Fresh, fruity, and sweet with gentle bubbles, Moscato has been gaining popularity for a while now. It even spawned the phrase “Moscato Madness” as growers and producers scrambled to keep up with demand that was rising at more than 100 percent per year. These days, it’s the number three selling wine in the United States, ahead of Sauvignon Blanc.
Because it is sweet, bubbly (“frizzante” in wine-speak) and very low in alcohol – most range from about 5.5 percent to 8 percent or so—Moscato is a great wine for brunch, though I would also welcome it as an aperitif or serve it with just about any dessert, except chocolate. I found it especially nice with a vanilla cake layered with raspberry preserves and lemon curd from Buttermilk Baking Co. in Newburyport.
Some wine watchers have said that Moscato is poised to get bigger than Pinot Grigio. While Andrea DiFiore, wine manager/store manager at Andover Liquors, doesn’t see Moscato overtaking Pinot Grigio anytime soon, she has been steadily increasing her stock of the fruity pleaser over the past several years.
With such a sea of Moscatos washing up in wine shops, how do you identify the ones worth drinking? One great indicator is the origin. While Moscato—from the Muscat grape—is being made all over the world, the Piedmont region of Italy is the only place that crafts Moscato d’Asti, from a small region in the northern section. The wine is a subject to Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita, or DOCG labeling, meaning that the Italian government holds it to strict quality standards—it’s even subject to a tasting panel before it can be bottled.
Here are five Moscatos d’Asti to try. All are available at Andover Liquors.
La Spinetta Biancospino 2013
Like a walk in an orchard in spring, with subtle sweetness, refreshing acid, and honeysuckle notes. Try it with prosciutto and melon. (5.5 percent, $19.99)
Bera 2012
Picture honeybees buzzing around this effortless wine with tropical notes. Terrific with Wolf Meadow Farm Truffle Caciocavallo cheese. (5%, $19.99)
Vignaioli di S. Stefano
Classic Moscato nose of peach and flowers, with a long finish that builds for many delightful seconds. Elegant with notes of grapefruit and less sweet. (5.5%, $22.99)
Pio Cesare 2012
Unexpected green grassy notes, reminiscent of key lime pie, sets this one apart. Refreshing to sip on the porch on a warm day. (5%, $21.99)
Centorri
While not a DOCG, this charmer is a bargain, showing classic peach and honey notes. Very drinkable, with a shorter finish, it’s fun, fresh, and fruity. (6.5%, $12.99)