The rain that blanketed the North Shore last Saturday night turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The damp weather forced what was supposed to have been one of Appleton Cooks! field dinners into their late 19th-century carriage barn where guests’ spirits were immediately made bright by the warm glow of strung lights and mason jars filled with flickering candles.
Expertly arranged cheese, fruit, and jam spreads made for a painterly picture inside the tack room, where dark leather saddles evoked equestrian adoration from cheese nibblers. Tables were set with tender loving care. Sprigs of thyme peeped from rolled napkins; burlap runners kept step with the theme; and the sweet cedar smell of the barn made horse lovers’ hearts skip a short beat.
The tremendously talented Carolyn Grieco shuffled plates to and fro, all the while smiling and chatting amiably with staff and guests alike—always the consummate professional. On her menu: Heirloom Tomato Salad with Fennel Fritters—the recipe for which she readily shared (and made sound so very doable); Heritage Roasted Pork (from Vermont’s Snug Valley Farm) with Tart Apples and Pickled Beetroot Relish (eating an entire jar of the latter did not seem unreasonable); Earth Oven Field Roast; Creamy Polenta with Fried Sage and Caerphilly; and last, but hardly least, Grieco’s Old-fashioned Spiced Cider Cake with Brandied Pears and Farmstead Cream—utter bliss.
Ipswich Ale brews, carefully selected wines, and the Farmers Folly signature cocktail, made with Privateer rum, were served from a station sandwiched between stalls and opened to the field—a pleasant perch for quenching one’s thirst!
There is something so uniquely special about the turning of New England’s seasons. It could be argued that the onset of autumn is most special of all. That certainly felt the case as guests helped themselves to heaping plates full of “transitional” foods harvested from Appleton’s own fields. As late summer gives way and warm days start to wane, tomato plants slow production, tender greens begin to tire, and root crops prepare to pop free from the earth. The succulent and the hearty comingle for a few good meals before the air remains permanently crisp and we start craving soups over salads.
Chef Grieco and all the folks behind Appleton Cooks! understand exactly how to celebrate the bounty that befalls us at this very particular time of year. www.thetrustees.org