Burlington Mall

More than just a shopping destination, Burlington is bustling. By Debbie Strong

While you might find yourself en route to Burlington for a day of shopping—after all, in addition to myriad other retailers both large and small, it’s home to the booming, upmarket Burlington Mall—the town actually boasts so much more. Here, you’ll also uncover a top-tier dining scene (see sidebar) that seems more on par with a major cosmopolitan city than a suburban town, as well as a tight-knit residential community with great pride. In short, Burlington is an idyllic place to live and a pleasurable, accessible place to visit; a North Shore town that, says town administrator John Petrin, is “the economic capital of Route 128.”

Just 12 miles from Boston and nestled amidst Bedford, Billerica, Wilmington, Woburn, and Lexington, Burlington’s history reaches back to 1640 when, as a northwest corner of the town of Woburn, it was known as Charlestown Village. Because the town wasn’t officially incorporated until 1799, much of Burlington’s early history has also been written into the history of Woburn. Although it remains unclear where the name Burlington comes from, according to Burlington Historical Society president Mary Nohelty, one popular theory holds that it’s after the English town of Bridlington, Yorkshire, located on the east coast of England, which later became known as Burlington as well.

From Colonial times until the late 19th century, farming remained the major business in Burlington; at one time, there were several large dairy farms, a number of piggeries and shoe factories, and a well-known ham-curing plant. In fact, the town’s only surviving 19th-century connected-farm complex, Marion Tavern at Grand View Farm, is one of Burlington’s principal architectural landmarks. (After extensive renovations, the farm will reopen and be available for use as an event facility.)

The Francis Wyman House

The Francis Wyman House, another celebrated Burlington landmark, is generally held to be one of the three oldest surviving houses in Massachusetts. Built in 1666 to serve as a garrison house to which farmers in the vicinity could flee in case of Indian attacks, the house was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1975 and is available for tours.

While the sense of pride in history is evident here, pride in modern-day Burlington is just as great. In this town of 25,000 residents, the daytime population swells to nearly 150,000 (in addition to the Burlington Mall, the town is home to the well-regarded Lahey Clinic and hundreds of commercial offices), so hometown pride is not only passionate, but pervasive. “Burlington is a community first,” says Petrin. “Many people here are longtime residents, and they care deeply about their community.”

Whether it’s for the holiday tree-lighting, kids’ movie nights, or the summer concert series, residents come by the hundreds to Burlington’s Town Common for community events and gatherings outside of Town Hall. Burlington Player’s Park Playhouse puts on impressive theatrical productions, as does Burlington High School.

Sonia Rollins, former town selectman and current real estate agent and chairman of the board for the Burlington Area Chamber of Commerce, says, “People would be surprised by how the community not only has a vibrant commercial and retail district, but many great neighborhoods that are set apart from the commercial sector.” They’re  just one of the many surprises Burlington has to offer.

The Details

Dates of Settlement: 1640. Date of Incorporation: 1799. Area: 11.88 square miles. Population: 25,052 residential; approx. 150,000 daytime population (2012). Zip Code: 01803. Median Household Income: $104,522 (in 2010). Schools: Burlington Early Childhood Center, Fox Hill Elementary School, Francis Wyman Elementary School, Memorial Elementary School, Pine Glen Elementary School, Marshall Simonds Middle School, Burlington High School, Mount Hope Christian School. Notable residents: Amy Poehler, comedian and actress; Steven Wright, comedian and actor; James Walker, president of Harvard University from 1853 to 1860; James MacGregor Burns, historian and Pulitzer Prize-winning author; Roderick MacKinnon, winner of the 2003 Nobel Prize for chemistry; Pete Smith, former Major League Baseball pitcher; and multiple U.S. Olympians (for which a street, Olympian Way, is named), including: Kitty and Peter Caruthers, 1984 pairs figure skating; Mark Fusco and Scott Fusco, 1984 men’s ice hockey team; and Gary Piantedosi, 1976 men’s rowing.

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On The Town: Burlington

Schoolhouse Ice Cream & Yogurt

Café Escadrille Opened in 1973, this popular restaurant and wedding venue is reminiscent of a grand country estate. Devour the famous Chateaubriand for two in the gourmet dining room, then retire to the mahogany bar for a nightcap. 26 Cambridge Street, 781-273-1916.

Schoolhouse Ice Cream & Yogurt Pop in any time of year and pick from 30-plus flavors of homemade ice cream, fro-yo, slushes, and sherbets at this beloved ice cream parlor owned by husband and wife Robert and Betty Stanley. If the Red Sox, Bruins, Pats, or Celtics are playing, the game will be on; for birthday parties, kids can make their own sundaes or cotton candy. 216 Cambridge Street, 781-221-0338.

Summer Winter The 2010 James Beard Award Winners for “Best Chefs in the Northeast,” Clark Frasier and Mark Graier are the talent behind this “garden-to-table” eatery, which features modern American cuisine infused with ingredients fresh from the on-site greenhouse. Inside the Burlington Marriott at 1 Mall Road, 781-221-6643.

L’Andana Celebrating a special occasion? Book a table at L’Andana Grill, where you’ll feast on the flavors of Tuscany—think tortellini with pumpkin farcito, pappardelle with marsala-glazed veal meatballs, and wood-grilled rib-eye with parmesan and truffle oil. 86 Cambridge Street, 781-270-0100.

Tavern in the Square Burlington’s nightlife got a boost with the opening of this bustling sports bar, which offers a rotating menu of draft beers, creative cocktails, and yummy pub fare. Head here on weekends to catch the game and indulge in the award-winning brunch buffet. 1 New England Executive Park, 781-272-9000.

LaCascia’s Bakery and Deli Ask any local where to get the best steak tips in town, and you’ll end up at LaCascia’s, a deli and baked good emporium that’s been loved by locals for more than 30 years. Munch on a tasty arancini (rice ball) while shopping for freshly sliced coldcuts, warm Scali bread, and delectable Italian pastries to take home to your family. 326 Cambridge Street, 781-272-5203.

Cycle Loft Since 1976, cycling enthusiasts from all over the area have headed to this pro shop, where they can stock up on apparel, accessories, and advice. Experienced staff can guide your purchase of a state-of-the-art racing bike, repair your 60-year-old English three-speed, and everything in between. 28 Cambridge Street, 781-272-0870.

Pyara Salon and Spa This tranquil day spa and Aveda salon feels like a sleek oasis you’d find in a major metropolis. Choose from a vast menu of revitalizing skin, hair, and body therapies, such as the Stress Fix, a deep-tissue massage that combines the serene scents of organic French lavender, lavandin, and clary sage. 101 Middlesex Turnpike, 781-270-9200.

“Carriage-town” mural, an Al Capp mural.

In Amesbury, good things come in small packages. By Diane Bair, Photography by Rene Burney

Amesbury is one of those small cities that seem to fly below the radar. Sitting just south of big, bustling Portsmouth and a smidge north of tiny-but-hip Newburyport, Amesbury will surprise you. You may well have one of those “Why haven’t I come here before?” moments, as you dig into a wonderful meal at Crave Brasserie & Wine Bar, set in an old train station, or sip a caramel apple martini at Barking Dog. The city’s vibe is friendly and homey, as evidenced by a restaurateur who directed us to a competitor when we arrived at her place just after closing time. “They’ll treat you right over there!” she said.

“Amesbury feels like a small town, even though it’s a city of 16,000 people,” says chocolatier Antoinette Whitney, who works at Ovedia Artisan Chocolates on Main Street. There’s a lot going on in town, and a great mix of businesses, she adds, “but everything is a little bit tucked away, so you may need to wander down a side street to find them.”

That is true. Perhaps the best way to discover Amesbury’s charms is to park a car—not a challenge here—and, suitably bundled up, take to the streets and let the city reveal itself. The first thing you’ll notice are the big murals depicting “Carriagetown”—yes, that was Amesbury. From the 1830s to the early 1900s, the city was a big name in the carriage trade.

Wheelwrights, metal workers, draftsmen, painters, woodworkers, upholsterers, and blacksmiths all worked to create Amesbury carriages, which were among the finest in the world. More than 100 businesses were engaged in the carriage trade during the boom years, a fact that will be celebrated here with the opening of the Amesbury Carriage Museum on Water Street later this year. Ultimately, Americans shifted their transport mode from carriages to automobiles, and in 1853, Amesbury became famous for making the first electric car (who knew?). Later, from 1895 to 1932, the city was known as a major producer of automobile body parts, a business that met its demise during the Great Depression.

You’ll also notice another colorful mural in town—hard to miss, because it looks like a giant comic strip—featuring the work of cartoonist Al Capp. Capp created the iconic “Li’l Abner” comic strip from 1934 to 1977, which ran in more than 900 newspapers, and the artist has close ties to Amesbury. Capp married a local woman, Catherine Wingate Cameron, and lived nearby; the couple is buried in Mt. Prospect Cemetery on Elm Street. (Fun fact: Capp created Sadie Hawkins Day, “a pseudo-holiday when girls chase boys,” according to a plaque at the Al Capp Amphitheater in the mill yard.)

Here’s another bit of Amesbury trivia you will discover by poking around a bit: The city was once famous for hats. Tucked away in a corner of the Salisbury Point Railroad Historical Society Display at 9 Water Street is “The Hattery,” a sampling of high-fashion headgear created by the Merrimac Hat Factory. This local business was the largest maker of hats in the U.S. in 1946, ultimately closing its doors in 1971 after hats had fallen out of fashion.

One of Amebury’s major trades, boat building, continues to this day. Lowell’s Boat Shop, founded in 1793, is the oldest continually operating boat shop in the country. Even now, skilled craftsmen build dories and skiffs that were once the mainstay of New England’s fishing industry and are still used today by Gloucester fishermen. Located on the banks of the Merrimack River, Lowell’s Boat Shop is a working museum and national landmark, dedicated to preserving and perpetuating the craft of wooden boat building. Guided tours, workshops, and events are offered throughout the year.

Of course, what made all these industries run was water. Although Amesbury isn’t on the coast, there’s plenty of water here: There are three public lakes in the area, and the Merrimack and Powwow rivers wind through the city. The Powwow’s 90-foot drop over a quarter mile powered the factories that once ran in the brick mill buildings.

Now, the historic mill buildings in the center of downtown are being revitalized to house retail stores, artists, and small businesses. The Cedar Street mill building has come alive with artists’ studios, which inject cultural life into this city. The annual Open Studio Tour, held in November, featured more than 70 artists and performers last year, and the presence of young creative types has impacted the mix of businesses in the heart of the city. Day spas like Essencia and a clothing store called Real Bodies, featuring items from Bali, sit alongside local institutions like W. E. Fuller & Co., a haberdashery that dates back to 1900. And, in a sure sign that the town has a dollop of hip, there’s the Riverwalk, a converted multi-use rail trail, which runs for 1.3 miles along the Powwow River and the old Boston & Maine rail bed. If all goes according to plan, the Riverwalk will be part of a 30-mile network of rail trails that will link the city with neighboring Salisbury and Newburyport.

For now, though, the greenway goes through downtown Amesbury—which isn’t a bad place to be.

The Details

Date of Settlement: 1642. Date of Incorporation: 1668. Zip code: 01913. Population: 16,283. Total area: 13.7 sq. miles. Median household income: $66,267. Schools: Amesbury Elementary School, Cashman Elementary School, Amesbury Middle School, Amesbury High School, Amesbury Academy Charter Public High School, Sparhawk School (a private school for grades K-12). Notable residents: Josiah Bartlett, signer of the Declaration of Independence/first governor of NH; Nathaniel Currier, lithographer; Mary Baker Eddy, founder of Christian Science; Robert Frost, poet; Susannah North Martin, victim of Salem Witch Trials; John Greenleaf Whittier, poet/editor/abolitionist.

The witchcraft Victims’ Memorial in a quiet corner of Danvers is one of those blink-and-you’ll-miss-it historic sites, but it bears witness to one of the darkest chapters in early American history. “Burn me or hang me,” reads a quotation attributed to George Jacobs, one of 25 people who died as a result of the 1692 Salem Village Witchcraft Hysteria, “but I will stand in the truth of Christ. I know nothing of witchcraft.”

Located at 176 Hobart Street, directly opposite the original site of the Meeting House, where most of the witchcraft examinations took place, the simple and poignant granite memorial provides an unbreakable link between the Danvers of today and the Salem Village of a bygone age. The “new” Salem may have secured the bragging rights to its infamous Witch Trials, but it’s the old Salem Village—which changed its name to Danvers in a district restructure in 1752—where the fear and hysteria first broke out and led to the deaths of 25 men and women, all of whom proclaimed their innocence to the end.

The Witchcraft Victim's Memorial

“It earned Salem Village a very bad reputation, which it carried for generations,” says Danvers Town Archivist Richard Trask. “So, when the District of Danvers was created in 1752, the people of Salem Village were very happy to lose that name.”

Time is also a great healer, and while the witchcraft spotlight is now set on Salem, Danvers has come to accept and commemorate its history in a quiet, respectful way.

“Danvers doesn’t yell about its witchcraft heritage,” says Trask. “Our sites are not big, flashy tourist attractions, and when people visit, they like the fact that we don’t make it into a money-making situation.”

Anyone with even a passing interest in history and architecture will love Danvers, a hard-working and steadfast town that has carefully preserved many significant houses and buildings dating back to the earliest settlement of Massachusetts. The historic district, stretching from Pine Street in the south to Maple Street in the north, contains eight important sites—including the beautiful Rebecca Nurse Homestead (circa 1678) and magnificent Glen Magna Farms estate (circa 1798)—all of which are open to the public seasonally or by appointment with the Danvers Historical Society. Another 125 notable private residences spanning four centuries can be viewed easily from the street.

Arguably the finest building in downtown is the Peabody Institute Library (see “Crown Jewel”), built in 1892 with money donated by native son George Peabody. Located next to Mill Pond in Sylvan Street, this outstanding Georgian Revival building bears a striking resemblance to the White House and has been used as its substitute in a number of films and documentaries.

While Danvers embraces its past—“We take our history very seriously,” says Town Manager Wayne Marquis—all eyes are on an increasingly bright future with a strong focus on education, employment, and family values. More than $250 million is being pumped into education projects alone, with renovations and additions to Danvers High School and North Shore Community College, not to mention the anticipated merger between the renowned Essex Agricultural and Technical High School and North Shore and Peabody Vocational Technical schools.

MGH has invested $100 million in a new outpatient care facility here, and several other major employers, including Osram Sylvania, are helping to fuel employment, growth, and confidence. With two industrial parks, three malls, a thousand hotel rooms, numerous car dealerships, dentists, cosmetic surgeons, restaurants, and small businesses, Danvers appears to be riding out today’s economic uncertainties.

“We have a diverse commercial and industrial base,” says Marquis. “We’re a fiscally conservative town, paying our way as we go and operating within budget. We don’t have all of our eggs in one basket.”

Community spirit also runs high. The town rallied after a chemical explosion in 2006, raising $500,000 in private donations for those who lost their homes, and a new summer program called Project Sunshine launched last year to assist homeless families in the community. It’s a far cry from the dark days of the Salem Village Witchcraft Hysteria, but like those defiant souls who went to their deaths defending their innocence, the people of Danvers don’t take anything lying down.

Salem may be the witch-kitsch capital of the world, but Danvers is the real deal—and not a broomstick or pointy hat in sight.

The Details - Date of Settlement: 1637. Date of Incorporation: 1757. Zip code: 01923. Population: 26,493. Total Area: 13.5 square miles. Median household income: $58,779. Schools: St. John’s Prep; Holten Richmond Middle School; Danvers High School; Essex Agricultural & Technical High School. Notable residents: John Endicott, first Governor of Massachusetts; Rebecca Nurse, hanged for witchcraft; John Greenleaf Whittier, poet; Mark Bavaro, former New York Giants tight end; Erin McLean, Jeopardy! winner.

Crown Jewel - The Peabody Institute Library is guardian to some of the rarest books in America

Peabody Institute Library

Danvers may not shout about its witchcraft heritage, but it does everything in its power to preserve and protect it. For the past 40 years, town archivist Richard Trask has been acquiring, documenting, and safeguarding the Brehaut Witchcraft Collection—the world’s largest compendium of imprints relating to the 1692 Salem Village Witchcraft Hysteria—keeping it under lock and key in downtown’s imposing Peabody Institute Library.

“The witchcraft is our crown jewel,” he says, with more than a hint of pride. “It’s what gives us notoriety around the country, and we have a complete collection here being preserved for future generations.”

Stored in a humidity-controlled vault in the library’s Archival Center, the collection includes rare books, manuscripts, and imprints documenting the witchcraft era and dating back to the 17th century, as well as other precious items, including two original copies of the Declaration of Independence. While the collection isn’t on public display, Trask has shared its contents with many documentary makers, writers, and scholars. He is currently working with Pulitzer Prize-winning author Stacy Schiff, who is researching a new book on Salem witchcraft.

On the Town -There’s a lot to discover in Danvers

Glen Magna Farms This beautiful estate was first occupied in the 1790s. It was  bought in 1814 by wealthy Salem shipping merchant Capt. Joseph Peabody and later embellished by his granddaughter, Ellen Peabody Endicott. The mansion and gardens recall the golden age of American architecture. Ingersoll Street, 978-774-9165. Derby Summer House Tucked away in the grounds of Glen Magna, Derby Summer House is a delightful Federal-style garden house built in 1794 for wealthy Salem merchant Elias Hasket Derby and moved here in 1901. The house has a walled rose garden designed by Herbert Browne. 978-777-1666. Rebecca

Treats at Cakes for Occasions

Nurse Homestead Little has changed here since Rebecca Nurse was hanged on charges of witchcraft in 1692. The estate, now owned by the Danvers Alarm List Company, an 18th-century reenactment group, consists of her original home, the cemetery where she is believed to be buried, and a recreation of the Salem Village Meeting House. 149 Pine Street, 978-774-8799. Putnam House Twelve generations of Putnams lived in this elegant house (circa 1648), including Joseph, who famously spoke out against the Witchcraft Hysteria in 1692. Its best-known resident was General Israel Putnam, who commanded the troops at the Battle of Bunker Hill. 431 Maple Street, 978-777-1666. 

Cakes for Occasions Nationally acclaimed pastry chef Kelly Delaney is best known for her custom-made wedding and special occasion cakes, but her store also offers an array of scrumptious buttercream-frosted cupcakes, European-style tarts and pastries, and other lip-smacking treats. 57 Maple Street, 978-774-4545, cakes4occasions.com. 9 Elm American Bistro Chef Matt Sanidas continues to wow diners at his beloved bistro. Enjoy a specialty martini or local craft beer before tucking into a succulent filet mignon or pan-seared scallops with truffle-whipped potato. 9 Elm Street, 978-774-9436. Cherry Farm Creamery A Danvers institution since 1976, this fun creamery serves 30 flavors of ice creams, as well as low-fat soft serve, frozen yogurts, ice cream cakes, sorbets, and other family favorites. 210 Conant Street, 978-774-0519. Danversport Yacht Club The lively yacht club is a great spot for a relaxed lunch or dinner during summer months. The welcoming Grille and Bistro serves good food, and the breezy outdoor patio overlooks manicured gardens, the harbor, and marina. 161 Elliott Street, 978-774-8621. 7 Grill The new kid on the Danvers dining scene has lucky number 7 as its signature theme, but it doesn’t need any luck serving up premium-quality meats and seafood that are deliciously seasoned and fresh from the grill. 194 Endicott Street, 978-646-9911.

Gloucester has evolved from strictly a fishing hub to a center of culture. 

“I don’t know if there’s another place that has all that Gloucester has,” says Joe Ciaramitaro, creator of the acclaimed blog Good Morning Gloucester and co-owner of Captain Joe and Sons Wholesale Lobster Company.

Dating back to the early 1600s, when Gloucester became the first settlement of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, this town by the sea quickly became the center of the fishing industry. Home of America’s original seaport and the oldest working art colony in North America, Gloucester was previously a one-dimensional fishing town. The waterfront town has since diversified into a tourist and travel destination rich with art, culture, music, food, and a strong sense of community.

The fishing and tourism industries have become a symbiotic duo here, drawing people from all over the world to experience Gloucester’s cultural riches and acclaimed restaurants. It all started about 14 years ago with what is known to locals as the “Restaurant Renaissance,” which welcomed a plethora of esteemed eateries. Soon following the restaurants was the barrage of coffee shop and museum openings to caffeinate and stimulate the masses, along with these other opportunities that make Gloucester unique.

For breakfast, pop into Pleasant Street Tea Company in the morning for a selection of fresh-baked goods on top of their uber-tasty organic coffees, over 100 varieties of tea, and freshly pressed juices and smoothies. For a fruitful historical experience, the Gloucester Maritime Heritage Center takes you back into the prevalent fishing times with hands-on activities and aquarium touch tanks.  At downtown Gloucester’s famous waterfront, you can embark on a once-in-a-lifetime whale watching experience aboard the 7 Seas Whale Watch, or hop onboard the schooner Thomas E. Lannon for a sail while listening to tales of fisherman Thomas Lannon’s adventures at sea—one of which includes the infamous Gloucester Sea Serpent.

The abundant offerings don’t stop there. Located on Rogers Street overlooking the boat-filled harbor, the Minglewood Tavern has a variety of mouth-watering pizzas and calzones, oven-roasted favorites, and an eclectic music scene. In warmer months, stick your toes in the sand at one of Gloucester’s 10 beautiful beaches. If you feel like taking in the scene with a leisurely stroll, park your car for free on the grass outside of the Gloucester House Restaurant, or sit on one of the waterside benches on Western Avenue and watch the boats go by under a beautiful harbor sunset.

Gloucester block parties give yet another reason for locals to stay and travelers to visit. Founded in 2008, the popular affairs take place on the third Saturday of every month during the summer. Known as one of Gloucester’s best attractions, some of the town’s favorite restaurants set up shop outside so that people can enjoy their delicious dishes alfresco. Activities range from classical circus shows to performances by a variety of musicians that grace the Hancock and Porter stages.

Another crowd pleaser is the Cape Ann Farmers’ Market, which hits the streets of Gloucester every Thursday from June through October. For the last six years, the farmers’ market has provided Cape Ann with local goods while supporting small-scale production and sustainability.  The Cape Ann Farmers’ Market has also organized the Backyard Growers program (BYG), which helps low- to moderate-income families and residents create and maintain sustainable backyard gardens. The BYG provides all of the necessary goods (installation included), like compost, seeds, and raised beds. Not only does the program provide low-income residents with the opportunity to grow their own fresh produce, but it also helps to build and grow the community. The organization also trains and mentors growers to make sure the gardens are maintained with the utmost care.
Gloucester’s delectable restaurants, lively music, rich history, strong sense of community, breathtaking beaches, friendly residents, and ample attractions are just a few reasons that this rejuvenated fishing town has made its mark on the North Shore.

Gloucester’s Ryan & Wood Distillery keeps spirits high on the North Shore. Founded in 2006 by Bob Ryan and Dave Wood, Ryan & Wood Distillery is a highlight of Gloucester’s growing food-and-beverage scene. The inspiration for the distillery, which produces Knockabout Gin, Fully Cove Rum, and Beauport Vodka, was drawn from the traditional treasures of historic Gloucester. With Ryan’s extensive background working as a waterfront seafood processor and Wood’s knowledge of business and law (he’s a lawyer by trade), the two have come together to produce “small-batch, handcrafted spirits” in the heart of Gloucester. The spirits are meticulously distilled in very small batches in a 600-liter alembic copper pot, which has been used for hundreds of years in the distilling business to ensure superior quality of  handcrafted spirits. Coming straight from Germany, the Ryan & Wood still (an apparatus for distilling) is custom-made and of the best international quality. The Ryan & Wood team unabashedly enforces extra effort and consistent monitoring to turn out top-notch products, and your taste buds will agree. 15 Great Republic Drive, 978-281-2282

Gloucester’s waterfront and beyond. Latitude 43 Restaurant & Bar serves up a variety of delicious dishes in its eco-friendly building, while live music draws crowds to its backroom bar. 25 Rogers Street, 978-281-0223. Alchemy, in the heart of downtown, offers a variety of tasty tapas like crispy local calamari, housemade ravioli, and arancinis in a chic ambiance and at affordable prices. 3 Duncan Street, 978-281-3997. Virgilio’s Italian Bakery has been owned and operated by the Virgilio family since 1961. Virgilio’s breads are prepared daily and sold to dozens of local markets and restaurants. Stop in for a St. Joseph sandwich, with fresh Italian meats, imported provolone cheese, oil, and oregano. 29 Main Street, 978-283-5295. Catch 22 Bistro serves up a large selection of beer and wine. With a variety of delicious courses on its menu (think fig-and-walnut ravioli), Catch 22 has certainly made a name for itself in town. 14 Rogers Street, 978-283-0247. Alexandra’s Bread Company touts hearty breads and to-die-for scones, as well as retro oilcloth bags that are perfect for toting a fresh loaf to a picnic or a dinner party. 265 Main Street, 978-281-3064.

The Cape Ann Museum is rich in art, history, and cultural heritage. Also known for its inexpensive admissions, the museum offers a rotation of special exhibits throughout the year. 27 Pleasant Street, 978-283-0455. Gloucester Stage Company, co-founded in 1979 by Geoff Richon, Denny Blodgett, and Israel Horovitz, has produced more than 35 world-premiere productions. Youth acting workshops, play readings, and other special events are also on offer. 267 Main Street, 978-281-4433. The Schooner Thomas E. Lannon offers sails and charters along Gloucester Harbor, the perfect way to get a taste of what it was like to experience the open sea on a fishing schooner decades ago. 63 Rogers Street, 978-281-6634. Gloucester Maritime Heritage Center offers hands-on activities for all ages. Dip your hands into the touch tanks filled with sea urchins and star fish, sound a 100-year-old foghorn, or take in a panoramic view of Ten Pound Island. 9 Harbor Loop, 978-281-0470. 7 Seas Whale Watch, a high-speed vessel, runs daily with a variety of times to choose from and has been featured on the Discovery Channel and National Geographic. 7 Seas Wharf, 888-283-1776. Toodeloos on historic Main Street has a plethora of toys for kids, and the goods keep rolling in with daily shipments. 137 Main Street, 978-281-2011. Village Silversmith is filled with gems from around the world that are mounted in sterling silver settings. Recently begun mining in Northern Mexico means plenty more treasures to come. 138 Main Street, 978-283-8811.

In Beverly, the arts, culture, and history collide in an inspiring ocean setting. By, Meryl D. Pearlstein

Tradition, spirit, and the arts are the backbone of seaside Beverly. Offering more of a small-city feel than its immediate neighbors, Beverly mixes the young spirit of a college town with the stability of an established residential and business community. Neighborhoods like Beverly Farms, Prides Crossing, and Montserrat offer green spaces not just for those with private estates along Route 127 but also for younger families living in single-family houses or singles occupying downtown apartments. This, together with 16-acre Lynch Park, earned Beverly the moniker “The Garden City” of the North Shore.

Inspiring controversy to this day, Beverly considers itself the birthplace of the American Navy, citing the departure of General Washington’s first armed ship, the Hannah, from its harbor in 1775 as qualification. (Neighboring Marblehead begs to differ, as the crew and outfitting of the Hannah originated there, so goes the dispute.) Another “first” inspiring continued discussion is Beverly’s claim of being the birthplace of the American industrial revolution, with the first cotton mill in the United States (1787) once located at the corner of Cabot and Dodge streets. Other sites, such as Slater Mill in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, contest vehemently, pointing to the unprofitability of the Beverly Cotton Manufactory as a disqualifier.

In Beverly, the arts filter into all aspects of life. Visual arts are showcased in Montserrat College of the Arts’ galleries, which are open to the public. Performing arts are free to the community as well, with outdoor concerts drawing spectators to Lynch Park and other locations. Pop-up poetry events are one of the city’s newest endeavors, with “The Improbable Places Poetry Tour” making appearances in venues as varied as the shallow end of a swimming pool or a bike shop.

The town has been a destination for music, dance, and theatre for more than 50 years, thanks to the North Shore Music Theatre’s celebrity concerts, musical productions, and children’s programs. Recently bought by a private organization, the North Shore Music Theatre is particularly well known for its summer stock program, with classic musicals and touring companies regularly including Beverly on their schedules. Endicott College’s new performing arts center offers the promise of even more arts for the community.  The longest-running magic show in the country, “Le Grand David and His Spectacular Magic Company,” takes place every Sunday at the Cabot Street Cinema Theatre, a 1920 classic movie palace, originally designed with both live performances and movie screenings in mind. The theatre also showcases art films along with other more popular titles. Beverly’s second classic playhouse, the Larcom, dates from 1912 and was restored from top to bottom 30 years ago. It again delights audiences with the magic troupe’s second production, “An Anthology of Stage Magic.”

On the North Shore, Beverly has a reputation as a jazz city. Replacing the long-gone but cherished jazz club Sandy’s, Chianti is now as much a jazz spot as a Tuscan trattoria. Brenden Crocker’s Wild Horse Café mixes martinis with music, and Tryst serves up a weekend jazz breakfast (reservations are strongly advised).

Beverly gives residents another reason to stay in town and for visitors to stop by: the Cummings Center. This quarter-mile expanse of buildings was the original location of the United Shoe Machinery Corporation, known as “The Shoe,” and home to a flourishing industry in the early-to-mid 1900s. Purchased in 1996 by Cummings Properties and transformed into a collection of stores, restaurants, and businesses, the architecturally and historically significant site has created new jobs as well as new options for dining and entertainment, plus a museum setting for viewing historical shoe manufacturing equipment and vintage photographs.

With its seaside setting and beaches, vibrant downtown center, public outdoor park, stately homes and estates, affordable condos, focus on in-city employment and the arts, a public golf and tennis club, and five railway stops on a commuter route running from Boston to Rockport, you can understand why so many people call Beverly a city with a small-town feel.

Dream Theatre Beverly’s crown jewel of performing arts affords entertainment and a dose of nostalgia.

One of the few remaining grand movie palaces of the 1920s is Beverly’s own Cabot Street Cinema Theatre. The 750-seat Cabot screens “films worth seeing more than once” and is home to the world’s longest-running magic show, Le Grand David and His Own Spectacular Magic Company, now in its 35th year. It was thanks to this production that the dusty Cabot was saved from the wrecking ball in the 1970s. After a complete refurbishment, it reopened for movies in 1976, and then introduced in 1977 the magic show that has attracted patrons throughout the world. Today, Cabot is still pure vaudeville with filigree accoutrements, Art Nouveau murals, red fabric seat cushions, and a giant chandelier gracing a rotunda, as well as a tuxedoed usher to greet patrons. For Le Grand David, the audience enters through a dragon’s mouth into a world of illusion. Buy some popcorn, marvel at the elaborate production, and imagine yourself back in a time without the Internet, video games, or smartphones. 286 Cabot St., 978-927-3677, legranddavid.com, cabotcinemamovies.com.

On the Town Beverly’s best in shopping, eating, and relaxing

Dane Street Beach If pebbles on the sand and occasional rocks in the water don’t bother you, you’ll love this public beach in Beverly. When the tide is out, you can walk out far to explore the tide pools as you gaze across Salem Harbor. There’s a bathhouse, a kid’s play structure, and street parking. Dane St. and Lothrop St.

Lynch Park A 16-acre jewel with beaches, kayaking, an Italian rose garden, and spaces for music performances, Lynch Park hosts Beverly’s Yankee homecoming commemoration each August. 55 Ober St., bevrec.com.

The Balch House For a dose of 17th-century history, The Balch House provides a peek into one of the oldest wood-frame houses in the U.S. Tours via the Beverly Historical Society are scheduled Tuesday through Saturday in the summer and fall. 448 Cabot St., 978-922-1186, beverlyhistory.org.

Casa de Moda A destination gift shop with myriad goodies for viewing, smelling, and trying on; here’s where you’ll find the perfect ballet outfit, candle, or piece of jewelry for that hard-to-buy-for someone. 272 Cabot St., 978-922-8100.

Yarns in the Farms For the knitter, the Beverly Farms yarn store has it all, from materials to instructional books and knitting classes. 641 Hale St., 978-927-2108, yarnsinthefarms.com.

Prides Crossing Confections Fudge and handmade chocolates are North Shore traditions, and Prides Crossing Confections offers some of the best. Don’t leave without trying the chocolate-coated caramel turtles. 590 Hale St., 978-927-2185, pridescrossingconfections.com.

Marino’s Café A 10-minute walk from the Cummings Center and steps from the train station, Marino’s Café is a convenient choice for homemade sandwiches, salads, and entrees with an Italian flair. Don’t miss open mic, trivia, and wing nights. 200 Rantoul St., 978-922-9288, marinoscafe.net.

Anchor Pub & Grille Across from Beverly Harbor, the Anchor is a Beverly tradition for meals throughout the day and some of the freshest lobsters and clams in town. The bar promises a good scene into the wee hours. 20 Cabot St., 978-921-0504.

The Beverly Depot This train station-turned-eatery offers classic fare, from seafood to roast beef to aged steaks. There’s nothing trendy here, but the food is consistent and patrons of all ages are welcome. 10 Park St., 978-927-5402, beverlydepot.com.

Henry’s For more than 65 years, Henry’s has helped locals find the freshest in baked goods, deli items, meat, and produce. Ask for help assembling a picnic for the beach. 588 Cabot St., 978-922-3885, henrysofbeverly.com.

Wylie Inn and Conference Center You’ll feel like one of the Beverly elite at this 92-room inn along coastal Route 127. The inn sits on a 10-acre campus adjacent to the 1900s-era Tupper Manor (the conference center) with a striking fountain and lawn. Beach access and ocean views complete the feeling of living on an estate. 295 Hale St., 866-333-0859, wyliecenter.com.

THE DETAILS

Date of Settlement: 1626. Date of Incorporation: 1668. Zip Code: 01915. Population: 39,502 Total area: 15.4 square miles. Median household income: $68,407. Schools: Public ele-mentary: 5; public middle: 1; public high school: 1. Notable Residents: John Updike, writer; President William Taft (summer resident); Stu Irving, 1972 U.S. Hockey silver medalist; Henry Clay Frick, industrialist/financier (summer resident); Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr., associate justice, U.S. Supreme Court (summer resident); Henry Cabot Lodge, politician/statesman (summer resident); Dave Leonard, former Baltimore Orioles pitcher; A.J. Barnett, FOX meteorologist; Paula Cole, singer.

Newport, Rhode Island is awash in opulence, from its many famous mansions to its breathtaking beaches and coast. By, Margaret Loftus

Ever since wealthy industrialists began building their summer “cottages” along its shoreline in the 19th century, Newport has been synonymous with R&R. Most of the Gilded Age mansions are museums now, but the good life is still alive and well—and only an hour-and-a-half drive from the North Shore.

Stay Built in 1873 for New York Congressman John Winthrop Chanler and his wife, Margaret Astor Ward, The Chanler at Cliff Walk hearkens back to the graciousness of the town’s golden era, with its manicured gardens and lawn overlooking the Atlantic. Each of the 20 guest rooms features a unique décor theme inspired by history—the ornate Louis XVI room is accented by hand-painted leaf and ribbon designs copied from a Normandy chateau—or the natural beauty of the coast, like the Block Island ocean villa, with its washed green and amber palette, wainscoting, and private courtyard meant to evoke a cottage-like feel. 117 Memorial Blvd., 866-793-5664, thechanler.com. While the Chanler has on-call car service, gratis, to zip you the mile into downtown, Vanderbilt Hall is half a block away from the action on Thames Street. The luxe inn originally served as a residence for Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt more than 100 years ago. Several multi-million-dollar renovations later, the mansion has been transformed into 33 guest rooms elegantly appointed with Italian linens and cashmere throws, including a newly restored 1,000-square-foot suite. Escape the bustle of town in the hotel’s spa, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, and sauna and steam rooms on a rooftop deck. 41 Mary St., 888-826-4255, vanderbilthall.com.

Eat Chef Thomas Duffy at The Chanler’s Spiced Pear has the magic touch when it comes to local seafood, filling delicate ravioli with lobster and ricotta and show- casing diver scallops with jumbo gulf shrimp atop a crispy risotto cake. Monty’s at Vanderbilt Hall serves gastro pub-inspired fare, like sautéed Berkshire pork loin with arancini, apple gelée, and Calvados sauce, in a cozy fireside setting. For al fresco dining with panoramic views of Narragansett Bay, head to the Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar, which sources much of its seafood and produce locally. Seafood is the star here. Don’t miss the scallop chowder and “bag of doughnuts”—lobster, crab, and shrimp fritters with chipotle-maple aioli. Sayer’s Wharf, 401-846-2260, mooringrestaurant.com.

See Beginning in the Chanler’s backyard, the Cliff Walk is a 3.5-mile scenic walkway that traces the coastline past some of Newport’s most famous estates. cliffwalk.com. For a closer look, tour one or more of the 11 Newport Mansions run by the Preservation Society of Newport County, from Rosecliff, modeled after the Grand Trianon in Versailles, to the Breakers, an Italian Renaissance palazzo built by the Vanderbilt Family. 401-817-1000, newportmansions.org. Save time for a peek at Rough Point, one of a handful of grand homes of tobacco heiress Doris Duke that served as repositories for her enormous collection of fine art, furnishings, and antiques that she acquired from around the world. 401-847-8344, newportrestoration.org.