Kristin Jenkins had a dream of opening a restaurant one day. She grew up around the business and always loved being behind the scenes. Her grandfather was in the wholesale restaurant industry, and often she would travel with him to visit his customers. She loved seeing how the kitchens operated. After her two children had grown, she decided it was time to go after her passion.
“I ran my late husband’s antiques business, Leonard’s, in Seekonk, Massachusetts, after he passed away,” says Jenkins. “I also have a design background and wanted to open a restaurant that reflected my design sensibilities and love of restaurants and classic American dishes.” Jenkins says she is a self-proclaimed steak-and-potatoes girl.
In 2020, she was on an afternoon stroll thought the streets of Beacon Hill and came upon a for sale sign in the window of a shuttered restaurant on Mount Vernon Street. She made the leap of faith and called on the property that day. A year later. Jenkins opened 1928 Beacon Hill—the hippest and most welcoming place on the hill—complete with elevated classic comfort food and outstanding cocktails.
I visited 1928 (named for the year Kristen’s grandfather was born) several times over the course of last year for a quick burger while visiting my sister Patty at Mass General when she was undergoing inpatient cancer treatments. Stepping through the doors of 1928 Beacon Hill felt like returning to a haven after being in the sterile environment—a little frightening—on Lunder Building’s neuro oncology ward.
I would grab a seat at the always bustling bar and order the 1928 cocktail and burger and try to maintain hopeful thoughts that one day my sister Patty would join me at my new favorite spot. I was happy to be invited back to the restaurant by Jenkins this September. Although my sister did not survive, I took her with me in spirit that evening.
This time, instead of a hurried burger at the bar, I sat with a friend in the intimate dining room, a series of inviting spaces full of carefully curated and eclectic antiques. Deep-brown leather banquets line the dark walls—the feeling is romantic, cozy, and welcoming. A mix of modern and old, the bar and restaurant feel like an extension of home, which was Kristin’s goal. She gets guests visiting from Europe, and she wanted to give it a European flair as well. This is decidedly my favorite spot in Boston for dinner.
Kristin describes the food as elevated home cooking. (I can assure you it is so much more.) The menu developed by Jenkins and head chef Victor Valencia (formerly of Grill 23) includes classic throwbacks like Deviled Eggs, New England Clam Chowder, and even a Waldorf Salad. I started the evening with the bluefin tuna with pickled jicama slaw, wasabi aioli, and black lava salt. Seared ever so slightly on the outside, the tuna was sashimi on the inside—and melted in the mouth. The Jumbo Lump Crab Cake accompanied by a roasted red pepper emulsion was divine. The roasted red pepper added just the right amount of kick to the all-meat cake encrusted with Panko breadcrumbs.
We then moved on to our main dishes. I opted for the Filet Mignon with garlic mashed potatoes, roasted asparagus, and herb butter. I, like Kristin, am a steak and potatoes gal, and this steak cooked medium rare is tender, savory, and delicious. The herb butter is the perfect accompaniment. My friend ordered the Halibut Picatta, which was served on a square of potato gratin with Swiss chard and roasted artichokes on the side. Another winning dish. We literally clean our plates of this elevated comfort food and move on to dessert.
Instead of going for a traditional meal-ender, we wrap up the evening with cocktails: the 1928, which is Tito’s elderflower liqueur, raspberry, and lemon—just the right touch of sweet and sour—and an espresso martini, with El Tesoro private barrel tequila, espresso, and vanilla. On the menu it says, “Trust us” and I know why. The drinks are sophisticated without being intimidating. Bar manager Jordan McCusker explains all the simple syrups and juices are house made. “We want to offer a place where guests feel welcome can get a great drink and dinner and meet old friends and make new,” McCusker says.
The restaurant hits all these high notes. I can’t wait to return.