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Travel To Danvers

The witchcraft Victims’ Memorial in a quiet corner of Danvers is one of those blink-and-you’ll-miss-it historic sites, but it bears witness to one of the darkest chapters in early American history. “Burn me or hang me,” reads a quotation attributed to George Jacobs, one of 25 people who died as a result of the 1692 Salem Village Witchcraft Hysteria, “but I will stand in the truth of Christ. I know nothing of witchcraft.”

Located at 176 Hobart Street, directly opposite the original site of the Meeting House, where most of the witchcraft examinations took place, the simple and poignant granite memorial provides an unbreakable link between the Danvers of today and the Salem Village of a bygone age. The “new” Salem may have secured the bragging rights to its infamous Witch Trials, but it’s the old Salem Village—which changed its name to Danvers in a district restructure in 1752—where the fear and hysteria first broke out and led to the deaths of 25 men and women, all of whom proclaimed their innocence to the end.

The Witchcraft Victim's Memorial

“It earned Salem Village a very bad reputation, which it carried for generations,” says Danvers Town Archivist Richard Trask. “So, when the District of Danvers was created in 1752, the people of Salem Village were very happy to lose that name.”

Time is also a great healer, and while the witchcraft spotlight is now set on Salem, Danvers has come to accept and commemorate its history in a quiet, respectful way.

“Danvers doesn’t yell about its witchcraft heritage,” says Trask. “Our sites are not big, flashy tourist attractions, and when people visit, they like the fact that we don’t make it into a money-making situation.”

Anyone with even a passing interest in history and architecture will love Danvers, a hard-working and steadfast town that has carefully preserved many significant houses and buildings dating back to the earliest settlement of Massachusetts. The historic district, stretching from Pine Street in the south to Maple Street in the north, contains eight important sites—including the beautiful Rebecca Nurse Homestead (circa 1678) and magnificent Glen Magna Farms estate (circa 1798)—all of which are open to the public seasonally or by appointment with the Danvers Historical Society. Another 125 notable private residences spanning four centuries can be viewed easily from the street.

Arguably the finest building in downtown is the Peabody Institute Library (see “Crown Jewel”), built in 1892 with money donated by native son George Peabody. Located next to Mill Pond in Sylvan Street, this outstanding Georgian Revival building bears a striking resemblance to the White House and has been used as its substitute in a number of films and documentaries.

While Danvers embraces its past—“We take our history very seriously,” says Town Manager Wayne Marquis—all eyes are on an increasingly bright future with a strong focus on education, employment, and family values. More than $250 million is being pumped into education projects alone, with renovations and additions to Danvers High School and North Shore Community College, not to mention the anticipated merger between the renowned Essex Agricultural and Technical High School and North Shore and Peabody Vocational Technical schools.

MGH has invested $100 million in a new outpatient care facility here, and several other major employers, including Osram Sylvania, are helping to fuel employment, growth, and confidence. With two industrial parks, three malls, a thousand hotel rooms, numerous car dealerships, dentists, cosmetic surgeons, restaurants, and small businesses, Danvers appears to be riding out today’s economic uncertainties.

“We have a diverse commercial and industrial base,” says Marquis. “We’re a fiscally conservative town, paying our way as we go and operating within budget. We don’t have all of our eggs in one basket.”

Community spirit also runs high. The town rallied after a chemical explosion in 2006, raising $500,000 in private donations for those who lost their homes, and a new summer program called Project Sunshine launched last year to assist homeless families in the community. It’s a far cry from the dark days of the Salem Village Witchcraft Hysteria, but like those defiant souls who went to their deaths defending their innocence, the people of Danvers don’t take anything lying down.

Salem may be the witch-kitsch capital of the world, but Danvers is the real deal—and not a broomstick or pointy hat in sight.

The Details - Date of Settlement: 1637. Date of Incorporation: 1757. Zip code: 01923. Population: 26,493. Total Area: 13.5 square miles. Median household income: $58,779. Schools: St. John’s Prep; Holten Richmond Middle School; Danvers High School; Essex Agricultural & Technical High School. Notable residents: John Endicott, first Governor of Massachusetts; Rebecca Nurse, hanged for witchcraft; John Greenleaf Whittier, poet; Mark Bavaro, former New York Giants tight end; Erin McLean, Jeopardy! winner.

Crown Jewel - The Peabody Institute Library is guardian to some of the rarest books in America

Peabody Institute Library

Danvers may not shout about its witchcraft heritage, but it does everything in its power to preserve and protect it. For the past 40 years, town archivist Richard Trask has been acquiring, documenting, and safeguarding the Brehaut Witchcraft Collection—the world’s largest compendium of imprints relating to the 1692 Salem Village Witchcraft Hysteria—keeping it under lock and key in downtown’s imposing Peabody Institute Library.

“The witchcraft is our crown jewel,” he says, with more than a hint of pride. “It’s what gives us notoriety around the country, and we have a complete collection here being preserved for future generations.”

Stored in a humidity-controlled vault in the library’s Archival Center, the collection includes rare books, manuscripts, and imprints documenting the witchcraft era and dating back to the 17th century, as well as other precious items, including two original copies of the Declaration of Independence. While the collection isn’t on public display, Trask has shared its contents with many documentary makers, writers, and scholars. He is currently working with Pulitzer Prize-winning author Stacy Schiff, who is researching a new book on Salem witchcraft.

 

On the Town -There’s a lot to discover in Danvers

Glen Magna Farms This beautiful estate was first occupied in the 1790s. It was  bought in 1814 by wealthy Salem shipping merchant Capt. Joseph Peabody and later embellished by his granddaughter, Ellen Peabody Endicott. The mansion and gardens recall the golden age of American architecture. Ingersoll Street, 978-774-9165. Derby Summer House Tucked away in the grounds of Glen Magna, Derby Summer House is a delightful Federal-style garden house built in 1794 for wealthy Salem merchant Elias Hasket Derby and moved here in 1901. The house has a walled rose garden designed by Herbert Browne. 978-777-1666. Rebecca

Treats at Cakes for Occasions

Nurse Homestead Little has changed here since Rebecca Nurse was hanged on charges of witchcraft in 1692. The estate, now owned by the Danvers Alarm List Company, an 18th-century reenactment group, consists of her original home, the cemetery where she is believed to be buried, and a recreation of the Salem Village Meeting House. 149 Pine Street, 978-774-8799. Putnam House Twelve generations of Putnams lived in this elegant house (circa 1648), including Joseph, who famously spoke out against the Witchcraft Hysteria in 1692. Its best-known resident was General Israel Putnam, who commanded the troops at the Battle of Bunker Hill. 431 Maple Street, 978-777-1666. 

 

Cakes for Occasions Nationally acclaimed pastry chef Kelly Delaney is best known for her custom-made wedding and special occasion cakes, but her store also offers an array of scrumptious buttercream-frosted cupcakes, European-style tarts and pastries, and other lip-smacking treats. 57 Maple Street, 978-774-4545, cakes4occasions.com. 9 Elm American Bistro Chef Matt Sanidas continues to wow diners at his beloved bistro. Enjoy a specialty martini or local craft beer before tucking into a succulent filet mignon or pan-seared scallops with truffle-whipped potato. 9 Elm Street, 978-774-9436. Cherry Farm Creamery A Danvers institution since 1976, this fun creamery serves 30 flavors of ice creams, as well as low-fat soft serve, frozen yogurts, ice cream cakes, sorbets, and other family favorites. 210 Conant Street, 978-774-0519. Danversport Yacht Club The lively yacht club is a great spot for a relaxed lunch or dinner during summer months. The welcoming Grille and Bistro serves good food, and the breezy outdoor patio overlooks manicured gardens, the harbor, and marina. 161 Elliott Street, 978-774-8621. 7 Grill The new kid on the Danvers dining scene has lucky number 7 as its signature theme, but it doesn’t need any luck serving up premium-quality meats and seafood that are deliciously seasoned and fresh from the grill. 194 Endicott Street, 978-646-9911.

 

Destination Georgetown

With fewer than 10,000 residents, Georgetown is nonetheless a bustling village with big-town offerings.

In the rural yet humming enclave of Georgetown, the fire department’s noon whistle sounds daily. You can sit on a stool at the local hangout, Jimmy K’s, for lunch and see your friends. You can haul your junk to Mello’s, and they’ll take it. You don’t have to go the mall to get your nails done—instead, go to LeBa’s Nails on Central Street—or shop for a discount wedding dress (for that, there’s Tulle Bridal Designer Outlet on West Main Street). Then there’s Crosby’s market, which provides “on the go” homemade soups and salads, plus wine and beer tastings.

This small New England village was incorporated in 1883, when those living in the West Parish broke away from Rowley and established their own town. Farming, shoemaking, and sawmills all helped Georgetown grow and prosper. It’s a town full of handsome 19th-century wood clapboard houses lining back roads with names like Elm, Maple, Winter, Brook, and Pingree Farm. Georgetown is easily accessible; Routes 97 and 133 cut through east/west and north/south on the way to Andover, Boxford, Haverhill, Rowley, or Newbury. It’s a short hop to I-495 or I-95 to Boston or New Hampshire. Push the walk button at the traffic light on Main and Central Streets, and people zooming by on their way to somewhere else happily stop for you.

“Georgetown is finally recognized as a diamond in the rough,” says Steve Horne, a 25-year resident. “The rural setting [that is] a half hour to most anywhere—Boston, Portsmouth, the beaches, the malls—and a couple of hours or less to the mountains has made it a gem for rural living.”

One of the great things about Georgetown is that townspeople pitch in to make the town tick. The “Bob committee” runs Camp Denison (the majority of members happens to be named Bob, hence its name) with a host of 25 enthusiastic volunteers. “Without the volunteers, Camp Denison would not exist,” says Bob Gorton, who has lived here for nearly 50 years. Camp Denison on Baldpate Pond, established in 1931 as an inner city camp, includes the Great Lodge where Amelia Earhart once scanned the skies from its rooftop and Aldo Leopold developed nature programs.

In Georgetown, retirees stick around to take their grandchildren to sports practice and volunteer to keep the town going. Adding to the hometown feel is the fact Georgetown has its own schools, as well as its own electric company, so you won’t lose power for very long during an outage.

 

“[Georgetown] has grown from a fairly insular town to one that is very open, hip, and fun,” says Donna Capodelupo, news editor for the Georgetown Record. Funky old stores, like Meader’s General Store, which sells both antiques and penny candy, wouldn’t survive Main Street America in most towns, but this town appreciates antiques. Take Sedler’s Antiques as an example (see “On The Town”). The Historical Society, lead by Chris Komiskey, sits proudly in the Brocklebank-Nelson-Beecher House, first built in 1668 and later bought in 1858 by Rev. Charles Beecher, brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of Uncle Tom’s Cabin.

Outdoor activities abound in Georgetown. It has two ponds, Rock and Pentucket, the latter of which has the town beach. The Black Swan Country Club has one of the best public golf courses on the North Shore. Residents enjoy strolling through the Georgetown Rowley State Forest, which connects to the Boxford State Forest and goes for miles. Georgetown Fish and Game has its own clubhouse on Pentucket Pond.

History is alive and well here, too. The original cannon “Old Nancy,” taken from a British ship off Cape Ann in the Revolutionary War (and allegedly stolen from Rowley in the early 19th century), is on display in the Town Hall basement. The Erie 4 Fire Company, established in 1854, is the oldest privately owned and operated volunteer fire company in the country; it stays solvent through inventive fundraisers.

Janet Pantano, administrative assistant to the Board of Selectmen, moved here decades ago for the “small town feel” of the place that has only 100 kids in the graduating high school class and where everyone can play on a team if they want. Church fairs, ham and bean suppers, parades—that’s why she’s here.

Georgetown has a lot to be proud of—and for residents to enjoy—in this laid-back-but-happening town.

The Details: Date of Settlement: 1639 Date of Incorporation: 1838 Zip Code: 01833 Population: 8,183 Total Area: 13.2 square miles Median Household Income: $76,260 Schools: Perley and Penn Brook Elementary Schools, Georgetown Middle-High School. Notable Residents: Brian St. Pierre (football player), Jenny Thompson (U.S. Olympic swimmer), Terry O’Reilly (hockey player), John Updike (author), Paul Harding (author), Charles Beecher (brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe).

The Black Swan Country Club

In the Club – The run-down Georgetown Country Club experiences a rebirth as the Black Swan Two years ago, the fairways at the old Georgetown Country Club were overgrown. The restaurant and function rooms were quiet, the parking lot empty. In June 2010, the venue reopened as the Black Swan Country Club, and all that changed.

The club’s new ownership renovated the 18-hole par-72 golf course and brought back the manicured grounds. Today, patrons can buy range balls in the pro shop and sharpen their short game on the practice green. Two PGA golfers offer careful instruction.

The off-season in January and February is one of the best times to dine at the award-winning Keon’s Grille, which is open to the public. The grille menu is offered daily for lunch and dinner, except Mondays. Friday and Saturday night a live band performs. The Sunday brunch with music by local singer Dan Sky is extremely popular. In summer, the outdoor patio near the 18th hole is a big draw, but in January, Keon’s owner Alan Boisvert offers specials to lure diners.

With revamped function spaces, weddings are booked through 2014, but in slower months, function rooms host comedy, music, and dance events for the public.  Things are looking up at the Black Swan and in Georgetown,  which now has something new and special to offer. 258 Andover St., 978-352-2900, blackswancountryclub.com

The essential stops for your Georgetown visit.

Sedler’s Village Antiques Owners Bob and Pat Sedler have added gleaming American-made wood furniture, some of which Bob designs himself, to their dazzling array of antiques, collectables, vintage clothes, lamps, jewelry, dolls, and more. Located in a rambling 1860 Victorian farmhouse, Sedler’s was one of the North Shore’s first antique co-ops. There is so much here, it’s hard to describe everything, so it’s best to go look for yourself. Pat says her husband insists on being open seven days a week, so you can drop by anytime. 51 W. Main St., 978-352-8282, sedlersvillage.com.

Rory O'Connor's Irish Pub

Instant Replays Most kids (and their feet) grow so fast that their soccer shoes and ski boots are still like new before they no longer fit. That’s what Todd Newton counts on as he resells used athletic equipment, including mountain bikes, snowboards, basketball shirts, and even pogo sticks, all in good condition (he’s picky) and at great prices. Post Office Building, 64 Central St., 978-768-7541.

Pentucket Pond The pond is stocked every spring with rainbow trout and sometimes browns and brookies, as well as largemouth bass. The Georgetown Fish and Game Club holds an annual ice fishing derby, but if you’re not into fishing, the skating is just fine. 11 Lake Ave., 978-352-9831, georgetownfishandgame.com.

Rory O’Connor’s Irish Pub Come for the traditional Irish pub food—Guinness beef stew, fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, chicken curry, and homemade bread pudding—plus a fire in the big stone hearth and live Irish music Tuesday and Sunday. You’ll think you’re back in Galway, which is just how new owner Mike Beatty wants it. 19 W. Main St., 978-769-5053, roryoconnorsishpub.com.

Georgetown-Rowley State Park Watch the woods fill up with snow as you cross-country ski or snowshoe through a winter wonderland. Bring your dog: This 1,112-acre forest provides plenty of trees and trails to keep him busy. Pingree Farm Road, 978-887-5931. mass.gov/dcr/parks/northeast/grow.htm.

Nunan Florist and Greenhouses This 86-year-old greenhouse grows thousands of its own plants in 20 greenhouses that owners Bill Guerrini and Steve Flynn—along with no fewer than five floral designers and expert horticulturalists—tend to with TLC. 269 Central St. (Route 97), 978-352-8179, nunans.com.

Pratt Hobby Shop Pratt’s has managed to stay afloat for 35 years, offering all things fast–Traxxas racing trucks (zero to 60 mph in 4.2 seconds!), sailboats, and remote- control airplanes. It also hosts remote-control races and offers model airplane flying lessons. 20 E. Main St., 800-870-4068, pratthobbyshop.com.

Twisdenwood Horse Farm Jill Bowden offers lessons for children and adults, beginner to advanced, using the farm’s  four roomy barns, three riding rings (one indoor), and open grass hacking track. Tally ho! 240 Andover St., 978-314-8258, twisdenwoodfarm.com

History In Lynnfield

Lynnfield Common

Just inside the stone gateway to Lynnfield’s Old Burying Ground, which dates back to 1728, is a tombstone flanked by two Stars and Stripes. It’s a simple, almost nondescript memorial, but it bears the names of—and a direct link to—one of the most important moments in American history.

“Here lie Soldiers of the Revolution” reads the epitaph, followed by an honor roll of 10 men who made the ultimate sacrifice in defense of town and country. Halfway down the list is Daniel Townsend, one of 49 killed on April 19, 1775, but the most fascinating of all is Martin Herrick, who met Paul Revere and gave the famous “The British are coming!” alarm in the other direction.

Had Longfellow based his iconic poem on Herrick instead of Revere, Lynnfield (or South Lynn, as it was then) would be as famous as Boston, but this small and delightful town in Essex County is no less proud of the significant role it played.

History runs deep in Lynnfield, a leafy enclave 14 miles north of Boston at the juncture of Routes 1 and 128 and I-95, offering a fascinating insight into the earliest days of the colony, the town’s pivotal role in the American Revolution, and later as a safe haven in the Underground Railroad.

Nestled under ancient pines, oaks, and maples, landmark homes have been beautifully preserved. Some are on the National Register of Historic Places, many are named for the original families that built or lived in them, and almost all have elegant wall plates announcing their illustrious heritage.

Henfield House at 300 Main Street was built in 1667 and is the oldest in Lynnfield. Chestnut Street, which runs off Main, is lined with Colonial homes, such as Hart House (1695), Joseph Tapley’s House (1700), and James Reid House (ca. 1700).

The jewel in the crown, however, is a house of a different kind. The Old Meeting House, built in 1714, is thought to be the third-oldest Puritanical meeting house in New England and has pride of place on the historic Common in the center of town. Plans are already being drawn up for the 300th anniversary of the Meeting House in 2014, a double milestone for Lynnfield, which will also celebrate the 200th anniversary of its incorporation in 1814.

History is but a single thread in Lynnfield’s rich fabric. The town and surrounding area are swathed in natural beauty with several waterways including Suntaug Lake, Pillings Pond, and the nearby Walden Pond (a less-famous cousin of the one in Concord).

At 400 acres, Reedy Meadow covers almost a third of the town’s land and is one of the largest migratory bird sanctuaries in New England. Partridge Island Boardwalk, a recent initiative of Lynnfield Rotary, guides locals and visitors across Reedy Meadow’s delicate eco-system, while Bow Ridge Reservation to the south of Lynnfield has scenic walking trails for a weekend hike.

Lynnfield has three excellent golf courses, including the privately owned Sagamore Spring Golf Club, and many peaceful, beautiful settings for a walk or picnic. “Lynnfield has a lot to offer,” says Jay Kimball, president of Lynnfield Rotary and a fourth-generation lawyer who’s lived in the town all his life. “It still has the look and feel of a traditional New England country town. There’s a lot of great people and a real sense of community and civic pride.”

Lynnfield may be considered a “bedroom” community, but there’s nothing sleepy about this prosperous, progressive suburb. With five top schools, the education system consistently has some of the state’s best standardized test scores.

Increasing numbers of corporate executives, sports stars, and local celebrities are bringing new wealth to the town. Median house prices are around $546,000 and rising, with substantial homes lining many of the leafy streets and avenues, and Lynnfield’s proximity to Routes 1 and 128 and I-95 means fast and easy drive times in all directions.

A new “lifestyle center” called Market Street is planned for 2012 with upscale shops, restaurants, offices, and apartments. While some residents have worried it will take the “field” out of Lynnfield, the development has received widespread support. “It will change the nature of the town but will also revitalize it,” says Kimball. “We have to keep moving with the times.”

 

House Call Lynnfield’s Old Meeting House celebrates 300 years as a witness and a window to New England’s history. It seems fitting that Linda Gillon, a guide at the Old Meeting House, lives in Henfield House, the oldest home in Lynnfield. As vice president of the Lynnfield Historical Society, she knows better than most the importance of this unique icon.
Built in 1714 at the apex of the triangular Common, this simple but charming white-washed wood building is thought to be the third-oldest Puritan Meeting House in New England still standing on its original “green.”

Once a center for religious and political gatherings, the Meeting House has also acted as a town hall, primary school, and even a firehouse before being preserved by local historians for future generations.

While the downstairs is an open space, a popular venue for wedding receptions, the upstairs is both a witness and a window to history with original beams, old church pews, and a pulpit, creating a beautiful chapel-like atmosphere.

The Old Meeting House and Common are also the setting for Lynnfield’s annual Country Store (first Saturday in December) with stalls, Christmas decorations, carolers, and annual tree lighting ceremony. For a tour of the Meeting House, call Peggy Weickert, 781-334-4724.

Out to See Mustn’t-miss stops that make for the perfect stay in Lynnfield. 

Partridge Island Boardwalk This lovely boardwalk, a recent initiative of Lynnfield Rotary, links the town with historic Partridge Island in Reedy Meadow and takes you up close and personal with this fragile eco-system brimming with birdlife. It’s a great spot for a picnic. Access is off Main Street, opposite Heritage Lane.

Karen's Bakery

Bow Ridge Reservation Another of Lynnfield’s numerous conservation areas (south of the town), Bow Ridge Reservation has a network of scenic walking trails that’s ideal for a leisurely weekend ramble. Best access is off Ledge Road, Lynnbrook Road, or from the parking lot beside Bostonville Grille on Route 1.

Venezia Day Spa After all this exercise, it’s time to soothe those tired muscles with a relaxing massage at Venezia Day Spa, owned by Gayle Venezia of Danvers. Facials, manicures, pedicures, and an array of other treatments are also on the menu. 12 Salem Street, Kernwood Plaza, 781-224-3334, veneziadayspa.com.

Baubles Fine Jewelry Baubles, a boutique jewelry store owned by Tony and Donna Sharrio, specializes in fashion-forward, classic, and estate jewelry. The pieces are an eclectic mix of unique fine and faux pieces made in America. One Post Office Square, 781-592-6110, baublesfinejewelry.com.

Perley Burrill Filling Station The exact age of Perley Burrill Filling Station, just off Route 1 in Salem Street, is largely unknown, but it’s reputed to be the oldest gas station still operating in America. The building has seen better days, but it’s definitely worth a pit stop. 906 Salem Street.

Karen’s Bakery Don’t leave Lynnfield without dropping by Karen’s Bakery, established in 1958 and run by local character Dottie Wold, for a serving (or three) of her lip-smacking Cinnamon Monkey Bread. It’s a Lynnfield institution. 6 Center Court (behind 590 Main Street), 781-334-4579, karensbakery.webs.com.

Lynnfield Meat and Deli Another local character with a heart of gold is Ronnie Cerra, who owns Lynnfield Meat and Deli. He’s the go-to man for the best and freshest meats, cold cuts, fruit, veggies, and mouthwatering homemade calzones, pizzas, sausages, and marinades. 445 Broadway Rt. 1N, 781-593-6860, lynnfieldmeatanddeli.com.

Sagamore Spring Golf Club There’s a trio of courses in Lynnfield, but the best fairways are at the privately owned Sagamore Spring straddling both sides of upper Main Street. The 18-hole course has many challenging wetland features, so choose your clubs and approach shots carefully. 1287 Main Street, 781-334 3151, sagamoregolf.com.

Christine’s Cafe & Confections Pastry chef Christine Picariello has taken 30 years’ experience with top caterers and restaurants and put it into her own business, offering delicious muffins, cookies, brownies, cupcakes, croissants, scones, and quiches. Her lemon-blueberry scones are scrumptious. 618 Salem Street, 781-596-2259.

The Details. Date of Settlement: 1638. Date of Incorporation: 1814. Zip code: 01940. Population: 11,800. Total Area: 10.5 square miles. Median household income: $86,133. Schools: Huckleberry Hill School, Summer Street School, Lynnfield Middle School, Lynnfield High School, Our Lady of Assumption. Notable residents: Garnet “Ace” Bailey, former Bruins player and coach who died on 9/11; John Michael Williams, singer, songwriter, director, author; Sib Hashian, drummer formerly of the band Boston; Nancy Kerrigan, former Olympic skater; Billy Costa, Kiss 108 FM radio personality; Carl Yastrzemski, former Boston Red Sox outfielder; Tim Thomas, Boston Bruins goalie; Ken Harrelson, TV sports broadcaster.

Good Harbor

Gloucester has evolved from strictly a fishing hub to a center of culture. 

“I don’t know if there’s another place that has all that Gloucester has,” says Joe Ciaramitaro, creator of the acclaimed blog Good Morning Gloucester and co-owner of Captain Joe and Sons Wholesale Lobster Company.

Dating back to the early 1600s, when Gloucester became the first settlement of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, this town by the sea quickly became the center of the fishing industry. Home of America’s original seaport and the oldest working art colony in North America, Gloucester was previously a one-dimensional fishing town. The waterfront town has since diversified into a tourist and travel destination rich with art, culture, music, food, and a strong sense of community.

The fishing and tourism industries have become a symbiotic duo here, drawing people from all over the world to experience Gloucester’s cultural riches and acclaimed restaurants. It all started about 14 years ago with what is known to locals as the “Restaurant Renaissance,” which welcomed a plethora of esteemed eateries. Soon following the restaurants was the barrage of coffee shop and museum openings to caffeinate and stimulate the masses, along with these other opportunities that make Gloucester unique.

For breakfast, pop into Pleasant Street Tea Company in the morning for a selection of fresh-baked goods on top of their uber-tasty organic coffees, over 100 varieties of tea, and freshly pressed juices and smoothies. For a fruitful historical experience, the Gloucester Maritime Heritage Center takes you back into the prevalent fishing times with hands-on activities and aquarium touch tanks.  At downtown Gloucester’s famous waterfront, you can embark on a once-in-a-lifetime whale watching experience aboard the 7 Seas Whale Watch, or hop onboard the schooner Thomas E. Lannon for a sail while listening to tales of fisherman Thomas Lannon’s adventures at sea—one of which includes the infamous Gloucester Sea Serpent.

The abundant offerings don’t stop there. Located on Rogers Street overlooking the boat-filled harbor, the Minglewood Tavern has a variety of mouth-watering pizzas and calzones, oven-roasted favorites, and an eclectic music scene. In warmer months, stick your toes in the sand at one of Gloucester’s 10 beautiful beaches. If you feel like taking in the scene with a leisurely stroll, park your car for free on the grass outside of the Gloucester House Restaurant, or sit on one of the waterside benches on Western Avenue and watch the boats go by under a beautiful harbor sunset.

Gloucester block parties give yet another reason for locals to stay and travelers to visit. Founded in 2008, the popular affairs take place on the third Saturday of every month during the summer. Known as one of Gloucester’s best attractions, some of the town’s favorite restaurants set up shop outside so that people can enjoy their delicious dishes alfresco. Activities range from classical circus shows to performances by a variety of musicians that grace the Hancock and Porter stages.

Another crowd pleaser is the Cape Ann Farmers’ Market, which hits the streets of Gloucester every Thursday from June through October. For the last six years, the farmers’ market has provided Cape Ann with local goods while supporting small-scale production and sustainability.  The Cape Ann Farmers’ Market has also organized the Backyard Growers program (BYG), which helps low- to moderate-income families and residents create and maintain sustainable backyard gardens. The BYG provides all of the necessary goods (installation included), like compost, seeds, and raised beds. Not only does the program provide low-income residents with the opportunity to grow their own fresh produce, but it also helps to build and grow the community. The organization also trains and mentors growers to make sure the gardens are maintained with the utmost care.
Gloucester’s delectable restaurants, lively music, rich history, strong sense of community, breathtaking beaches, friendly residents, and ample attractions are just a few reasons that this rejuvenated fishing town has made its mark on the North Shore.

Gloucester’s Ryan & Wood Distillery keeps spirits high on the North Shore. Founded in 2006 by Bob Ryan and Dave Wood, Ryan & Wood Distillery is a highlight of Gloucester’s growing food-and-beverage scene. The inspiration for the distillery, which produces Knockabout Gin, Fully Cove Rum, and Beauport Vodka, was drawn from the traditional treasures of historic Gloucester. With Ryan’s extensive background working as a waterfront seafood processor and Wood’s knowledge of business and law (he’s a lawyer by trade), the two have come together to produce “small-batch, handcrafted spirits” in the heart of Gloucester. The spirits are meticulously distilled in very small batches in a 600-liter alembic copper pot, which has been used for hundreds of years in the distilling business to ensure superior quality of  handcrafted spirits. Coming straight from Germany, the Ryan & Wood still (an apparatus for distilling) is custom-made and of the best international quality. The Ryan & Wood team unabashedly enforces extra effort and consistent monitoring to turn out top-notch products, and your taste buds will agree. 15 Great Republic Drive, 978-281-2282

 

Gloucester’s waterfront and beyond. Latitude 43 Restaurant & Bar serves up a variety of delicious dishes in its eco-friendly building, while live music draws crowds to its backroom bar. 25 Rogers Street, 978-281-0223. Alchemy, in the heart of downtown, offers a variety of tasty tapas like crispy local calamari, housemade ravioli, and arancinis in a chic ambiance and at affordable prices. 3 Duncan Street, 978-281-3997. Virgilio’s Italian Bakery has been owned and operated by the Virgilio family since 1961. Virgilio’s breads are prepared daily and sold to dozens of local markets and restaurants. Stop in for a St. Joseph sandwich, with fresh Italian meats, imported provolone cheese, oil, and oregano. 29 Main Street, 978-283-5295. Catch 22 Bistro serves up a large selection of beer and wine. With a variety of delicious courses on its menu (think fig-and-walnut ravioli), Catch 22 has certainly made a name for itself in town. 14 Rogers Street, 978-283-0247. Alexandra’s Bread Company touts hearty breads and to-die-for scones, as well as retro oilcloth bags that are perfect for toting a fresh loaf to a picnic or a dinner party. 265 Main Street, 978-281-3064.

 

The Cape Ann Museum is rich in art, history, and cultural heritage. Also known for its inexpensive admissions, the museum offers a rotation of special exhibits throughout the year. 27 Pleasant Street, 978-283-0455. Gloucester Stage Company, co-founded in 1979 by Geoff Richon, Denny Blodgett, and Israel Horovitz, has produced more than 35 world-premiere productions. Youth acting workshops, play readings, and other special events are also on offer. 267 Main Street, 978-281-4433. The Schooner Thomas E. Lannon offers sails and charters along Gloucester Harbor, the perfect way to get a taste of what it was like to experience the open sea on a fishing schooner decades ago. 63 Rogers Street, 978-281-6634. Gloucester Maritime Heritage Center offers hands-on activities for all ages. Dip your hands into the touch tanks filled with sea urchins and star fish, sound a 100-year-old foghorn, or take in a panoramic view of Ten Pound Island. 9 Harbor Loop, 978-281-0470. 7 Seas Whale Watch, a high-speed vessel, runs daily with a variety of times to choose from and has been featured on the Discovery Channel and National Geographic. 7 Seas Wharf, 888-283-1776. Toodeloos on historic Main Street has a plethora of toys for kids, and the goods keep rolling in with daily shipments. 137 Main Street, 978-281-2011. Village Silversmith is filled with gems from around the world that are mounted in sterling silver settings. Recently begun mining in Northern Mexico means plenty more treasures to come. 138 Main Street, 978-283-8811.

Destination: Beverly

In Beverly, the arts, culture, and history collide in an inspiring ocean setting. By, Meryl D. Pearlstein

Tradition, spirit, and the arts are the backbone of seaside Beverly. Offering more of a small-city feel than its immediate neighbors, Beverly mixes the young spirit of a college town with the stability of an established residential and business community. Neighborhoods like Beverly Farms, Prides Crossing, and Montserrat offer green spaces not just for those with private estates along Route 127 but also for younger families living in single-family houses or singles occupying downtown apartments. This, together with 16-acre Lynch Park, earned Beverly the moniker “The Garden City” of the North Shore.

Inspiring controversy to this day, Beverly considers itself the birthplace of the American Navy, citing the departure of General Washington’s first armed ship, the Hannah, from its harbor in 1775 as qualification. (Neighboring Marblehead begs to differ, as the crew and outfitting of the Hannah originated there, so goes the dispute.) Another “first” inspiring continued discussion is Beverly’s claim of being the birthplace of the American industrial revolution, with the first cotton mill in the United States (1787) once located at the corner of Cabot and Dodge streets. Other sites, such as Slater Mill in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, contest vehemently, pointing to the unprofitability of the Beverly Cotton Manufactory as a disqualifier.

In Beverly, the arts filter into all aspects of life. Visual arts are showcased in Montserrat College of the Arts’ galleries, which are open to the public. Performing arts are free to the community as well, with outdoor concerts drawing spectators to Lynch Park and other locations. Pop-up poetry events are one of the city’s newest endeavors, with “The Improbable Places Poetry Tour” making appearances in venues as varied as the shallow end of a swimming pool or a bike shop.

The town has been a destination for music, dance, and theatre for more than 50 years, thanks to the North Shore Music Theatre’s celebrity concerts, musical productions, and children’s programs. Recently bought by a private organization, the North Shore Music Theatre is particularly well known for its summer stock program, with classic musicals and touring companies regularly including Beverly on their schedules. Endicott College’s new performing arts center offers the promise of even more arts for the community.  The longest-running magic show in the country, “Le Grand David and His Spectacular Magic Company,” takes place every Sunday at the Cabot Street Cinema Theatre, a 1920 classic movie palace, originally designed with both live performances and movie screenings in mind. The theatre also showcases art films along with other more popular titles. Beverly’s second classic playhouse, the Larcom, dates from 1912 and was restored from top to bottom 30 years ago. It again delights audiences with the magic troupe’s second production, “An Anthology of Stage Magic.”

On the North Shore, Beverly has a reputation as a jazz city. Replacing the long-gone but cherished jazz club Sandy’s, Chianti is now as much a jazz spot as a Tuscan trattoria. Brenden Crocker’s Wild Horse Café mixes martinis with music, and Tryst serves up a weekend jazz breakfast (reservations are strongly advised).

Beverly gives residents another reason to stay in town and for visitors to stop by: the Cummings Center. This quarter-mile expanse of buildings was the original location of the United Shoe Machinery Corporation, known as “The Shoe,” and home to a flourishing industry in the early-to-mid 1900s. Purchased in 1996 by Cummings Properties and transformed into a collection of stores, restaurants, and businesses, the architecturally and historically significant site has created new jobs as well as new options for dining and entertainment, plus a museum setting for viewing historical shoe manufacturing equipment and vintage photographs.

With its seaside setting and beaches, vibrant downtown center, public outdoor park, stately homes and estates, affordable condos, focus on in-city employment and the arts, a public golf and tennis club, and five railway stops on a commuter route running from Boston to Rockport, you can understand why so many people call Beverly a city with a small-town feel.

Dream Theatre Beverly’s crown jewel of performing arts affords entertainment and a dose of nostalgia.

One of the few remaining grand movie palaces of the 1920s is Beverly’s own Cabot Street Cinema Theatre. The 750-seat Cabot screens “films worth seeing more than once” and is home to the world’s longest-running magic show, Le Grand David and His Own Spectacular Magic Company, now in its 35th year. It was thanks to this production that the dusty Cabot was saved from the wrecking ball in the 1970s. After a complete refurbishment, it reopened for movies in 1976, and then introduced in 1977 the magic show that has attracted patrons throughout the world. Today, Cabot is still pure vaudeville with filigree accoutrements, Art Nouveau murals, red fabric seat cushions, and a giant chandelier gracing a rotunda, as well as a tuxedoed usher to greet patrons. For Le Grand David, the audience enters through a dragon’s mouth into a world of illusion. Buy some popcorn, marvel at the elaborate production, and imagine yourself back in a time without the Internet, video games, or smartphones. 286 Cabot St., 978-927-3677, legranddavid.com, cabotcinemamovies.com.

On the Town Beverly’s best in shopping, eating, and relaxing

Dane Street Beach If pebbles on the sand and occasional rocks in the water don’t bother you, you’ll love this public beach in Beverly. When the tide is out, you can walk out far to explore the tide pools as you gaze across Salem Harbor. There’s a bathhouse, a kid’s play structure, and street parking. Dane St. and Lothrop St.

Lynch Park A 16-acre jewel with beaches, kayaking, an Italian rose garden, and spaces for music performances, Lynch Park hosts Beverly’s Yankee homecoming commemoration each August. 55 Ober St., bevrec.com.

The Balch House For a dose of 17th-century history, The Balch House provides a peek into one of the oldest wood-frame houses in the U.S. Tours via the Beverly Historical Society are scheduled Tuesday through Saturday in the summer and fall. 448 Cabot St., 978-922-1186, beverlyhistory.org.

Casa de Moda A destination gift shop with myriad goodies for viewing, smelling, and trying on; here’s where you’ll find the perfect ballet outfit, candle, or piece of jewelry for that hard-to-buy-for someone. 272 Cabot St., 978-922-8100.

Yarns in the Farms For the knitter, the Beverly Farms yarn store has it all, from materials to instructional books and knitting classes. 641 Hale St., 978-927-2108, yarnsinthefarms.com.

Prides Crossing Confections Fudge and handmade chocolates are North Shore traditions, and Prides Crossing Confections offers some of the best. Don’t leave without trying the chocolate-coated caramel turtles. 590 Hale St., 978-927-2185, pridescrossingconfections.com.

Marino’s Café A 10-minute walk from the Cummings Center and steps from the train station, Marino’s Café is a convenient choice for homemade sandwiches, salads, and entrees with an Italian flair. Don’t miss open mic, trivia, and wing nights. 200 Rantoul St., 978-922-9288, marinoscafe.net.

Anchor Pub & Grille Across from Beverly Harbor, the Anchor is a Beverly tradition for meals throughout the day and some of the freshest lobsters and clams in town. The bar promises a good scene into the wee hours. 20 Cabot St., 978-921-0504.

The Beverly Depot This train station-turned-eatery offers classic fare, from seafood to roast beef to aged steaks. There’s nothing trendy here, but the food is consistent and patrons of all ages are welcome. 10 Park St., 978-927-5402, beverlydepot.com.

Henry’s For more than 65 years, Henry’s has helped locals find the freshest in baked goods, deli items, meat, and produce. Ask for help assembling a picnic for the beach. 588 Cabot St., 978-922-3885, henrysofbeverly.com.

Wylie Inn and Conference Center You’ll feel like one of the Beverly elite at this 92-room inn along coastal Route 127. The inn sits on a 10-acre campus adjacent to the 1900s-era Tupper Manor (the conference center) with a striking fountain and lawn. Beach access and ocean views complete the feeling of living on an estate. 295 Hale St., 866-333-0859, wyliecenter.com.

THE DETAILS

Date of Settlement: 1626. Date of Incorporation: 1668. Zip Code: 01915. Population: 39,502 Total area: 15.4 square miles. Median household income: $68,407. Schools: Public ele-mentary: 5; public middle: 1; public high school: 1. Notable Residents: John Updike, writer; President William Taft (summer resident); Stu Irving, 1972 U.S. Hockey silver medalist; Henry Clay Frick, industrialist/financier (summer resident); Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr., associate justice, U.S. Supreme Court (summer resident); Henry Cabot Lodge, politician/statesman (summer resident); Dave Leonard, former Baltimore Orioles pitcher; A.J. Barnett, FOX meteorologist; Paula Cole, singer.

Destination: Newport

Newport, Rhode Island is awash in opulence, from its many famous mansions to its breathtaking beaches and coast. By, Margaret Loftus

Ever since wealthy industrialists began building their summer “cottages” along its shoreline in the 19th century, Newport has been synonymous with R&R. Most of the Gilded Age mansions are museums now, but the good life is still alive and well—and only an hour-and-a-half drive from the North Shore.

Stay Built in 1873 for New York Congressman John Winthrop Chanler and his wife, Margaret Astor Ward, The Chanler at Cliff Walk hearkens back to the graciousness of the town’s golden era, with its manicured gardens and lawn overlooking the Atlantic. Each of the 20 guest rooms features a unique décor theme inspired by history—the ornate Louis XVI room is accented by hand-painted leaf and ribbon designs copied from a Normandy chateau—or the natural beauty of the coast, like the Block Island ocean villa, with its washed green and amber palette, wainscoting, and private courtyard meant to evoke a cottage-like feel. 117 Memorial Blvd., 866-793-5664, thechanler.com. While the Chanler has on-call car service, gratis, to zip you the mile into downtown, Vanderbilt Hall is half a block away from the action on Thames Street. The luxe inn originally served as a residence for Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt more than 100 years ago. Several multi-million-dollar renovations later, the mansion has been transformed into 33 guest rooms elegantly appointed with Italian linens and cashmere throws, including a newly restored 1,000-square-foot suite. Escape the bustle of town in the hotel’s spa, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, and sauna and steam rooms on a rooftop deck. 41 Mary St., 888-826-4255, vanderbilthall.com.

Eat Chef Thomas Duffy at The Chanler’s Spiced Pear has the magic touch when it comes to local seafood, filling delicate ravioli with lobster and ricotta and show- casing diver scallops with jumbo gulf shrimp atop a crispy risotto cake. Monty’s at Vanderbilt Hall serves gastro pub-inspired fare, like sautéed Berkshire pork loin with arancini, apple gelée, and Calvados sauce, in a cozy fireside setting. For al fresco dining with panoramic views of Narragansett Bay, head to the Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar, which sources much of its seafood and produce locally. Seafood is the star here. Don’t miss the scallop chowder and “bag of doughnuts”—lobster, crab, and shrimp fritters with chipotle-maple aioli. Sayer’s Wharf, 401-846-2260, mooringrestaurant.com.

See Beginning in the Chanler’s backyard, the Cliff Walk is a 3.5-mile scenic walkway that traces the coastline past some of Newport’s most famous estates. cliffwalk.com. For a closer look, tour one or more of the 11 Newport Mansions run by the Preservation Society of Newport County, from Rosecliff, modeled after the Grand Trianon in Versailles, to the Breakers, an Italian Renaissance palazzo built by the Vanderbilt Family. 401-817-1000, newportmansions.org. Save time for a peek at Rough Point, one of a handful of grand homes of tobacco heiress Doris Duke that served as repositories for her enormous collection of fine art, furnishings, and antiques that she acquired from around the world. 401-847-8344, newportrestoration.org.

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