from local purveyors, including the house-made country pate. 24 Elm Street, 802-457-1818, princeandpauper.com. In nearby Quechee, diners at Simon Pearce can peruse three showroom floors of handcrafted house wares before indulging in dishes like horseradish-crusted blue cod and seared local venison. 1760 Quechee Main Street, 802-295-1470, simonpearce.com.

See
Gallery on the Green specializes in New England artists known for their rural landscapes, including Marieluise Hutchinson and Chip Evans. One The Green, 802-457-4956, galleryonthegreen.com. A few doors down, the rambling Gillingham’s is the quintessential Vermont general store, peddling everything from muck boots to French macaroons. 16 Elm Street, 802-457-2100, gillinghams.com. Kids will love the Billings Farm and Museum, a working dairy farm with exhibits on 19th-century farm life. Route 12 and River Road, 802-457-2355, billingsfarm.org. Shackleton & Thomas, the showroom and studios of renowned furniture craftsman Charles Shackleton and master potter Miranda Thomas, is well worth the 15-minute drive west along the Quechee River. The Mill, Route 4, Bridgewater, 802-672-5175, shackletonthomas.com.

Topsfield

A bout 20 miles north of boston, Interstate 95 splinters into a system of smaller rural highways and routes. There, along US Route 1 in the near geographic center of Essex County, among a smattering of state parks and sanctuaries, is where you’ll find Topsfield, a small town (it’s just 13 square miles) with a big-family feel.

And family-friendly it is. An ideal long-weekend or day trip destination for local nature lovers, Topsfield is within minutes of a number of natural attractions. With its incorporation in 1650, the town boasts its fair share of historical points of interest, as well as commercial and cultural offerings. (In case you haven’t heard, Topsfield is host to a popular annual fair.) A largely residential town, Topsfield relies simply on its familial, laid-back vibe to provide a quality escape for visitors and a low-hassle way of life for those who live there.

One of the best illustrations—we say that literally—of life in Topsfield, from a kid’s perspective, at least, can be found at the Topsfield Town Library; more specifically, in its Children’s Room. The 32-foot-long mural by Cambridge artist David Fichter, entitled “Topsfield Reverie,” depicts children in various states of concentration and imagination, with familiar images of the town’s most well-known landmarks scattered in between. Among those Topsfield icons featured are the Ipswich River, the Topsfield Fair, the rockery caves at Audobon, Hood’s Pond, and Wheatland’s Hill, a favorite community sledding spot come winter. The mural imparts a dreamlike feeling, which might not be too far off for those who call the sleepy town home.

Although they, too, appear in the painting, other famous Topsfield sites are best enjoyed in reality. Most obvious, likely, is the Parson Capen House. On its new site near the historic house stands the restored Gould Barn, which belonged to one of Topsfield’s founding families by that same name (note to readers: the barn just so happens to be available for private functions). Another  notable but probably lesser-known landmark is the Coolidge Estate, the 571-acre site of what once was the home of lawyer, financier, and former MIT Corporation member William Coolidge, who died in 1992. The jewel in the estate’s crown is  Coolidge’s 24-room Georgian-style mansion, at which visitors can marvel from the surrounding sprawling grounds.

Coolidge’s estate is the appropriate embodiment of its home town of Topsfield, where the grander things in life easily give way to their simpler surroundings.


Fair Play

Nearly 200 years later, the Topsfield Fair is still going strong, and it keeps getting better.

If you live on the north shore, you’re probably familiar with the history of the Topsfield Fair. In case you’re not, a quick crash course: America’s oldest fair first took place in Topsfield in 1818, when the Essex Agricultural Society, the fair’s not-for-profit proprietor, was officially granted a charter. The Society, which was formed by a group of “practical farmers,” set a goal to “promote and improve the agricultural interests of farmers and others in Essex County.” Nearly 200 years later, the basic mission of the Essex Agricultural Society—to educate its public about and to promote the importance of agricultural activities in an atmosphere of fun and excitement through the medium of the Topsfield Fair—hasn’t changed, but the Fair itself certainly has.

What began as the Essex Agricultural Society Cattle Show, consisting of countywide exhibits and fairs, has evolved into a Massachusetts institution, complete with agricultural events (who could forget those record-setting gourds?), amusement park-style rides, shopping, and performances by contemporary entertainers. At its conclusion this year, the Fair will have been held in its existing location, on the grounds of the former Treadwell Farm,  for the 100th straight year (except for three years of hiatus during the Civil War).

This year’s fair, taking over Topsfield from October 1 through 11, will feature  headlining performances by Emily Osment and Mitchel Musso of the Disney Channel’s “Hannah Montana,” along with Andover band Boys Like Girls, a foursome known for its inspirational lyrics and messages. Other activities will include an opening night fireworks show, parades, a Midway carnival, a dog show, cow milking  and blacksmith demonstrations, and sand sculptures, to name a few. And then there’s the food: over the course of its 10-day schedule, guests can stuff themselves on everything from Italian sausages and giant turkey legs to homemade fudge and deep-fried Oreos—all in the name of agriculture. topsfieldfair.org.

What to do

Historical Society
Where to go to get your fix of culture and commerce.

Alfalfa Farm Winery
Richard Adelman owns and operates this rural Topsfield vineyard, which churns out a variety of hand-crafted wines. Open on Sundays in the summer, Alfalfa’s hours extend to the whole weekend in the fall, meaning there’s more time to take in wine tastings, culinary events, even the occasional class, from vineyard management to—yep, belly dancing. 267 Rowley Bridge Road, 978-774-0014, alfalfafarmwinery.com.

Parson Capen House
Once the home of the Reverend Joseph Capen, this original 17th-century house still stands on 12 bucolic acres of land overlooking the Commons. A National Historic Landmark, it remains one of the finest examples of Elizabethan architecture in the country. Visitors are welcome three days a week between June 15 and September 15. 1 Howlett Street, 978-887-3998, topsfieldhistory.org.

Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary
Mass Audubon’s largest sanctuary offers more than 10 miles of interconnecting trails that make for easy exploration of its forests, meadows, and wetlands. The most peaceful way to pass through? Hop a canoe. You must be a member of Mass Audubon to rent canoes, however, there is  a rental company in Ipswich, Foote Brothers, that offers several options. Get dropped off  upstream and canoe your way back on the Ipswich River, passing through the sanctuary along the way. 87 Perkins Row, 978-887-9264, massaudubon.org.

The Bicycle Shop
In Topsfield, bike buffs shop and get their gear serviced at David Smith’s The Bicycle Shop. Smith’s store is stocked with various models of bikes by brands like Kona, Giant, and Raleigh. Not shopping for a new ride? No problem. Stop in for some parts or a full tune up, a popular service that includes an inspection, cleaning, and any necessary adjustments. Topsfield Station, 7 Grove Street, 978-887-6511, biketops.com.

The ArtRoom Studio and Gallery
Uunleash your inner Picasso at this always-fun spot, which offers classes and workshops for all ages, as well as exhibits of completed works. Oh, yeah—the ArtRoom also doubles as one of the best birthday party venues in town. 30 Main Street, Village Shopping Center, 978.887.8809, theartroomstudio.com.


Gil’s Grocery
If you’re headed to dinner at a friend’s house, or if you’ll be dining out à deux, be sure to BYOB from Gil’s Grocery. The modest shop, with its weathered hand-painted wooden signs, serves up spirits with a side of nostalgia. 30 Main Street, Village Shopping Center, 978- 887-5921.

The Gift Horse & Bookshelf
Sandra Herrick’s has-it-all shop meets a number of gift-giving needs, be it for a wedding, a birthday, or retail therapy for yourself. Plus, the store’s selection of invitations and announcements will help get the word out about your own special occasion. 20 Main Street, 978-887-5225.

Rockport, Maine

An easy drive up I-95 leads straight to the heart of the Maine coast, where the charming town of Rockport promises laid-back luxury.

With its wealth of options for shopping, history, arts and culture, and dining and lodging, Rockport, Maine, makes for an ideal weekend getaway. In warmer months, the coastal town is a veritable beach escape in your own back yard.

Stay
We planned our weekend around a stay at the newly renovated Samoset Resort, a AAA Four-Diamond property on Penobscot Bay. The Samoset is one of New England’s most celebrated golf resorts, with 14 of its championship course’s 18 holes played along the ocean. Although we spent a misty morning on the course under the tutelage of affable golf pro Gary Soule, we discovered that there’s much more to the resort. A health club and massage services are at the ready for fitness-minded guests, but the main attraction is a new outdoor zero-entry swimming pool overlooking the Atlantic. The resort offers 178 rooms and suites. For utmost exclusivity, book the very private Flume Cottage, which occupies its own rocky promontory directly on the water. 220 Warrenton Street, Rockport, 207-594-2511, samosetresort.com.

Eat
Once in Rockport, you won’t have to go far to enjoy a four-star meal—actually, a AAA Four-Diamond meal. Marcel’s at the Samoset serves elegantly presented surf and turf dishes, which are complemented by an award-winning wine list. 220 Warrenton Street, 207-594-2511, samosetresort.com. Prism Restaurant and Gallery’s menus teem with carefully mixed salads and sandwiches, rich pasta plates, and succulent seafood dishes. Afterward, browse the gallery’s colorful glasswork, created by local artists. 297 Commercial Street, U.S. Route 1, Rockport, 207-230-0061, prismrockport.com. A new venture by chef/restaurateur Brian Hill, Shepherd’s Pie opened in May in historic Shepherd Block. Hearty pub fare includes fried clam tacos, porkbelly sandwiches, duck hot dogs, and, of course, shepherd’s pie, made with ground Maine lamb. Reservations aren’t accepted, but it’s worth the wait. 18 Central Street, Rockport, 207-236-8500.

See
The Center for Maine Contemporary Art features works by both established Maine artists and up-and-comers. Educational programs help visitors discover their own inner artists. 162 Russell Avenue, 207-236-2875, cmcanow.org. The Rockport Opera House hosts plays and performances of music, dance, and poetry.  A million-dollar makeover in 1993 has helped perpetuate its status as one of Maine’s most beloved cultural landmarks. Central Street, 207-236-2514, rockport.me.us/operahouse. Maine Sport Outfitters is a one-stop shop for bike and canoe rentals and guided kayak tours. Route 1, Rockport, 207-236-8797, mainesport.com. Neighboring Camden and Lincolnville are just minutes away and offer countless options similar to those that you’re guaranteed to love about this magical Maine town. —Lindsay Lambert

Burlington, Vermont

With adventures, restaurants, and nightlife galore, Burlington, Vermont is the ultimate late-summer retreat. Continue reading Burlington, Vermont

Port Authority

nsjj10_portsmouth1Designer boutiques, multiple concert venues, and one of the highest numbers of restaurants per capita in the US. Sound like paradise? Actually, it’s right here on the North Shore. Portsmouth, New Hampshire is packed with culture, the arts, and a vibrant nightlife. Those who live and work here know the city is about enjoying life’s pleasures, be it great wine, perfectly cooked burgers, abstract art, or a full-flavored cigar. And we haven’t even mentioned the beer. Portsmouth is home to not one, but three craft breweries, with a variety of summer seasonal brews just waiting to be enjoyed. What better place to spend a weekend away this summer? Here’s the insider’s guide you’ve been waiting for to experience the ins and outs of this unique, happening city.

Shop
Find summer makeup tips at Making Faces, Portsmouth’s trendy cosmetics boutique. Here you’ll see high-end makeup brands thought only to exist on the pages of fashion magazines. In fact, Making Faces covers its walls with pages from your favorite magazines, matching celebrities with sleek cosmetic lines. Perfect your summer look with the shop’s beauty consultants or visit their on-site makeup artists for skin treatments like the Oxygen Fast Blast to keep you looking your best.

Walk through The Three Graces Gallery to get a taste of the flourishing art scene in town. Owner Kim Ferreira fills the space with an impressive range of work, featuring paintings, sculptures, jewelry, handbags, and more. “I really try to have an eclectic but fun mix,” says Ferreira. “There’s a lot of humor and whimsy.” See it firsthand through the solo shows debuting this summer. Boston-based artist Kaetlyn Wilcox kicks off the season with her fantastic solo show through June. Come July, Newbury artist Robin Luciano Beaty, recently nominated for the Outstanding Abstract Artist Spotlight Award, will showcase her mixed-media abstract landscapes. Each show commences on the first Friday of the month.

Macro Polo has become an icon in downtown Portsmouth and is a must-stop shop for anyone who visits. Complete with snarky greeting cards, practical joke gear, and action figures like William Shakespeare and the Crazy Cat Lady, the shop is bound to give you a laugh. Keep in mind, though, that the likelihood of being offended is also pretty high, but then again, where else can you pick up that bacon wallet you’ve always wanted?

Hidden on a narrow side street, you’ll find the cigar palace of this coastal city. The extensive selection of specialty cigars lines the walls of the Federal Cigar. Featuring a variety of flavorful choices, the shop is bound to have your stogie of choice.

nsjj10_portsmouth2Fashionistas flock to Bliss, a designer boutique with some of the hottest names in the industry. You’ll find labels like Susana Monaco and Chulo Pony, designer denim (like 7 For All Mankind and Paige Premium Denim), and more. This ready-to-wear selection has gotten Bliss’s sister shop in Portland noticed in fashion mags like Marie Claire and Lucky, while Serendipity—just a few blocks away—sports a more bohemian vibe. Trendy pieces from Free People, Language, Green Dragon, and Pink Lotus fill the store with light fabrics, flattering shapes, and splashes of color—all perfect ingredients to spice up your summer wardrobe.

To finish off the look, design your own handbag at Anna Street Studio. Watch out “Project Runway”—this shop makes designing the bag of your dreams pretty easy. Anna Street Studio lets you a choose a template bag style, then select the fabric (creative prints, Kate Spade-like stripes, and fun textures) to complete your custom bag. Once you’ve made your choices, they’ll take care of the rest; no sewing required. Don’t feel guilty about treating yourself to a new bag—nearly all of the styles are reversible, so at the end of the season, you can flip from your summer brights to a darker fall print and get twice the wear.

Ready to jazz up your kitchen? Attrezzi’s got the right blend of cookware, gourmet spreads, and fine wines to prepare you for summer entertaining. Plan your visit on a weekend afternoon and head upstairs to the kitchen/wine shop for frequent wine tastings. The second floor is also home to the shop’s cooking classes, where you can perfect your culinary techniques this summer under the care of local Chef James Haller of the acclaimed restaurant The Black Trumpet.

Whether you need a light beach read or something with a bit more substance, you’ll find it at RiverRun Books. You’ll be greeted by the 20/20 table when you walk in the door, where each month the staff offers 20 of their favorite titles at 20 percent off. Why? “Because we really want you to read them,” says the sign overhead. New York Times best-selling author Brunonia Barry reads from her new novel, The Map of True Places, on June 3 at RiverRun Books, while on June 4, Karl Marlantes reads from his warmly received debut novel Matterhorn: A Novel of the Vietnam War.

Play
Consider yourself a chowder connoisseur? Head to The 26th Annual WOKQ Chowder Festival on June 5 at Prescott Park, where local chefs will be serving 500 gallons of the creamy stuff. Try each recipe and cast your vote while enjoying live music and summer sun. Known to draw over 4,000 people, the Chowder Festival is the kick-off event to the Prescott Park Arts Festival summer season of live concerts, musical productions, and dance performances.

Featuring a mix of musical artists, award-winning films, and theatrical performances every night of the week, The Music Hall operates as the city’s cultural epicenter. Upon entering the Victorian theatre, you’d never guess it was built in 1878. Ongoing renovations are responsible for the swanky Founders Lobby Lounge beneath the theatre, where you can comfortably sip a cocktail before the show. Jazz legend Herbie Hancock is set to play in the historic venue June 16 and on June 30, The Music Hall presents the Afro-Cuban All Stars.

Continue to soak up the arts with the summer productions at The Seacoast Repertory Theatre. While the theatre has been thriving for 25 years, in the last seven months, it has more than doubled its subscriber base, and the company now holds auditions for each show in New York City, in addition to the casting calls here at home. This year’s summer lineup includes the hit musical Rent, playing from June 18– July 18, and All Shook Up, from July 30–August 29. Seating just 234, The Seacoast Rep provides a rare opportunity to see rich live theatre in an intimate venue where you feel like you’re part of the show.

nsjj10_portsmouth8For those looking to be one with nature, we recommend Portsmouth Kayak Adventures. Head out to Little Harbor on the evening of July 3 for stunning views of the Portsmouth fireworks from your kayak below, or paddle to a tranquil beach respite for a revitalizing yoga class, led by local instructors. These are just some of the tours available from Portsmouth Kayak Adventures for beginner, intermediate, and advanced kayakers, allowing you to explore the coastal city from its many waterways.

When it’s time for some much-needed pampering, make your way to The Du Da Spa. From massages to skincare packages and more, this French-Moroccan salon and day spa is a great summer escape. They’ve recently added a UV skin scanner to help choose the most effective facial treatment for your skin. The scanner gives you a look beneath the surface of your skin (we admit it’s a little creepy), exposing sun damage, oil quality, collagen production, and areas in need of exfoliation. And once you’ve recovered from the shock, you’ll happily trade your sun-worshiping habits for Du Da’s all-natural spray tan. The aestheticians can customize the tone to match the pigment of your skin, giving you a safe, damage-free glow lasting for days. Of course, the spa also offers massage, hair, and nail services, so you might as well treat yourself to everything.

Eat
Start your day at The Friendly Toast, Portsmouth’s very own king of breakfast, where the outrageous menu items compete with the outlandish décor. The menu offers up standard breakfast staples alongside jazzed-up versions like Almond Joy Cakes (pancakes with coconut, almonds, and chocolate chips) and the Caribbean Waffle, made with pecans and topped with caramelized bananas. Don’t leave without trying the toast; as the name suggests, this quirky diner offers delicious homemade breads served in slices the size of your head!

A few blocks away, it’s standing room only at The Juicery, where freshly squeezed juices and smoothies are the drinks of choice. Open from April through November, The Juicery serves up fresh, organic vegan concoctions with no preservatives whatsoever. Smoothies are made with whole frozen fruit (no purees or store-bought syrups), and all the fruits and veggies are pressed in-house. Raw foodists and health nuts alike rave over the signature Prana smoothie, made with frozen strawberries and bananas, date paste, and raw almond butter.

In the center of town, you’ll find Popovers on the Square, the perfect place to grab a bite and recharge. This café/bakery serves tasty lunch items, delicious sweets, and more, but don’t be fooled by the casual vibe. Just try the Lobster Salad in a Popover, and you’ll taste the love they put into the food. Tempting pastries and cakes are on display in the glass counters, and they even serve seasonal cocktails, like sangria and a fresh fruit smoothie mixed with light rum. From breakfast to cocktails to dessert, Popovers on the Square has it all.

Summertime is really about grilling, and nothing hits the spot like a perfectly cooked burger. Lucky for you, Lexie’s Joint opened its doors early this year, and their flavorful fare has already won over the locals. “It’s just a simple menu of good food,” says co-owner and chef Dave Coffe. Having worked together off and on for the past seven years, Coffe and co-owner KC Gargill make use of their fine-dining backgrounds to pack big flavor into their four-ounce burgers. This summer, you can expect to see more seafood items popping up on the menu, including the lobster roll they have perfected, but for the most part, Lexie’s Joint is sticking to its popular tagline, “peace, love, and burgers.”

nsjj10_portsmouth12No visit to Portsmouth is complete without a trip to The Portsmouth Brewery. Beer lovers come from all over to sample the fresh, delicious craft beers exclusively brewed and served here. “We sort of stay away from big strong beers during the summer, just because, you know, they’re not very thirst-quenching,” says head brewer Tod Mott. What can you expect? Wheat beers in all their glory. Portsmouth brews Weizenheimer (an American-style wheat beer) and Hefeweizen (German-style), plus an off-shoot of the two dubbed the Thaizenheimer, made with kafir lime leaves, lemongrass, and ginger. Mott’s pick, though, is the Belgian Wit. “You’ve got both bitter and sweet orange peel, and then coriander and a little bit of pepper,” says Mott.  “And it makes for such a really great thirst-quenching beer.”

Across town you’ll find sister company Smuttynose Brewery (Peter Egelston owns each). From the outside, it’s not much to look at, but once you step inside the warehouse, where the rock music is cranked up and there’s a molasses-like aroma thick in the air, you know these guys are up to something good. Smuttynose’s summer seasonal brew is the Summer Weizen, another warm-weather-friendly wheat ale. “We spice it with a little chamomile and actually use a Belgian yeast, which gives it some fruity and spicy kind of characters,” says Executive Brewer David Yarrington. Look out for the Farmhouse Ale, brewed as part of Smuttynose’s “Big Beer Series,” which is also known to surface this time of year. This Belgian/French saison style beer was historically brewed by seasonal farm workers to drink through the summer months.

To complete your well-rounded Portsmouth beer experience, head to the Redhook Brewery. More than just a brewery, Redhook is a full-day affair. You can tour the facility, grab some grub at their very own brewpub, the Cataqua Public House, stick around for some live entertainment, and of course, sample the beer. The Rope Swing Pilsner, Redhook’s brand-new summer seasonal, should be at the top of your must-taste list. Specially brewed for warm-weather sipping, the pilsner’s dose of hops evens out the malt flavor, leaving behind a light, crisp finish. Plan your trip accordingly, and you could see Blues Traveler when they headline the 14th Annual RedhookFest on July 24.

Heading into its third year in downtown Portsmouth, The Wellington Room is somewhat hidden in its upstairs Bow Street location, but a glimpse at the rave reviews posted online proves the secret is out. With seating for up to 38 people, The Wellington Room offers an intimate dining experience with beautiful window-side water views (a rare find in the city) of the Piscataqua River. But what’s truly unique is the laid-back vibe paired with upscale fare. Owners Karen and Matthew Sharlot keep the small menu as close to farm-to-table as possible, which means frequent changes in order to feature what’s fresh and local. The Thai Cod, served with poached red bell peppers and baby bok choy is a popular pick, along with the Wellington Room Punch. This Caribbean-inspired drink came back with Karen Sharlot from her island visit. Made with five types of rum, “It’ll kick your butt,” she says with a smile.

nsjj10_portsmouth13Speaking of the Caribbean, if you can’t make a trip to the islands, The Blue Mermaid is the next best thing. Serving fresh creative combinations, like Plantain Encrusted Cod or Seafood Tagine (sautéed salmon, cod, and mahi mahi with curried tomatoes in a rich coconut fish stew), this restaurant is bound to make you try something new. Order the White Peach Sangria or the Typhoon Margarita, made with Cuervo Gold, Cointreau, sour mix, orange juice, and a splash of Grand Marnier—each a refreshing complement to your island dish of choice.

Turn down Commercial Alley to Cava’s outdoor patio, and enjoy the Afternoon Tapas, served daily from 3:30 to 5:30 pm. For dinner, head to the sleek bar downstairs, where the cave-like stone wall gives the room the feel of an underground hotspot. This chic tapas and wine bar serves a decadent array of rich, small bites, so you can sample a little bit of everything they’ve cooked up.

End your night with The Red Door’s top-notch martinis and late-night music scene. Once you’ve found this hidden spot, get ready for Portsmouth’s most creative martini bar. Try the Zen Martini, made with Yazi Ginger Vodka and chai tea. Tristan Law recently took over the Monday night music series, Hush Hush Sweet Harlot, and has a hot lineup of talented artists from New England and beyond, who play at the club as they tour the East Coast.

Where to find it

shop
Anna Street Studio, 113 Market Street, anna street.com; Attrezzi, 78 Market Street, attrezzinh.com; Bliss, 85 Market Street, blissboutiques.com; City and Country, 50 Daniel Street; Federal Cigar, 22 Ladd Street, federalcigar.com; Macro Polo, 89 and 93 Market Street; Making Faces, 65 Bow Street; RiverRun Books, 20 Congress Street, riverrunbookstore.com; Serendipity, 41 Pleasant Street, serendipitynh.com; The Three Graces Gallery, 105 Market Street, thethreegraces.com.

play
The Du Da Spa, 53 Green Street, thedudaspa.com; The Music Hall, 28 Chestnut Street, themusic hall.org; Portsmouth Kayak Adventures, 185 Wentworth Road, ports mouthkayak.com; Prescott Park, prescottpark.org; Seacoast Repertory Theater, 125 Bow Street, seacoastrep.org.

eat
The Blue Mermaid, 409 The Hill, bluemermaid.com; Cava, 10 Commercial Alley #1, cavatapasand winebar.com; The Friendly Toast, 121 Congress Street, thefriendlytoast.net; The Juicery, 51 Hanover St, portsmouthjuicery.com; Lexie’s Joint, 212 Islington Street, lexiesjoint.com; Popovers on the Square, Portsmouth, popoversonthesquare.com;  Portsmouth Brewery, 56 Market Street, portsmouthbrewery.com; The Red Door, 107 State St., reddoorportsmouth.com. Redhook Brewery, 35 Corporate Drive, redhook.com; Smuttynose Brewery, 225 Heritage Ave., smutty nose.com; The Wellington Room, 67 Bow Street, thewellingtonroom.com.

High Society

nsjj10_ne_travelWhether it’s  for a long weekend or the entire summer, Nantucket is ready to roll out the red carpet for you.

You don’t have to be the owner of a 200-foot yacht or an international playboy to enjoy the summer on Nantucket, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. Grab your bathing suit, pack the car (or the helicopter), and whisk yourself away to this getaway for the rich and famous. Continue reading High Society

Freeport, Maine

nsam10_travel_1-copyKnown for years as a discount destination, Freeport, Maine turns up the charm and rolls out the red carpet.

Leon Leonwood Bean took an idea for keeping feet dry and started an empire, all in the quite calm of Freeport, Maine. But this seaside outlet haven is more than just a shopper’s delight. Thanks to recent upgrades and great eats, Freeport is the perfect getaway.  Continue reading Freeport, Maine

Lenox, Massachusetts

nsfm10_travel_1After a few days of pampering in the literary haven of Lenox, Massachusetts, you may not want to go home. By Jillian Ducharme

What was once the home to famed authors Nathaniel Hawthorne and Catharine Sedgwick, Lenox is now bursting with art, culture, and local flavor. This western Massachusetts enclave makes for the perfect mid-winter escape. Continue reading Lenox, Massachusetts

Ski and Ride Guide 2010

Ski and Ride Guide 2010

nsfm10_skifeature_1

The 10 best places in New England to ski and snowboard this season. By Jack Morris. Photograph above by Greg Petrics.

nsfm10_skifeature_2Jay Peak: trails: 76; lifts: 8; lift tickets: $67
If there’s one thing skiers and riders don’t have to worry about at Jay Peak, it’s snow. With over 350 inches of the white stuff each year, some of the best glades, a liberal policy about skiing pretty much anywhere, and honest snow reporting (if it’s raining or it’s 20 below, they might just tell you to stay off the hill), Jay could be one of the finest places on the East Coast to make turns.

If you can snag a place in the tram line early in the morning (and if your legs can handle it), it’s tough to beat first tracks down the Face Chutes when there’s new snow. But when it’s all buffed out, a few laps on The Jet could bring a tear to your eye.

Where Jay has typically fallen short has been off-mountain amenities and a virtually non-existent village. But as part of a major long-term expansion plan that includes a hotel, ice rink, and Nordic center, Jay opens the doors this season to the long-awaited Tram Haus Lodge, a mix of 57 studios, one- and two-bedroom suites, a new restaurant, coffee shop, and a bar that looks out on the mountain. Yes, it’s a bit of a drive. And yes, it’s well worth it. 4850 Vermont Rte. 242, Jay, VT, 800-451-4449, jaypeakresort.com.

Loon: trails: 55; lifts: 12; lift tickets: $73
Standing at the top of the Loon Mountain Park, one of the resort’s five terrain parks and arguably the biggest and baddest of the bunch, it’s easy to see why this mountain has transformed itself from a family-friendly day trip destination to a jibber’s weekend paradise. With over 30 jumps and terrain features, as well as a 425-foot superpipe and quarter pipe that seems to reach as high as the gondola, this is where skiers and snowboarders from all over New England come for massive hang time.

But Loon is also famous for its groomers. Head straight to the summit with the stiff boards in tow and let it fly down Cant Dog or head over to the Lincoln Express quad  and carve into the sunny slopes of Boom Run or the bumps of Ripsaw. The new South Peak Resort is adding a touch of luxury to the area with on-mountain homesites starting at $400,000, but there are also plenty of options in the town of Lincoln with shuttle service to the hill. 60 Loon Mountain Rd., Lincoln, NH, 800-229-5666, loonmtn.com.

nsfm10_skifeature_4Smugglers’ Notch: trails: 78; lifts: 8; lift tickets: $62
Don’t let the family-friendly reputation fool you. Above the village center, slopeside condos, and low-angle groomers lie plenty of  steeps and secret stashes. With close to 300 inches of snowfall each year and lift ticket rates that leave enough cash in your wallet for a few apres-ski pops, Smuggs is easily the best bang for your buck. Head to the summit of Madonna early for a screamer down Liftline, then take your pick of any of the resort’s long cruisers while the kids get five-star treatment at the ski school.

The resort’s Snow Sport University ski and snowboard camp is helping to keep your kids entertained all day this season by outfitting them with Flaik GPS units that will track the miles, vertical, and trails skied each day. Smuggs also rewards its visitors with plenty of off-mountain options including airboarding (think sledding, but more intense), a Nordic center, outdoor skating rink, teen centers, The FunZone, and more. There’s also a mountain massage center, arts and crafts center,  and more options in nearby Jeffersonville. 4323 Vermont Rte. 108 South, Smugglers’ Notch, VT, 800-419-4616, smuggs.com.

Sunday River: trails: 132; lifts: 16; lift tickets: $79
Celebrating its 50th year this season, Sunday River has come a long way. And by long, we mean it’s going to take you some time to explore all eight peaks, so you better have a plan of attack. An early morning run or two down Spruce Peak is a good call, but if you don’t mind riding a few lifts, make your way over to Oz and Jordan Bowl before the crowds get there and you’ll be rewarded with either first tracks or some smooth corduroy, not to mention sweeping views of New Hampshire’s Presidential Range and Mt. Washington. If bumps are your thing, leave the kids to the terrain parks at the base of North Peak and Barker Mountain, then go show off on White Heat or stick to the more narrow and wind-protected runs of Top Gun and Right Stuff.

No matter where you make turns, you’re going to need a place to rest your head, and with plenty of on-mountain condos, making that last run of the day means skiing or riding right into your living room. But pampering is something Sunday River also does well. New upgrades at both Sunday River Grand Resort Hotels mean you can now sack out in front of a 42-inch flat-screen after a wild night at the Foggy Goggle. 15 South Ridge Rd., Newry, ME, 207-824-3000, sundayriver.com.

Stowe: trails: 116; lifts: 13; lift tickets: $89
As you wind your way up Stowe’s Mountain Road, there’s one turn that usually brings about the same reaction each time as the massive ridge of Mt. Mansfield comes into view: jaws tend to drop and stomachs tighten. Fly down the rollers of Lord and Hayride on any given morning and you’ll see why. Or head over to Nosedive and reach top speed on your new boards, then tackle the bumps of Goat on the next run.

For beginners and families, Spruce Peak’s tamer and sunnier slopes make carving turns memorable. With some of the best snow around (and conversely, some of the windiest conditions), classic runs that don’t always follow the fall line, and unbeatable backcountry terrain, Stowe makes it all worthwhile. The addition of the Stowe Mountain Lodge last season upped the ante ever more. The $400 million resort brought lush accommodations and a dedication to service more commonly found at Aspen and Deer Valley. Of course, there’s always the Rusty Nail down the road if your version of entertainment includes live music and shots of Jagermeister. 5781 Mountain Rd., Stowe, VT, 800-253-4754, stowe.com.

nsfm10_skifeature_9Killington: trails: 141; lifts: 22; lift tickets: $82
With six peaks, five base areas, five terrain parks, a 430-foot superpipe (with 18-foot walls), a seemingly endless network of lifts and trails, and a town that rivals Newburyport for its variety of bars, restaurants, and shops, Killington is unquestionably the “Beast of the East.” If you know how navigate the mountain, a good day at Killington will leave your legs sore and your belly ready for a full meal.

Head straight for the Skye Peak quad with a lap or two on Skyeburst, then tackle Bear Mountain’s steeps. Beginners have it made at Killington with their own learning area at Snowshed, as well as some great intermediate runs down Ramshead. While the area sees less snow on average than some of its northern neighbors, Killington makes up for it with unbeatable snowmaking. A trail that looked like an ice rink in the afternoon can turn into a buffed-out carving paradise by morning.

Take your pick from just about any type of lodging at Killington; there’s plenty to go around. The plush Killington Grand Resort Hotel and Spa is a top choice, while slopeside condos abound. Don’t forget to stop by  the Long Trail Brewery in Bridgewater for a few pints by the fire. 4763 Killington Road, Killington, VT, 800-621-6867, killington.com.

Bretton Woods: trails: 101; lifts: 10; lift tickets: $74
If you haven’t been to Bretton Woods lately, it might surprise you to learn that it’s now the largest resort in New Hampshire with four terrain parks, expert glades that you’d expect to find at Stowe or Jay Peak, and a wild zip line that hurls your carcass above the tree line straight down the mountain. Lapping runs off the Zephyr quad is a great way to warm up the thighs. Once you’re ready, and if the snow’s right, duck into the Rosebrook Canyon Glades or any of the double blacks on West Mountain. This is Bretton Woods? You betcha.

What hasn’t changed are the views of Mt. Washington, which make you feel as if you can reach out and touch the Cog Railway. On-mountain accommodations include an assortment of condos  but if you’re going to do it right, book a room at the upgraded Mount Washington Hotel, where crystal chandeliers and four-course dinners await, along with a nightcap at The Cave, easily one of the coolest taverns around. Route 302, Bretton Woods, NH, 800-314-1752, brettonwoods.com.

nsfm10_skifeature_11Sugarloaf: trails: 138; lifts: 15; lift tickets: $75
Some might say that the long drive into central Maine to reach Sugarloaf is the reason they don’t go there. Let’s hope more people feel this way because once you’re here, you have access to some of the best skiing and snowboarding in New England.
On powder days, Sugarloaf offers a couple of great options. Hop the Sugarloaf Superquad early, make your way to the summit, pick a line down the Snowfields, then do a couple laps in King Pine Bowl. With over 2,800 vertical feet of skiing and riding, it’s hard not to feel the burn.

If you’ve still got any juice left in your quads after lunch, go for greatness in one of the three terrain parks; a 400-foot-long superpipe, minipipe, and a skiercross course; or cool down under the Timberline triple.

Want to really spoil yourself? Book a three-level penthouse suite at the recently upgraded Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel, where a private sauna and hot tub await as well as easy access to the shops and restaurants in the village center. That’s a good thing, because after a burger from The Bag and a few Carrabassett Pale Ales at the Widowmaker, you’ll be glad your room is only steps away. 5092 Access Rd., Carrabassett Valley, ME, 800-843-5623, sugarloaf.com.

Sugarbush: trails: 111; lifts: 16; lift tickets: $82
With a combination of groomers, bumps, steeps, terrain parks, and high-speed lifts nestled in a classic Vermont ski town, Sugarbush makes it hard to drive home after a long weekend. When the snow’s good (which it tends to be in this neck of the woods), calling out sick on Monday morning from the lift line isn’t uncommon.

Start with a warm-up off the Valley House Double on Lincoln Peak, then make your way over to Heaven’s Gate and charge down Ripcord or Paradise, or just scrap the warm-up altogether and make a beeline to Castle Rock if there’s fresh powder. In the afternoon, hop on the Slide Brook Express for some cruisers on Mt. Ellen or some big air in the terrain parks. This season, the ‘Bush has added 75 acres of new glades. The resort also offers snowcat skiing when there’s a storm and the option to tour the backcountry with longtime local and ski movie star John Egan.

You can’t go wrong booking a room on the mountain at the luxurious Clay Brook, but there are also plenty of homes and condos in the valley and in nearby Waitsfield to suit anyone’s needs. 1840 Sugarbush Access Rd. Warren, VT, 800-531-8421, sugarbush.com.

nsfm10_skifeature_13Waterville Valley: trails: 52; lifts: 12; lift tickets: $67
For classic mountain towns in New Hampshire, it’s hard to beat Waterville Valley. The Town Square features a skating rink, a grocery store, and multiple restaurants and shops all surrounded by high peaks.

Because of its proximity to Boston, buses unload passengers by the hundreds in Waterville Valley, so be sure to get in line for the White Peak Express quad when the bell rings. If you are, you’ll be treated to some of the best cruising around, thanks to 100 percent snowmaking coverage. Roll over those edges and feel the wind scream through your helmet on runs like The Chute and Sel’s Choice. In the afternoon, after a sandwich and a cup of coffee at the Schwendi Hut, soak up the rays while lapping the Sunnyside triple on Ciao and True Grit.

Waterville has also gone out of its way in recent years to build up its terrain parks. Four different sections of the mountain are dedicated to jibbers with plenty of rails, boxes, and a 350-foot-long superpipe with 15-foot walls and its own Poma lift. Add to all of that a great racing program; an assortment of learn-to-ski and ride programs; multiple lodges, inns, and condos, and you’ve got a resort that’s worth moving to. 1 Ski Area Rd., Waterville Valley, NH, 800-468-2553, waterville.com.

Waitsfield, Vermont

As the hub of picturesque mad River Valley in the heart of Vermont’s Green Mountains, Waitsfield delivers charm, luxury, and relaxation all in one. Continue reading Waitsfield, Vermont

North Conway, NH

nson09_travel_1Autumn in New Hampshire flourishes in North Conway Village. Perched in the White Mountains, leaf peepers trek up here to take in the sights but also to enjoy some of that classic New England Yankee spice. Continue reading North Conway, NH

Bar Harbor, Maine

nsas09_barharbor_1The great outdoors (and indoors) of Bar Harbor, Maine.

By Sarah A. Ditkoff

Known in the late 19th century as the summer escape for many of America’s wealthiest elite (as well as the birthplace of Nelson Rockefeller), Bar Harbor, Maine is still polka-dotted with luxe hotels and mansions. But it’s the salty-dog attitude of local New Englanders who give it flavor. Just turn a corner on any street in “Bah Hahbah” and you’re bound to find an eclectic and memorable experience.

EAT
From the homey wooden tables of Looking Glass Restaurant, look one way to see Frenchman’s Bay and another to take in Acadia National Park. Chef Montes stresses that good food is all about the best ingredients and practiced preparation. 50 Eden St., 888-439-8439, wonderviewinn.com. 2 Cats is a cozy bed and breakfast popular among locals for morning meals. Savor hot chocolate served in oversized mugs and edible flowers nestled between lobster omelets and muffins with strawberry butter. 130 Cottage St., 207-288-2808, 2catsbarharbor. com. No trip to Bar Harbor would be complete without a stop at Geddy’s Pub. On brightly painted chairs, try not to chuckle with your mouth full over munchies called “Sea Balls,” “Spam on the Half Shell,” and “Salmon Guppies.” 19 Main St., 207-288-5077, geddys.com.

SEE
Besides enjoying the obvious beauty of Acadia National Park, take your pick of bicycling, hiking, swimming, boating, camping, and more. Kids can visit the Nature Center or take part in the Junior Ranger Program. Don’t forget your granola! Rt. 33, McFarland Hill, 207-288-3338, nps.gov/acad. From September 17 to 21, celebrate natural wonders at the Acadia Night Sky Festival through exploration, ecology, astronomy, and the arts in this brand new festival. nightskyfestival.org. Swing by the Bar Harbor Inn between August 14 and 16 to get your paws on some one-of-a-kind art produced by both local and not-so-local artists at the 2nd Annual Bar Harbor Fine Arts Festival. Newport Dr., 207-244-9107, barharborinfo.com/events.

STAY
Located only a couple of blocks from Main Street, the Black Friar Inn & Pub’s quirky rooms each voice different Medieval personalities. 10 Summer St., 207-288-5091, blackfriarinn.com. Ready to spoil yourself? The Harborside Hotel and Marina is the town’s newest luxury hotel with two restaurants, a lounge, pool bar, marina, and spa. 55 West St., 207-288-5033, theharborsidehotel.com. Opened in 1903, Balance Rock Inn has undergone a facelift, which hasn’t detracted from its “Gilded Age” ambiance and beauty. 21 Albert Meadow, 800-753-0494, balancerockinn.com. —Sarah Ditkoff

Northampton Getaway

nsjj09_northampton_1

Nestled in the Berkshire foothills, Northampton—endearingly called Noho, in reference to its booming artist community—is thick with culinary, cultural, and outdoor adventures. Here are a few highlights for a summer weekend visit.

Eat
From June 1 to 7, the 4th annual Northampton Restaurant Week (northamptonrestaurantweek.com) showcases specials and deals at more than a dozen town restaurants, including the stylish Zen. With creative takes on Japanese fare (try the sushi “tacos”) and sleek urban decor, it’s the best of Noho’s many sushi joints. 41 Main St., 413-582-6888, zennorthampton. com.
Toasted Owl Tavern The latest addition to the town’s thriving pub scene, with grand windows overlooking Main Street, is ideal for post-show snacking and people-watching, and occasional live jazz. 21 Main St., 413-585-5088, toasted owltavern.com.
Sylvester’s Pancake enthusiasts know to get to the former home of Sylvester Graham before 9, or else endure arduous waits for gut-busters like caramel apple pancakes and huevos rancheros. 111 Pleasant St., 413-586-1418.

See

The Academy of Music Theater From the 19th century balcony of this historic theater, fans long ago watched stars like Mae West and Harry Houdini. These weekend getaway days, it’s the best place to catch an indie film, live-action play, or author reading. 274 Main St., 413-584-8435, academyofmusictheatre.com.
The Smith College Museum of Art Stop in for classics from Monet to Manet, Courbet to Cezanne; visiting exhibits by cutting edge artists like photographer Lauren Greenfield; and a truly impressive permanent collection of Bauhaus Modern and Sol LeWitt. Elm St. at Bedford Terrace, 413-585-2760, smith.edu.
R. Michelson Galleries If you’re looking for art to take home, this bi-level gallery shows works by local artists, as well as walls and walls of original children’s book drawings by well-known illustrators. 132 Main St., 413-586-3964, rmichelson.com.
Dynamite Records Rock out at the area’s longest-running indie record store, which boasts an outstanding assortment of new and vintage vinyl, new and used CDs, and $1 bins, known to reliably produce a treasure or two. 150 Main St., 413-584-1580, dynamiterecords.com.

Stay
Hotel Northampton The majestic 82-year-old hotel is well-kept, impeccably served, and conveniently located smack in the middle of town. 36 King St., 413-584-3100, hotelnorthampton.com.

Sugar Maple Inn Just beyond Northampton center, the cozy, two-room bed and breakfast overlooks one of the area’s many scenic hiking and biking trails—which will expand this year—and has loaner bikes on hand. 62 Chestnut St., 413-585-8559, sugar-maple-inn.com. —Alyssa Giacobbe

Portland, Maine

The prohibition movement planted roots here in 1815 but since then, Portland, Maine has steadily established itself as the state’s (and some might argue, the region’s) social trend-setter. Here are a few of the newer and more notable spots to check off your hit list for a weekend getaway to Maine’s cultural capital. Continue reading Portland, Maine

Vermont Resort Delivers on High-End Promise

Ask a friend about a luxurious winter resort around these parts and you’ll likely be faced with a blank stare and a finger pointing in the direction of Aspen, Colorado, or Deer Valley, Utah. Fortunately for us, the new Stowe Mountain Lodge in Stowe, Vermont has redefined high-end luxury vacationing in northern New England. Continue reading Vermont Resort Delivers on High-End Promise

Great New England Winter Getaways

Book these hot winter New England resort getaways now! Continue reading Great New England Winter Getaways

Own a Piece of Bermuda

Equity Residence Club is your ticket to a great Bermudian address for a fraction of the price. Continue reading Own a Piece of Bermuda

Grand Bahama Island

We packed our bags for a trip to Grand Bahama Island—just the two of us. Continue reading Grand Bahama Island

The Musical Phoenix

Despite devastation, “Fest” returns Continue reading The Musical Phoenix

On a Tank-full: Newport

Pack the car, fill up, and hit the road for Newport! Continue reading On a Tank-full: Newport

Wentworth by the Sea

Nestled on New Castle Island, Wentworth by the Sea is one of the last grand hotels in New Hampshire, an easy hour-and-15 from the North Shore of Massachusetts. Continue reading Wentworth by the Sea

Romantic Getaways

If you love to ski, snowboard, bike, hike, or just explore while taking in the most spectacular mountain views, Stowe, Vermont, is the perfect spot for you. Continue reading Romantic Getaways

Cape Ann Grand Dames For Rent

Mansions make a magnificent home away from home. Continue reading Cape Ann Grand Dames For Rent

A Mountain of Summer Fun at a Storied Hotel

“The summers of your youth aren’t lost. You just have to know where to find them.” Continue reading A Mountain of Summer Fun at a Storied Hotel

Fall for Spooktacular Travel

Concord Colonial Inn’s haunting hospitality: Some guests never check out … of Room 24. Continue reading Fall for Spooktacular Travel

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