It’s just after 6:15 on a brisk spring morning when I pile into a luxury Suburban van with a to-go cup of strong, steamy Earl Gray tea for a signature wildlife tour at Amangani in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Our safari guide, Jared Paul, has lived here for years and has led countless tours. He knows just about every inch of the area and is enthusiastically educating our small group on the “Big 5” in these parts: elk, bison, moose, gray wolf, and grizzly bear.
It’s not my first wildlife tour in Grand Teton National Park, but it is my first bear-seeking expedition. Truth be told, I stayed up almost all night at my computer, pouring myself into whatever information I could find on the famous bear that is the state’s celebrity: Grizzly 399. Next thing I know, I’m officially obsessed. Born in 1996, she’s become the most famous bear in the world for being the oldest bear to reproduce (her offspring include 18-year-old Grizzly 610, 22 cubs, and numerous grand cubs, and great-grand cubs. She has her own Instagram page and a dedicated fan following including world-renowned photographers.
Jared tells us about the geology, native plants, history, and local wildlife along various scenic points including Willow Flats, the Snake River Overlook, and Oxbow Bend with views of Mount Maron. Later, joined by numerous other vehicles and safari vans (aptly named a “bear jam”), we stage ourselves on the outskirts of Pilgrim Creek, a beloved area where 399 has been known to roam, in hopes of this being the day we get to see her.
While the crowds continue to build in the prime viewing spot, we venture to other areas of the park to see through binoculars a myriad of wildlife including bald eagles, mule deer, and elk. Before I know it, the hours have ticked by, and it’s time to call it a day. Though I wish I had gotten a glimpse of Grizzly 399, I’ll be checking her social media constantly.
As we head for lunch at the property, one that’s been on my bucket list for years, I’m entranced by the overwhelming beauty of the wood, glass, and stone-lined oasis teeming with luxury and poised at 7,000 feet atop the East Gros Venture Butte. The 40-room resort—opened in 1998 and designed by architect Ed Tuttle with Pacific Redwood and Oklahoma sandstone—is lined with photographs from lauded local photographer David Brookover and features three freestanding homes with four en suite bedrooms; an outdoor heated infinity swimming pool and whirlpool; a full-service spa with four treatment rooms; a drool-worthy boutique; fitness center; and a ski lounge. Guest rooms are appointed with mountain modern touches such as woven chairs; fireplaces; heated bathroom floors; and mini-fridges with complimentary beverages and local gourmet snacks, my favorite being the Wild West animal graham crackers from nearby Persephone’s Bakery.
Over lunch at The Grill, the on-site restaurant with sweeping mountain views, I contemplate how to spend the rest of my quick, three-day trip, which admittedly is not long enough. Nothing is off the table here, whether it’s a hot-air-balloon ride, fly fishing, and mountain biking in spring, or skiing, snowshoeing, ice skating, ice fishing, and dog sled tours in the winter.
After lunch, I opt for a deep tissue massage at the spa, followed by a trip into town replete with a guided tour of the National Museum of Wildlife Art. In the morning, I’ll head to the nearby stables for a horseback riding excursion and later embark on a scenic float down the Snake River before I depart.
The next day, I wake at dawn, grab a blanket, and head to my outdoor patio to catch sunrise. I look up to my right, and a bald eagle is soaring overhead like a paraglider gracefully suspended in midair. I flash back to the wildlife tour, and the wonders of this majestic place. I can’t fathom a more perfect ending to a magical trip, and I’m counting down the days until I return.