Holiday Meals From Local Experts

Nine A-list chefs-and a wine expert-from the North Shore band together to create the ultimate holiday meal with a modern twist on the classics. By Anna + David Kasabian, Photographs by Glenn Scott, Styling by Catrine Kelty

Want to put some excitement back into that same-old, carved-in-stone, been-eating-it-since-the-Ice-Age traditional holiday dinner? Simple. Invite nine North Shore A-list chefs to your house and ask each one to bring a dish to share. Not only would dinner be a breeze, but you’re guaranteed a mind-bending spread of tasty, imaginative interpretations of the well-worn but immortal classics. However, just in case the chefs can’t make it, here’s the next best thing: their recipes. Most of these will produce leftovers, another must-have for every holiday dinner. Dig in!

Aunt Mary’s Eggnog

Chef Kate Hammond, The Grapevine Restaurant, Salem

Serves 8

Nothing gets a festive event off on the right foot like a good seasonal cocktail-in this case, eggnog. Hammond’s number-one favorite eggnog cocktail is luxurious, super-thick, and made with a recipe handed down from Miss Mary Wilson, a lifelong resident of Bay View Avenue in Salem Willows, known to one and all as Aunt Mary. This makes a yummy dessert, too.

6     eggs, separated

1/2      c. granulated sugar

1/2     c. bourbon whiskey

1/2     c. Cognac

1/4      tsp. salt

3     c. heavy cream

freshly grated nutmeg for dusting

Using an electric mixer, beat together yolks and sugar until thick and pale yellow. Mix in bourbon whiskey and Cognac. Transfer to a large bowl and chill for at least three hours. Clean and dry mixing bowl and attachments thoroughly. Beat egg whites until frothy. Add salt. Continue beating to stiff peaks. Set aside. Whip the heavy cream to medium peaks. Alternately fold the whites and whipped cream into the yolk and liquor base. Gently stir until combined. Chill for one hour. Garnish each serving with a dusting of freshly grated nutmeg.

Maple Bourbon Lacquered Turkey

Chef Stephen Ryan, The Grand Cafe at Emerson Inn By The Sea, Rockport

Serves 8

One Thanksgiving years ago, while living in Vermont, Ryan and friends found themselves snowbound with little more than a turkey, some bourbon, and a lot of maple syrup. It’s no surprise that all three ingredients found their way into this recipe, which remains Ryan’s favorite main dish for the holidays.

6    bay leaves

3     tbsp. whole coriander seed

2     tbsp. black pepper corns

3     tbsp. juniper berry

1 1/2     c. kosher salt

3     c. brown sugar

1     10-lb. turkey, preferably fresh

4     c. bourbon

2     c. high-quality local maple syrup

1     tbsp. ground, crystallized ginger

2     cloves, whole

4     tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

The turkey for this recipe is brined, which means it is soaked in flavored liquid. To make the brining liquid, combine bay leaves, coriander seed, peppercorns, and juniper berry in a clean coffee grinder and process until turned to dust. Fill a large pot with 4 gallons of water. Add the spices, salt, and brown sugar. Bring to a boil. Cool to room temperature. Clean turkey under cool running water, place in brining liquid, and refrigerate 6 hours. Make maple-bourbon glaze by slowly heating bourbon in a 3-quart or larger saucepan until steaming, but not boiling. Stand back from the stovetop and carefully light vapors on fire using a long wooden match or longneck butane lighter. Don’t shake or move pan while flaming. Simmer until reduced by half. Stir in maple syrup, ginger, and cloves, and simmer 10 minutes. Preheat oven to 400º. Remove turkey from brine; rinse and pat dry. Place in roasting pan and smear with butter. Season with salt and pepper. Place uncovered in oven.

After 30 minutes, reduce temperature to 225º. Baste every 30 minutes using the maple bourbon glaze, incorporating pan juices as you go. Remove turkey from oven when the timer pops up, or a thermometer placed in thigh joint reads 165º and juices run clear. Rest bird for 30 minutes before carving.

Dijon Mashed Potatoes

Chef Edward Robinson, Alchemy Cafe & Bistro, Gloucester

Serves 8

During his numerous culinary expeditions to France, Edward saw Dijon mustard show up in foods in unexpected ways, including these simple but spectacular spuds. “It’s typical of what I’ve seen in France, and I came back with this, among other recipes.” To add visual appeal and a toasty character, Edward uses a piping bag to transfer his mashed potatoes to a casserole dish and then roasts them to form a crust. Bold flavor brings these mashed potatoes out of the background and onto center stage.

4     lbs. Yukon Gold potatoes

2     c. heavy cream

1/2     lb. unsalted butter

1/4     c. Dijon mustard

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Peel, wash, and dice potatoes. Simmer diced potatoes in lightly salted water until tender. Warm cream and butter in small sauce pan. Drain cooked potatoes and run them through a food mill, or use a potato masher to puree. Mix in heavy cream, butter, and Dijon mustard. Season with salt and pepper. Pipe mashed potatoes into a casserole dish and bake at 425º until brown and bubbling, about 20 minutes. Bring to the table or buffet in its casserole pan.

Depot Diner Turkey Gravy

Chef Peter Hantzopoulos, Depot Diner, Beverly

Yields 6 cups

Order the famous Roasted Turkey Open Face Sandwich at Depot Diner and this is the glorious gravy it will be bathed in. Instead of a turkey carcass (which you may not have on hand until after your holiday meal), buy a few pounds of turkey legs, backs, necks, or wings and use those instead. It will be close to the original-not identical, but still quite delicious.

1    carcass of small (10- to 12-pound) roasted turkey, meat removed and reserved for another use

3     tbsp. olive oil

1/3      c. diced white onion

1    clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

1/2     tsp. dried rosemary

1/2     tsp. dried oregano

1/2     bay leaf

1/4     lb. margarine (one stick)

1     c. all-purpose white flour

Preheat oven to 300º. Break the carcass up somewhat and toss with olive oil, onion, garlic, rosemary, oregano, and bay leaf until everything is coated in oil. Transfer to a shallow roasting pan. Roast 2 hours, or until onions are well browned. Transfer to large stockpot with 3 quarts cold water. Simmer gently 2 1/2 hours or until reduced by half. Strain well and set aside. In a saucepan set on medium heat, melt the margarine, add the flour, and whisk until combined. Cook while whisking for 1 minute. Carefully add the turkey stock to the butter and flour mixture and whisk well until lumps are removed. Simmer gently, occasionally stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan to avoid sticking, for 5 to 7 minutes before serving.

Corn Bread & Sausage Stuffing

Chef John Ingalls, Palmers Restaurant & Tavern, Andover

Serves 8

As a boy, Ingalls tugged at Grandma’s apron strings as he learned recipes by heart and discovered how tradition and simplicity govern the New England kitchen. These are values Ingalls embraces to this day and which are reflected in his richly flavored version of a New England classic. John suggests that “an easy alternative to stale bread is to use a 14-ounce bag of packaged cornbread stuffing mix, such as Pepperidge Farm.”

3     tbsp. olive oil

1     c. diced yellow onion

2     c. diced celery

1     tsp. ground black pepper

2     tbsp. unsalted butter

1    lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

3     c. cubed stale cornbread

2     c. cubed stale white bread (or breadcrumbs)

1 1/2     tsp. Bell’s poultry seasoning

1     tbsp. chopped fresh Italian parsley

Preheat oven to 350º. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and celery. Saute until onion is translucent. Add ground black pepper, butter, sausage, and poultry seasoning. Cook while stirring and chopping until sausage is broken up and fully cooked and fat is rendered. Add cornbread and white bread to the pan. Toss until combined. Add chicken stock and parsley and toss gently until the mixture is moistened throughout. Transfer to baking dish and place in oven uncovered until the top is well browned, about 20 minutes.

Cranberry Orange Ginger Sauce

Chef Scott Brankman, Jack-Tar American Tavern, Marblehead

Serves 8

Brankman sure grew up with one hip grandmother; among her avant-garde fusion food inventions was inclusion of Asian ginger in her Massachusetts-grown-cranberry sauce. That innovation inspired Brankman to take it even further, resulting in this recipe, the one Brankman now makes for his family’s holiday feast. As for salt and pepper, Scott uses “just a little, but it makes a huge difference.”

1    12-oz. bag fresh cranberries

1 1/2     c. no-pulp orange juice

2/3    c. granulated sugar

1    thumb-size piece of fresh ginger, peeled

1     pinch each of salt and fresh-ground black pepper

Put cranberries, orange juice, sugar, and ginger in a medium sauce pan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook while stirring until all the cranberries have popped, about 10 minutes. Remove ginger and discard. Transfer cranberry sauce mixture to a bowl and refrigerate until serving time.

Chipotle-Butternut Squash Gratin

Chef Steve Nelson, Nathaniel’s at the Hawthorne Hotel, Salem

Serves 8

Here’s a whole new way to look at butternut squash: Instead of the typical mush drenched in butter, this is a more sophisticated approach that gives butternut its due as a vegetable of subtle texture and distinctive flavor, capable of blending wonderfully with a myriad of other flavors.

1     large (2 1/2 lbs.) whole, fresh butternut squash, or 2 lbs. peeled and halved

3     tbsp. butter, plus some for pan

1     small onion, diced

1    pint heavy cream

2     canned chipotle peppers

1     tsp. red adobo sauce from chipotle pepper can

1/2     c. shredded Parmesan cheese

chopped fresh chives or fresh parsley for garnish

Preheat oven to 350º. In a frying pan set on medium, melt butter and saute onion until light golden brown. Puree cooked onion in a blender or food processer with chipotle peppers and adobo. Add heavy cream. Season with salt and pepper. Peel and halve squash, removing the seeds. Slice thinly into crescent shapes. Choose a casserole dish so that squash slices will fill it 2/3 of the way. Butter the casserole dish and cascade squash slices along the bottom in layers. Pour heavy cream and onion mix over squash. Don’t cover the entire surface of the squash-some should show through. Cover with buttered (or oil-sprayed) parchment paper (optional) and then aluminum foil. Make 4 1-inch slits in foil. Bake 75 minutes. Remove foil and check for tenderness. Top with Parmesan cheese. Return to the oven uncovered, increase heat to 400º, and bake until top browns, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and, when ready to serve, sprinkle with chopped herbs.

Spanish-Style Haricot Vert

Chef Harley Smith, Ten Center, Newburyport

Serves 8

Usually relegated to a dull, supporting role on the dinner table (after all, something has to be green), we should have known that this is what green beans have always wanted to be: bold, exotic, daring, even exciting. Thank chef Harley Smith for an unexpected tour de force of flavors and textures starring the formerly humble green bean.

2     lbs. petite French green beans (haricot vert)

4    oz. Spanish Valdeon bleu cheese (or other bleu cheese), crumbled

4    oz. Spanish Marcona almonds, whole (or other almonds)

4    oz. dried cranberries

4    oz. unsalted butter

Trim the stems from the green beans. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rapid boil. Add green beans and cook 4 to 5 minutes or until al dente. Drain the green beans and immerse in ice water to stop the cooking. Once cooled (1 to 2 minutes), drain green beans again and pat dry with a towel. Add butter to a large saute pan set on high. When the butter browns and starts to smoke, add green beans. Cook green beans for 1 minute, tossing occasionally. Add bleu cheese, almonds and dried cranberries to the pan and cook for about 1 more minute, tossing gently, or until bleu cheese just begins to melt. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and serve.

Stone Soup Indian Pudding

Chef Mark Macklin, Stone Soup Cafe, Ipswich

Serves 8

Indian pudding is a dish as old as the Massachusetts Bay Colony itself. Back then, corn cooked with molasses was an oft-eaten staple that was cheap and easy to get, but it surely tasted nothing like this. The heart of this recipe, the pudding, is pretty authentic and, when served with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, is true to the modern tradition. But try it with Bananas Foster ice cream, like they do at Stone Soup; you’ll never look back.

2 1/2    tbsp. unsalted butter

4     c. whole milk, divided

1     c. whole milk, cold

5    tbsp. yellow cornmeal

1/3     c. molasses

1/4     tsp. kosher salt

1/4     tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2     tsp. ground ginger

1     egg, beaten

1     pint Bananas Foster ice cream (Häagen-Dazs or other)

Preheat oven to 300º. Lightly grease 8 4-ounce ramekins with a small amount of butter. Heat 3 cups milk until it steams, being careful not to boil it. Stir in corn meal and immediately reduce heat to low. Cook while stirring for 5 to 7 minutes, until the cornmeal thickens. Turn off heat, stir in remaining butter, molasses, salt, ground cinnamon, ground ginger, and egg. Pour equal amounts of mixture into each ramekin. Bake 30 minutes. Remove from oven and pour 1 ounce of the remaining cold milk on top of pudding in each ramekin. Return ramekins to oven for 90 minutes or until the tops brown. Serve hot, topped with ice cream.

Wines for the Holidays

Stacey Fraser, wine director at Grapevine restaurant in Salem, suggests several outstanding American wines, each chosen for its power to pair with our holiday menu. She also, thankfully, stuck to selections that are readily-available and moderately priced, much appreciated in times when we’re all looking for a little extra value.

Domaine Chandon N.V. Brut is a festive sparkler that’s a fun way to start the celebration. It’s refreshing yet dry, with aromas and tastes of apple, pear, and a hint of citrus with spice in the finish. Average retail $17 to $19. 2007 Montinore Estate Gewurtztraminer is a biodynamically farmed wine from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It has an intense nose of spices and florals, with rose, lychee, pink grapefruit, and Mandarin orange on the palate. Average retail $12 to $13. 2008 Etude Pinot Gris from Napa/Carneros is a bit more sophisticated, with a rich, complex fusion of mineral, citrus, apricot, orange blossom, and white peach that’s smooth and refreshing. Average retail $17 to $19. 2008 MacMurray Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is a great value for a pinot noir this good, with its lush aromas and forward flavors of red currant, raspberry, sage, mushroom and earthy autumn leaves. Average retail $17 to $19. 2007 Liberty School Cuvee is Fraser’s “big” choice, a Rhone-like blend of several different and distinctive varietals. The result is lots of fruit and spice in the nose and a jammy fruit bomb on the palate. Average retail $12 to $14.