Newbury Author Andre Dubus III

After a gritty early life influenced by fear, desertion, drugs, and violence amid the mills of Haverhill, Andre Dubus III emerged a prolific writer and steadfast family man. Upon the release of townie: a memoir the best-selling author sits down with Karen Propp at his Newbury home to retell his volatile past and how he overcame it. Photographs by Christopher Churchill

Newbury author Andre Dubus III

Newbury author Andre Dubus III

Andre Dubus III is a proud family man.Within minutes of meeting the acclaimed author at his Newbury home, he enthusiastically introduces me to his sister, Suzanne, his wife, Fontaine, and 13-year old son, Elias, the youngest of his three children. “Are you hungry? Want some lasagna?” he booms, gesturing to a casserole dish covered in tin foil. “I made it myself.”

He gives me a tour of his house—capacious rooms, vaulted ceilings—that he and his younger brother, Jeb, built. “At the time it seemed like an important thing to be doing,” says the author, best known for the novel House of Sand and Fog, which was an Oprah book club selection and made into the Hollywood film of the same name.

The ease and security that Dubus enjoys now is a far cry from the deprived childhood and violent coming-of-age he describes in his stunning new memoir, Townie. After his parents’ divorce in the early 1970s, when he was 10, Dubus and his three siblings moved often between rental houses in rough neighborhoods in Newbury and Haverhill. Although his mother worked hard as a registered nurse and then as a social worker, by the end of most months they’d run out of food. “It’s something we’d all gotten used to,” writes Dubus, “that hollowness in the veins, the nagging feeling there was always just a bit too much air behind your ribs.”

His father, Andre Dubus, was then a professor at Bradford College, writing the short stories for which he would become famous and revered. He remarried, divorced, and then married again. Other than the Sunday afternoons during which he took out the four children to a restaurant or movie, he was largely absent from the lives of his children. As Dubus puts it, “I was a kid who was not seen by men.”

In one of the book’s opening scenes, when Dubus’s father unexpectedly invites teenaged Andre along for a morning run in the woods, the boy is flattered and pleased. Not until the end of the 11-mile run, when Andre peels off his shoes to reveal toes that had “split open at the sides like sausages over a fire” does his father notice that his son’s sneakers are two sizes too small. Yet Dubus writes about that grueling run: “I couldn’t remember ever feeling so good. About life.  About me.  About what else might lie ahead if you were just willing to take some pain, some punishment.”

There are plenty of opportunities to take some pain and punishment. In his early teens, Dubus is habitually threatened, bullied, and hurt. Helpless, ashamed of his weak body, he stands passively as a neighborhood toughie smashes in his younger brother’s face and calls his mother a whore. He decides to get strong, fight back. He stops getting high at the bus stop before school and begins working out in his basement with an old weight set, then trains and learns to box at nearby Connolly’s gym.

Truly compelling is Townie’s honesty about the sources and psychological mechanisms of violence. In pitch-perfect prose, Dubus narrates the fights that break out in crowded school corridors and at the backs of school buses, and then at bars, restaurants, and function halls: fights for money owed, girlfriends stolen, drug deals gone awry, or simply because someone looks the wrong way at someone else. “Growing up, I didn’t know anyone who didn’t fight,” says Dubus.

Newbury author Andre Dubus IIIAndre gets stronger and bigger, but that does not prevent his sister from getting raped by two men in the back of a car on a snowy night in Boston.  He gets angrier, more keyed up. When a local tormentor kicks Dubus’s brother down the stairs of the Tap Restaurant, Andre’s punch jabs knock out the tormentor’s two front teeth. He nearly kicks a guy to death at the former Sambo’s restaurant in Monument Square.

As a fighter, Dubus wins his father’s attention and admiration. And he comes to need his role as protector for family and friends. After sending a few fast, well-placed jabs, Dubus writes, “I lay in the glow of the hurt I’d caused, and I felt completely virtuous, as brave and selfless as a good father.”

In his early twenties, he finds his way out of violence through writing. The act of writing gives him one of the crucial things he got from fighting; a way to shatter an invisible membrane around himself and other people in order to stand in a deeper truth. Andre sent one of his first short stories to his father, who promptly called and said, “You’re a writer, man.” He advised his son to get a night job as a bartender so he could have time to write during the day.

Today, sitting in his home before a well-tended fire and drinking tea sweetened with agave, Dubus calls Townie an “accidental memoir.” He explains how he originally tried to write a personal essay about baseball when he began coaching on his son’s baseball teams, only to realize he knew nothing about baseball. “How did I miss baseball?” Dubus says.  “I began the essay with that question.”  In search of an answer, he began writing about growing up in mill towns with no father, no uncles. It was a book he’d been trying to write for 20 years. “I wasn’t angry when I wrote it,” he says. “I didn’t have a score to settle. This is the conversation I never got to have with my father.” About his own fatherhood experiences, Dubus says, “I’ve enjoyed every second of it.  I see how my father got robbed.”

Dubus’s two older children drift into the house. Fifteen-year-old daughter Ariadne dances in the Joppa Dance Company and 18-year-old Austin is applying to colleges. “I made lasagna. Did you eat yet?” inquires the devoted father, who as a kid stole money from his mother’s purse to buy chips and a Pepsi for breakfast.

“We never planned our lives,” says Dubus about his 23-year-marriage to Fontaine Dollas Dubus, owner and director of The Dance Place in Newburyport and co-director of Exit Dance Theater. “We just made love and had kids.”

Dubus teaches at the University of Massachusetts at Lowell. “I see many students there who come from broken homes and are passionate about changing their lives,” he says. “I love them.” Spoken like a man who was meant to be a father.

Varitek Speaks at Greater Haverhill’s Holiday Luncheon

Captain Jason Varitek of the Boston Red Sox was the special guest speaker at Greater Haverhill’s Service Clubs’ annual holiday luncheon to benefit area children’s sport groups. Sponsored by Jaffarian Motor Group & Haverhill Kiwanis Club & held at DiBurro’s of Ward Hill

The service clubs of Greater Haverhill: Key Club, Exchange Club, Pentucket & Haverhill Kiwanis Clubs had their annual dinner of the holiday season on Thursday at DiBurro’s of Ward Hill, sponsored by northshore car czars Jaffarian Volvo Toyota Scion. Businesspeople and Movers and Shakers of the Merrimack Valley came out for the holiday business luncheon and were treated to a delightful speech by Boston Red Sox catcher Jason Varitek, followed by a Question and Answer session, all benefiting area children’s sports programs.

Sponsors Gary, Mark and Gavin Jaffarian are well-known north of Boston for their many years of philanthropy benefiting various children’s charities, and also have maintained a working relationship with many Boston sports players (Jason Varitek, Felix Dubront, Hideki Okajima of the Boston Red Sox). Also orchestrating the event was Peter Carbone of the Haverhill Kiwanis Club, Peter Shanahan of Haverhill High School/Haverhill Schools, and the DiBurro family (David, Joe & Patrick Sr.).

Photo from left to right: Organizer: Peter Carbone, Haverhill Kiwanis Club, Sponsor:Gary Jaffarian, President of Jaffarian Motor Group, Special guest: Jason Varitek, Captain Boston Red Sox

Zombieland

Fashioning an identity around the word for a reanimated corpse can make spontaneity tricky. Of course, when your last name is Zombie, people come to expect certain things. Luckily, Rob Zombie—the Haverhill-raised shock rocker, horror film director, comic book author, and sometime amusement park ride designer—has pretty much always lived up to his chosen moniker.

Zombie was born Robert Cummings, Jr. in early 1965. His parents had spent years working in traveling carnivals, memories of which would later inspire Zombie’s 2006 album Educated Horses, which is what circus types call trained animals. By the time the family settled in Haverhill so that Rob and his younger brother, Michael, could go to school, Dad worked as a furniture maker and Mom worked in sales.

As kids, Rob and Michael spent a lot of time the way many 1970s-era suburban kids whose parents both worked did: sprawled in front of the TV (in Rob’s case, watching early horror movies like Frankenstein and The Wolf Man), reading comic books, rocking out to Alice Cooper, and making up stories about the neighbors. A family of albinos who lived down the street provided inspiration for a character in Zombie’s 2003 film House of 1000 Corpses, which preceded his more famous, bigger-budget works: late-1990s remakes of Halloween and Halloween 2. But despite an emerging fascination with gore, Halloweens in Haverhill weren’t particularly memorable. “All I know is that it was always freezing cold,” Zombie says. “It was like, I don’t want to wear my ski jacket over my pirate costume!”

After graduating from Haverhill High School, Zombie enrolled at New York City’s Parsons School of Design for a degree in fine art illustration. Eventually, he was kicked out for poor grades and spent a few years job-hopping as a bike messenger, a graphic designer for adult magazines, and a production assistant on the TV series Pee-wee’s Playhouse. But art was always a part of the plan.

Restless in the late 1980s, Rob and friend Shauna Reynolds decided to form a metal band, which they called White Zombie after the 1932 horror film. White Zombie played its first gig in April of 1986 on the Lower East Side of New York and spent a few years putting out independent albums before signing in 1991 with Geffen Records. Zombie himself wasn’t just the band’s face and namesake, but the mastermind; he wrote most of the songs and designed the album cover art. He became known for his dark dreadlocks, sleeves of tattoos, gravelly voice, and dark theatrics to match—grizzly live performances saw thousands of “horror geek” fans singing along to songs with titles like “Living Dead Girl” and “More Human than Human.” On the side, he wrote and illustrated comic books.

Once described as having a Wall Street-quality work ethic, Zombie, however, was always looking for the next thing. He admits he gets bored easily. In the 1990s, he fell into writing and directing films after making music videos for Ozzy Osbourne, Powerman 5000 (of which his brother, Mike, is a member), and his own band, before it split in 1998. Earlier this year, Zombie directed his first—and likely last—hour of television, an episode of CSI: Miami. “TV,” he says, “is very restrictive.” Similarly, the likelihood of Zombie taking on a comic book-inspired superhero flick—even though he was raised on Marvel—is about as likely as a Zombie-helmed Jennifer Aniston rom-com. “I’m not interested in superhero movies,” he says. “Because when movies get to that budget—we’re talking $100 million, $200 million—the material is fairly safe. And that’s not really my thing.”

When he’s not touring or on location, he and his wife, actress and clothing designer Sheri Moon Zombie, split their time between Los Angeles and Connecticut. This fall is typically packed: Halloween at Universal Studios for the unveiling of Rob Zombie’s House of 1000 Corpses, a 3-D maze based on the movie; a voice cameo as God in Super, a feature-length superhero send-up co-starring Rainn Wilson, Ellen Page, Kevin Bacon, and Liv Tyler; the next installment of his latest comic book series, The Haunted World of el Superbeasto; and prepping for his next writing and directing project, which he’s not ready to announce, though he describes it as “pretty weird, pretty out there.” He’ll also be touring through the fall with Alice Cooper, his old childhood hero (October includes a performance in Worcester, as well as in Portland, Maine).

Even though he’s been at it for 25 years, performing live never gets old, Zombie says. “As time goes on, you’re smart enough to appreciate things more, and I like touring more than ever.  There are so many new ways to discover music—from video games, YouTube—that our audience has never been more diverse. Literally, we’ll have fans at our shows who are four years old and fans who are 60. It’s amazing that we get to do this for a living.”

 

Home Grown

nsjj10_ne_farmersmarketsFresh eats abound at the area’s top farmers’ markets. Continue reading Home Grown

Cedar’s Mediterranean Foods in Haverhill

Walking through the manufacturing facility at Cedar’s Mediterranean Foods is a little like visiting Willy Wonka’s hummus factory, if he had ever built one. Continue reading Cedar’s Mediterranean Foods in Haverhill

Newburyport’s Rising Tide

Written by Bryan McGonigle

Photographs by Christopher Churchill

nsdj09_newburyport_3As Ann Lagasse walks along Green Street in Newburyport, talking to residents and noting the new businesses she’s helped bring to town in the past decade, she stops here and there to admire the flower beds that New England Development supplies to its tenants. “We’re definitely a downtown, but we’re looking to attract staple stores, too,” she says. “That way, we’re not all coffee shops and banks.”

Yet much of the waterfront remains undeveloped. And across town, a petition at a local market gathered thousands of signatures aimed at saving that market from being replaced by a CVS, the latest phase of frustration for some Newburyport residents.

“The face of Newburyport has changed to an almost faceless town, with a few people in control sporting dollar signs in their eyes,” says local resident Lisa Hayford. “Newburyport’s soul was sold to a commercial devil, and now the residents are paying the price.”

An evolving makeover of the downtown area, combined with a dismal economy that has stalled long-awaited major renovation of the waterfront and a caused a visionary tug-of-war, define the ambitious and often exhausting course of progress in Newburyport.

Newburyport has a long history of financial advantage. Born in 1764 after Newbury’s port community prospered so greatly that it broke away from the rest of the town (and later annexed parts of Newbury to incorporate itself into city status in 1851), Newburyport became an epicenter of shipbuilding and trade during and following the American Revolution. The United States Revenue Cutter service—the predecessor to the US Coast Guard, which was established to fight smuggling—opened its first station in Newburyport in 1791, and lighthouses built by the Coast Guard still stand on Water Street and Plum Island. Newburyport was also a base for the privateer ships that attacked enemy ships that captured hundreds of British ships during the American Revolution and War of 1812.

nsdj09_newburyport_1Ships from all over the world registered their foreign goods at Newburyport’s Custom House. In turn, those built in Newburyport carried American goods around the world. The Currier yard built 97 vessels totaling more than 80,000 tons. Famous shipbuilder Donald McKay set up his operation in Newburyport and introduced clipper ships—famous for their grandeur, grace, and speed—in the mid-19th century. The shipbuilding district was overlooked by Federal-style mansions of the region’s famous shipbuilding families, including the Greenleaf, Cushing, and Bartlett clans.

Newburyport native and merchant Francis Cabot Lowell helped bring the Industrial Revolution to America in the early 1800s, and the innovations that gave birth to steam-powered mills served as more wind for Newburyport’s financial sails. Many of the large brick mill buildings around the city were built at this time.

In the 20th century, however, the decline of localized industry and the growth of suburbs and strip malls caused Newburyport to sink economically, leaving the city awash in stagnation. By the 1970s, Newburyport’s downtown commercial core was in disarray; many of the local shops were closed, and much of downtown was slated for demolition. The Newburyport Redevelopment Authority, established in 1960 to address revitalization of the downtown central business district, renovated some of the area, including the waterfront park it built with the Newburyport Waterfront Trust. But the more ambitious plan for a grand hotel on the waterfront was fought by community activist groups for years, because the hotel was planned for public land, and it slowly sunk into wishful thinking.

Then came the Lagasses. In the 1990s, Chuck and Ann Lagasse moved to Newburyport from Haverhill and bought several buildings, setting out for renewal and charting a new course toward preservation and restoration of downtown and the waterfront.

“We moved here, and we liked old buildings,” Ann Lagasse says. “We saw some opportunities. This town has the best collection of Federalist-style buildings in the nation, and we wanted to preserve that.”

Before long, the Lagasses were the city’s biggest commercial landowners, with about 25 percent of the downtown area in their hands. Their work inspired other renovation efforts, and property values in the city went up. Newburyport witnessed a commercial rebirth under the Lagasses, who invested in condominiums, renovated Michael’s Harborside restaurant, converted another old restaurant into the Black Cow, and renovated the Atkinson Building downtown into office space and residences, among many other projects.

The Lagasses enlisted the guidance of Walter Beinecke Jr., heir to the S&H Green Stamp fortune, who had revitalized much of Nantucket by buying waterfront buildings and renovating them with appealing 18th-century architecture. Impressed with the renovations he’d made with Nantucket, the Lagasses met with him in the early 1990s and asked for his advice in preserving and revitalizing Newburyport’s downtown and waterfront. Beinecke agreed to help and went a step further: he moved to Newburyport.

“It was great,” Lagasse says of having Beinecke as a mentor. “He was a visionary, concerned about the big picture, but also concerned with the details.”

Beinecke left Newburyport a few years later to be closer to his family in Texas and passed away in 2004. Around that time, the Lagasses met with Beinecke’s Nantucket protégé, Stephen Karp, and began discussions about investing in Newburyport. The Lagasses were millions of dollars in debt and couldn’t materialize their goals for Newburyport on their own.

“We knew we needed a strong partner to develop the waterfront property,” Lagasse says. “We had mortgages on the properties, and the sale price included that debt. We wanted to find an entity that had the expertise and experience to develop the waterfront.”

Karp is chairman and CEO of New England Development, a company he started in the early 1970s, specializing in commercial real estate that developed more retail space in its first 30 years than any other developer in the Northeast. The company’s portfolio included the CambridgeSide Galleria in Boston and the massive Pinehills residential community in Plymouth, and NED had purchased and renovated properties on Nantucket, where Karp kept his work in line with Beinecke’s vision of preservation on the island.

“Frankly, we talked to many companies at that time, including companies that were interested in particular parcels,” Lagasse says. “We liked NED’s proposal because they had an interest in the entire portfolio, and we believed we could continue to work with them.”

nsdj09_newburyport_6Karp had reportedly declined to invest in Newburyport the first time he was approached, but later changed his mind and was drawn to the city. “Walter introduced me to Newburyport, and we discussed the similarities and differences with Nantucket,” Karp says. “I had great appreciation for the character of Newburyport, the preservation of older buildings, the unique shops and restaurants, the location on the Merrimack, and the close proximity to Plum Island.”

Karp began buying several of the Lagasses’ properties in 2005, starting with 31 properties and adding on from there. He had a vision for the town, one that was estimated at more than $100 million that included long-term development of the waterfront. Ann Lagasse stayed on with NED and now helps manage its Newburyport properties.

“The Lagasses created value in their preservation of building character, land purchases, and appreciation of the location on the water,” Karp says. “Ann continues her work in finding new tenants who serve a year-round population.”

Lagasse says she and others at NED have been canvassing in other towns, talking with business owners to attract new businesses to fill up Newburyport’s downtown. Today, Newburyport is home to more than 17,000 residents and hundreds of businesses, and NED is the largest property owner in the city, with 50 retail stores in town as well as a couple of schools, some office space, marina space, and executive office suites.

The development in Newburyport has involved mixed-use buildings, properties that serve as businesses, office space, and schools, as well as residences. Neighboring Salisbury is in the midst of a revitalization effort with proposed mixed-use buildings as well, and Newburyport may serve as a loose example of what to expect there, since many renovated buildings in Newburyport have been that way for some time.

“We’re focusing on making the buildings work on every level,” NED spokesman Tony Green says of Newburyport. “It already is a mixed-use downtown; it’s already here, and we’re a part of it. The new development we do will be consistent with that.”

New England Development’s ambitions have met with some local backlash, however. Some say they are concerned about their town being turned into a Nantucket imitation—“Nantucketization” is a common term around town—and some are concerned about the influx of new, often high-end stores coming in from out of town and replacing Newburyport’s familiar character. Although the Nantucket revitalization was a loose model for NED’s plans, Lagasse and Karp insist they have always planned to maintain Newburyport’s character. Karp has met with Newburyport residents a few times since purchasing the Lagasses’ properties and has had Lagasse talking with residents and insists that feedback does not fall on deaf ears.

“We try to listen to what people have to say,” Karp says. “We can’t always agree with everyone. The community will have input into any major development that will change downtown.”

Recently, it was announced that the White Hen Pantry on Pond Street would not have its lease renewed. Instead, the nearby CVS would be expanding and taking up the entire plaza space. This has led to outrage in that neighborhood from people who have frequented that White Hen for many years.

“Maybe CVS offered more rent, but I’m not really sure,” says Robin Munroe, whose husband has owned that White Hen franchise for about 12 years. Although the Munroes own that franchise, the actual tenant is White Hen, so deals are made through the corporate office. “Nobody’s talking to us. All we know is our lease ends in April, and that’s it.”

The Newburyport White Hen has many loyal customers; Munroe said they get an average of 1,500 customers a day. Since news of the White Hen’s imminent closing became known this past spring, there has been a petition posted at the market that has gathered more than 5,000 signatures. In September, there was a protest outside the White Hen held by Liz Frame, a local business owner outraged by the decision to replace the market.

Frame, who owns the Fancy Schmancy store near downtown and sings in a local band, has been a supporter of the White Hen effort for a while, but her concern is for the whole town, and she has long been outspoken with her concern about NED. Frame says she and others in town will be watching to see how the development progresses. The White Hen situation has put many on alert and has ignited fears of the NED renovation efforts.

“I don’t begrudge Mr. Karp his vision to develop the downtown,” Frame says. “It’s ultimately going to be good for everybody. But from a more altruistic, community-minded viewpoint, there are potential landmines that need to get navigated, and this whole White Hen-CVS thing speaks to that issue.”

Neither White Hen’s nor CVS’s corporate offices responded to requests for comments for this article. Lagasse acknowledges the frustration over the decision not to renew White Hen’s lease, but said the decision was one based on the location of the plaza in which White Hen operates and the company having to make a choice between White Hen and CVS due to the limit of space there.

“Both White Hen and CVS have been great tenants which served the community well,” Lagasse says. “Unfortunately, we could not expand this property—it’s a residential neighborhood—to accommodate both their future needs to grow.”

Some properties owned by NED have seen their rents go up. NED also requires a percentage of stores’ profits, which has alarmed some business owners around town. But taking a percentage of a store’s profits isn’t a practice reserved just for shopping malls, and it comes in exchange for helping the store make those profits, Green says.

“Percentage rate is common and has been a part of many leases in Newburyport that predate us,” he says. “The location, amenities, service, marketing, and support, as well as base rent level, can make such an arrangement attractive to both parties. Some leases have it, others don’t.”

With the economy in a slump, the development of the waterfront area, the major project to be undertaken by NED, has been delayed. The company had planned to tear down Oldies Marketplace along the waterfront near the Atkinson Building and build an inn, but in 2007, that plan was scrapped when the economy turned downward. Green and Lagasse say they may decide to go ahead with that waterfront inn once the economy picks back up again, but right now they aren’t sure. The company is working with the city on a walking pathway from Cashman Park to the waterfront, but the company’s eight-acre waterfront property remains undeveloped.

nsdj09_newburyport_2“In today’s economy, we’re focused on our businesses that are already there,” Green says. The company insists it remains committed to the change Ann and Chuck Lagasse envisioned for Newburyport more than a decade ago, and despite some outcry and concern from many in town, it has a lot of support from the community.

“I think people now know New England Development is a very reputable company that is here for the long haul,” Lagasse says. As she walks along the pedestrian Inn Street area and surrounding block, noting all the renovations that have been done over the years, people wave and say hello to her, even stopping their cars for small talk.

On Pleasant Street, where three new tenants of NED opened businesses last year, a new shop recently opened. Bobbles and Lace is a clothing and jewelry store based in Boston and Marblehead that has added Newburyport as its third location. The store, recently featured on WCVB’s “Chronicle” in a special bargain-hunting segment, specializes in high-end boutique looks with reasonable prices. All jewelry is under $45, and all clothing is under $80. The expansion to Newburyport was ideal, according to Co-owner Lindsay Rose Rando, a former Los Angeles boutique owner and model who co-owns Bobbles and Lace with her aunt Valerie White Russo.

“We wanted a town with a real downtown feeling where people spend the day,” Rando says, excited because the shop had been open for just about 20 minutes and she‘d already made her first sale. “There’s such great shopping here. And every person who has come in has been such a pleasure and so welcoming.”

Regarding animosity from some local residents toward NED, Rando doesn’t understand it. “There are a lot of negative feelings, but I couldn’t tell you how much of a joy it’s been,” she says, adding that she finds her rent to be reasonable, and the people at NED have been nice and professional in working with her. “One day we wanted to change the color of our awning, and [Ann Lagasse] was down here later that day with colors to pick from. It was great. I’m not used to that.”

Getting people to come to Newburyport is one thing; getting them out of their cars may be another. Along the waterfront is a large parking lot with hundreds of parking spaces, used by people who work in and visit the town. But as Newburyport Planning Director Sean Sullivan points out, it’s just not enough.

“During peak hours, it’s challenging to find parking,” Sullivan says. “I just walked outside, and the spaces are 99 percent full.” Parking in Newburyport has long been griped about, and with more development comes an increased demand for parking. To make the matter more critical, the Newburyport Redevelopment Authority is considering turning a portion of that area into a park, a move that would eliminate about 350 parking spaces.

The town recently hired an engineering consulting firm to conduct a parking study to determine the best place for a new parking garage, based on proximity to downtown, visual and environmental impact, and parking capacity. This was the ninth such study in recent history, causing many in town to question the credibility of such studies. This parking study was made possible by grant money from the federal and state governments, totaling about $500,000. With a price tag like that, Sullivan says the town is taking this parking study very seriously. The town has been working with NED on the parking situation, and there has been discussion between the town and NED about possibly using a parcel of land owned by the company near the waterfront as a parking area if need be.

While the economy might be bad, boating business is going well, according to Newburyport Marinas Manager Butch Frangipane. Frangipane recently celebrated his 35th year working at the marinas and has watched the marina life in Newburyport expand with the development. Since the Lagasses took over the marina properties, the number of boat slips has doubled to almost 500.

“Business has been reasonable for us; we hold our own,” he says. Boaters cruising up to Maine used to skip Newburyport and stop in Boston and Gloucester, and Frangipane says it was likely because boaters were forced to use the municipal docks with very little privacy. With the increase in boat slips and upgrades on amenities such as cable and electricity—and soon wireless Internet—transient traffic has seen a resurgence in Newburyport. “We’re building that business every year, and every year it gets better.”

Despite the rough economy and echoes of local dissent, Karp’s goal and vision for Newburyport remains the same as it was when he first started buying property in town four years ago. “Downtown Newburyport will be a bustling year-round destination that serves both residents and visitors,” Karp says. “I believe the work we have done has been consistent with the character of Newburyport. It is a wonderful city with room to grow while still respecting the past, yet continuing as the commercial center for the area.”

Haverhill

On a recent drizzly afternoon in downtown Haverhill, my 12-year-old persists in sticking his head far out the car window. He cranes his neck upward, ignoring the rain drops hitting him in the face, and stares intently skyward.

“Look at the rooftops, Mom—they look like stairs tipped on their sides.”

He won’t let it go until I see for myself, so craning my own neck, I, too, look up at the rooftops of Wingate Street, in the heart of Haverhill’s Arts District. The roofline of the old, mostly brick buildings looks like something out of Mary Poppins or Harry Potter. Crenellations like castle tops. Ornate and surprisingly delicate wrought-iron filigree. Elaborately patterned masonry, which upon close examination look precisely like tiny sets of brick stairs tipped up vertically like escape hatches to the sky.

The buildings are prime examples of Queen Anne architecture, a hodge-podge style that took hold in America in the mid- to late-1800s, during the height of the Industrial Revolution. Many of them became home to the shoe factories, leather shops, and the numerous shoe industry suppliers that would make Haverhill an industrial powerhouse and international shoe capital by the early 1900s. By 1913, one out of every 10 pairs of shoes in America was produced in Haverhill, which was referred to as the “Queen Slipper City of the World.”

Today, local businesses and buildings don’t hesitate to tout their shoe heritage. The Lasting Room is a popular sports bar on Washington Street, named after the room in shoe factories where a “last,” a foot-shaped block, was used for manufacturing and repairing shoes. A few doors down, the Tap Restaurant and Brew Pub dispenses microbrews with wooden handles that are actual lasts. The Washington Street Shoe District invites strollers with hanging plants, ivy-covered brick facades, and painted murals in between the alleys of the old buildings. Menus posted in the windows of chic bistros and flyers announcing this week’s live music schedule among the street’s numerous clubs further convey an artsy vibe. One recent visitor, in a fit of surprised exuberance, was overheard likening a walk down Washington Street to “strolling the streets of Paris.”

One might say that the aging Slipper Queen is in the midst of a gigantic facelift. Mayor Jim Fiorentini proudly points to the $100 million in new investments over the past four years. Shuttered factories are now chic lofts and condominiums near a vibrant restaurant and music scene, as well as two commuter rail stations.

The city has also received over $350,000 in federal and state funding for improvements, as well as new trees and plants in the restaurant and arts districts. Police foot patrols were added to enhance security, and a new boardwalk on the Merrimack River is being built.

“We’re struggling to regain our footing, but we’re finding it in the arts, our restaurants, and our wonderful architecture,” notes Margot Lindau, who relocated her store, Margot’s Gallery, into a space on Wingate Street after falling in love with the building and the neighborhood. “The buildings are gorgeous. Now they are finding new uses and new lives.”

Sole town

haverhillshoeStuart Weitzman is known among discerning shoe connoisseurs for his attention to detail and trademark use of unique materials. “Name another shoemaker who has worked with cork, vinyl, Lucite, wallpaper, and 24-karat gold!” gushes the copy on his website. He may want to add fiberglass to that list, as per one of Weitzman’s most recent creations. Called “A Weitzman Family Affair: Three Generations,” the fiberglass shoe was designed by Weitzman, his wife Jane, and his daughter Rachel, and is encrusted with Swarovski crystals. The shoe is not for everyone and not just because of its $5,000 price tag. Five-feet long and six-feet tall, the shoe is literally a work of art.

Along with 13 other creatively painted giant replicas of vintage ladies’ shoes, the Weitzman shoe is part of the city of Haverhill’s Shoe-labration, a community-wide arts celebration of the town’s illustrious shoe history. Conceived by a volunteer civic group called Team Haverhill, the oversized shoes were commissioned by local artists and have been installed in strategic locations throughout town. They will be auctioned off at a gala celebration on October 24, with the proceeds benefiting the Haverhill Chamber of Commerce Community Arts and Education Fund, as well as select local charities of their sponsors’ choosing.

Local artist Elizabeth Persing painted the Weitzman shoe, as well as a Loch Ness-type creature called the Merry MAC with the help of students from the Silver Hill Horace Mann Charter School. “The kids were really excited about it. Not just the ones painting, but all of the children. They waited in long lines and just went crazy.” Since working on the giant shoes, Persing has also volunteered to mentor children painting many of the decorative murals scattered throughout downtown. “Up until the Shoe-labration, I lived in Haverhill, but I didn’t do anything in it,” she says.

Haverhill’s Got It All, Minus The Commute

Bistro 45

Soft lighting. A charming beamed ceiling and the tiniest of open kitchens. Steak frites, brie, and Moet & Chandon on the menu. Are we in Paris yet? Mais non! This neighborhood eatery in the heart of the Arts District pleases more than just Francophiles; it’s a tapas and martini bar as well. 45 Wingate St., 978-469-9700, bistro-45.com.

The Tap Restaurant and Brew Pub

With its worn wooden floors and infinitely long wall-length bar, you’ll feel at home in this neighborhood favorite, which has been quenching locals’ thirsts for more than 100 years. They pile the nachos high and brew their own beer in-house. (Their Homerun American Pale Ale may become your new favorite.) Want more? Check out their regular live music and the ample back deck overlooking the Merrimack River. 100 Washington St., 978-374-1117, tapbrewpub.com.

George’s Restaurant

George’s Restaurant recently tripled in size, expanding from 40 to 140 seats. The dental molding on the ceiling and the brass in the mezzanine are as original as are the grilled lamb lollipops over warm onion compote and blueberry port wine drizzle. 77 Washington St., 978-374-5150, georgesonwashington.com.

Margot’s Gallery

When you buy one of Margot Lindau’s indigenous pieces of art or jewelry, she will supply you with one of her well-written, detailed information sheets. Buy a pair of Baltic amber earrings, for example, and you will learn that the Romans called the yellow fossil resin “Gold of the North” and that it is thought to instill confidence in the wearer. 52 Wingate St., 978-373-0200, margotsgallery.com.

Second Thoughts

Shop for artsy home furniture and accessories and feel good about yourself and the planet, for everything in this funky shop is recycled, reused, or repurposed. Shutters convert to an attractive plant stand, and a salvaged bed footboard becomes an unusual one-of-a-kind bench seat. 63 Wingate St., 978-374-2222, secondthoughtsonwingate.com.

Winnekenni Castle

Once a private summer residence, this  massive stone castle with four-foot-thick walls, nine bedrooms, a Grecian drawing room, and a Pompeian-style dining room serves as a recreational park and hosts regular events. 347 Kenoza Ave., 978-521-1686, winnekenni.com.

Image courtesy of chitchatlounge.com.

Image courtesy of chitchatlounge.com.

Paul Prue’s Picks for a Haverhill Live Music Club Crawl
Haverhill native, blues musician, and stained glass artist Paul Prue swears that the live music scene on Washington Street rivals that of New Orleans’ Bourbon Street, any day, but particularly on a Friday night. These spots feature national and local acts and all are within walking distance of each other, as well as commuter rail. The Chit-Chat Lounge has five different ballgames on the flatscreens, a Harley coming out of the wall, George Forman’s and Mohammed Ali’s signed boxing robe, DJs and live music, including, once upon a time, Jethro Tull and Joe Cocker. 103 Washington St., 978-374-9710, chitchatlounge.com. George’s Restaurant is a must-see on the third floor in Mal’s Lounge (see Where to Eat above). The Lasting Room is a pub and deli with great local live talent. 122 Washington Street, 978-373-9088, thelastingroom.com. For a good laugh, check out Pedro Diego’s with authentic Mexican food and live comedy on the side, 35 Washington St., 978-372-5247, pedrodiegos.com. No pub crawl in Haverhill would be complete without at stop at The Tap (see Where to Eat above) or at Peddler’s Daughter, one block over. This is a classic Irish pub in the best sense of the term. Pints and charm abound. 45 Wingate Street, 978-372-9555, thepeddlersdaughter.com.

For a Sweet Night Cap:
England’s Microcreamery is the perfect spot to end your evening, especially if you’re heading back to the train. Hand-churned on the premises. Cost: 59 cents per ounce. Infinite mix-ins. You can’t go wrong.
109 Washington St., 978-373-6400, microcreamery.com.

Haverhill Facts

Date of settlement: 1640

Date of incorporation: 1641

Zip code: 01830

Population: 59,902

Total Area: 35.6 square miles

Median Household Income:$49,833

Schools: 9 elementary schools, 4 middle schools, 2 high schools, Northern Essex Community College, Zion Bible College

Notable Residents: Alexander Graham Bell, Tom

Bergeron, Andre Dubus III, Carlos Pena, Rob Zombie

Real Estate

Median: Price: $350,000; 267 South Main St.; 5 bedrooms; 3.5 baths; 2,890 square feet; .24 acres. Listing Agent: Elaine Sawyer and Jim Fitzgerald, Re/Max.

High End: Price: $2,175,000; 43 East Broadway; 5 bedrooms, 7 baths, 8,579 square feet; 4.85 acres. Listing Agent: Connie Doto, Century 21 McLennan & Company. —Alessandra Bianchi; photographs by Robert Boyd

River Monster Spotted at Haverhill Public School

HAVERHILL – JUNE 2009 – Fifth graders in the The Discovery Club, an after-school program at Silver Hill Horace Mann Charter School, joined local artist Elizabeth Persing, to create Merry Mac – Haverhill’s friendly river monster.

rivermonsterhaverhill

River Monster at Haverhill Public Schools - part of the 2009 Summer Shoe-la-bration

Merry Mac will be part of the Soles of Haverhill Shoe-la-bration, which will exhibit a number of decorated 6 foot shoes at different locations downtown this summer.

Liz Persing created the design for Merry Mac specifically for Discovery Club. For eight weeks, Ms. Persing will mentor the student artists and teach them techniques to turn her design into an enormous, colorful, whimsical work of art. Students have the rare opportunity to assist a professional artist in the process of creation and can explore their interest in pursuing a career in the arts.

After the summer long public art display Merry Mac, along with the other shoes, will be up for auction in October to earn money for local not-for-profits who contribute to Haverhill. Merry Mac, specifically, will help the Discovery Club and the Haverhill Foundation for Excellence in Education Foundation.

For more information on the Discovery Club and the difference it is making in Haverhill’s schools, please contact Program Director Tina Fuller at: (978) 469-8772.

For more information about the Soles of Haverhill Shoe-la-bration, please contact Leota Sarrette at: lsarrette@aol.com or visit: solesofhaverhill.com

JoJo White Celebrity Golf Classic

Title: JoJo White Celebrity Golf Classic
Location: Renaissance Country Club – Haverhill
Description: An event of champions, the JoJo White Celebrity Golf Classic invites local golfers to play with celebrities, Ray Bourque, Jim Rice, Luis Tiante, Rico Petrocelli, Curt Shilling and more.
Start Time: 7:00
Date: 2009-09-27

Award-Winning Sculptor Funds New England’s Largest Solo Sculpture Exhibition!

May 2009 – HAVERHILL, MA – Award-winning metal sculptor Dale Rogers is launching a traveling exhibit of 20 of his unique 8-foot-high by 10-foot-long dog sculptures. The free exhibition, entitled The Big Dog Show, will be on display throughout New England for a six week period during August and September 2009.

“Art enthusiasts, dog lovers, families, residents and visitors will encounter a unique gathering of compelling ‘American Dog’ sculptures (see below) that are larger-than-life, accessible, and attractive to people of all ages. Bringing art to the masses is valuable to everyone—not only people who support the arts but those who enjoy it,” said Rogers.

Dale Rogers Dog Sculptures

Dale Rogers Dog Sculptures

This solo exhibition represents more than two years of planning and creation.  Rogers is solely funding the traveling exhibition with an investment of more than $200,000.

“Dale sees this tour as an excellent opportunity to attract national attention to his work as a socially responsible artist with the intention of partnering with a corporate sponsor that shares these values and who can help him take this exhibit to Boston and cities across the nation,” said Kelly Martin, spokesperson for Rogers. “Dale hopes this event is appreciated by all and will consider it a success if people get involved,” added Martin.

For more information, including details about how to get involved, please visit: www.dalerogersstudio.com

About Dale Rogers: Dale Rogers, an award-winning metal artist respected within the arts community, creates sculptures out of cor-ten and stainless steel. Dozens of his pieces are seen in public spaces across the U.S.

2009 Tour Scheudle:

Bradford Common, Haverhill, MA – August 6th-11th, 2009

Peirce Island, Portsmouth, NH – August 13th-18th, 2009

Bartlet Mall, Newburyport, MA – August 27th-September 1st, 2009

Beverly Common, Beverly, MA – September 3rd-8th, 2009

Kerouac Park,  Lowell, MA – September 10th-15th, 2009

Pentucket Bank Steps-in and Joins The Soles of Haverhill Shoe-la-bration

Haverhill – May 2009The Soles of Haverhill Shoe-la-bration is happy to announce that Pentucket Bank will be sponsoring one of the shoes on display. Pentucket Bank has proudly selected Haverhill’s beloved Winnekenni Castle and Park Conservation Area as the non-profit which will benefit from the sale of the shoe. Pentucket Bank is known for its longstanding commitment to Haverhull and to local non-profit organizations. So when Pentucket Bank CEO, Kendall Smith and the Bank’s President, Scott Cote, learned about the Soles of Haverhill Show-la-bration, they were among the first to step-up and join the exciting initiative. 

Scott Cote stated that Pentucket Bank is proud to support Team Haverhill’s Soles of Haverhill Shoe-la-bration event and is pleased to choose the Winnikenni Foundation as their non-proft partner. This initiative is another great way to generate interest and excitement about the City of Haverhill and its rich history. Pentucket Bank believes strongly in promoting the history of Haverhill and the Winnikenni Catle and Park are great symbols that represent Haverhill’s history. The Winnikenni Castle demonstrates how well historic landmarks can be preserved and utilized to support the cultural and recreational needs of a divers community over many generations.

The Bank has been working with local artist Liz Persing who has developed a very creative design for our shoe. Liz’s design captures both the history of the Winnikenni Castle and incorporates it with the importance of  the area known as Pentucket by the Passaconoway Indians or “The Land of the Winding River”. 

For those who haven’t heard about this great public art display, the “Soles of Haverhill” launches in 2009 and is anticipated to become a regular event in the city’s cultural life.

The giant shows will be on display in prominent locations from July until October, when then  will be auctioned off at a gala event at the Buttonwoods Museum. THe profits from the auction will go to the non-profit represented.

For more information on how to get involved, please contact committee co-chair, Leota Sarrette at: lsarette@aol.com 

For those interested in sponsorship opportunities, the last day to apply is May 19th, 2009.

The Shoes Have Arrived!

Haverhill, MA, March 17, 2009 – Ten shoes, each over 5 feet tall, which are at the heart of the upcoming Soles of Haverhill Shoe-la-bration have arrived and are ready for painting!

5ft shoes arrive in Haverhill, ready for painting!

5ft shoes arrive in Haverhill, ready for painting!


The Soles of Haverhill Shoe-la-bration initiative is sponsored by the Soles of Haverhill Committee, a sub-committee of the Greater Haverhill Chamber of Commerce. It is a fund-raising event for non-profits which contribute to the arts and/or culture of Haverhill while recognizing the city’s historic contributions to shoe manufacturing and the impact the industry both has had on Haverhill, even to today.

Once the shoes are painted they will be on display in prominent locations from July until October. At that time they will be auctioned off at a gala event at the Buttonwoods Museum in Haverhill.

The Soles of Haverhill committee is looking for additional sponsors for individual shoes. There will be a meet and greet for current and interested sponsors in the Community Room at Pentucket Bank, 35 Merrimack Street in downtown Haverhill, on March 23rd from 6:30pm – 8pm. This will be a great opportunity to get additional information, see artists renderings and get a sneak peak of the shoes in person.

For more information about sponsorship opportunities, please contact committee co-chair, Lynn Murphy at: solesofhaverhill@yahoo.com or (978) 521-3790, or visit our website at: solesofhaverhill.com

Soles of Haverhill

Haverhill, MA, March 8, 2009 – This summer and fall, residents and visitors can expect to see a new public art festival in the City of Haverhill. The “Soles of Haverhill” will launch in 2009 and is anticipated to become a regular event in the city’s cultural life.

Fiberglass shoe forms, embellished by selected artists with unique surface designs, will be strategically placed around the city. The shoes will be sponsored by individual businesses or organizations, and each will represent a non-profit agency which contributes to the Haverhill community. The Soles of Haverhill Committee, which is organizing this event, is actively seeking sponsors, non-profits, artists and volunteers for this initiative.

The shoes, over five feet tall, will be on display in prominent locations from July until October, when they will be auctioned off at a gala event at the Buttonwoods Museum.

Alongside the public art component, a community history project called “Shoes and the Soul of Haverhill” will examine the long-term impact of the shoe industry on the city’s character and spirit. The entire initiative is sponsored by the Soles of Haverhill Committee, a sub-committee of the Greater Haverhill Chamber of Commerce.

The Soles of Haverhill “Shoe-la-bration” presents a genuine opportunity for residents to become involved with a first-time community art celebration event, and the Committee is actively seeking participants at this time. Sponsors, artists, non-profit organizations and volunteers will all be involved in an unforgettable experience: being part of a high-profile public art display that captures the imagination of thousands of people, encourages a community sense of well-being, and supports local non-profit organizations, local artists and civic involvement.

For more information about sponorship opportunties, please contact the committee co-chair, Lynn Murphy at: (978) 521-3790, email: solesofhaverhill@yahoo.com or visit: solesofhaverhill.com

An Evening Around the World

Title: An Evening Around the World
Location: DiBurro’s Function Hall – Haverhill
Link out: Click here
Description: Spend and Evening Around the World Saturday, April 11th, 2009 at DiBurro’s in Haverhill.

The 23rd annual event & auction will benefit the children of The Boys & Girls Club of Lawrence. Over 400 people are expected to attend and help to raise funds to benefit some of the poorest, at-risk children in the Commonwealth.

Guest can enjoy an open bar 5:30pm-6:30pm, and the silent auction will run 5:30pm-7:30pm. The dinner will be held at 7:30pm with the live auction beginning at 8pm.

Tickets are $125 per person.

For more information, donation of an auction item, purchasing ticker, or any additional questions, please contact Kathy Boshar at: kboshar@lawrencebgc.com, call: (978) 683-2747, or visit: www.lawrencebgc.com

Start Time: 17:30
Date: 2009-04-11
End Time: 23:00

16th Annual Christmas Stroll

Title: 16th Annual Christmas Stroll
Location: Downtown Haverhill
Link out: Click here
Description: For new friends and old friends alike, visit friendly downtown Haverhill for their 16th Annual Christmas Stroll.

Enjoy entertainment on the main stage, strolling musicians, a special Christmas Castle, and Polar Express activity area just for the children.

Santa will light the tree with Mayor Fiorentini and distinguished guests.

Shops and restaurants will be ready to welcome you — join in the “Sticker Stroll” for great prizes and gifts and find unique and eclectic shopping and cuisine from around the world, right in downtown Haverhill.

For more information, please visit: www.celebratehaverhill.com

Start Time: 14:00
Date: 2008-12-07
End Time: 18:00

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