“If you hold the knife with your thumb and your index finger, then even if you jab yourself, you’ll never cut too deep.” That may sound like some sort of Self Defense 101 course, but in reality, it couldn’t be a more peaceful exchange. It’s happening in the gleaming kitchen belonging to Chris Himmel and his family—the folks who brought Greater Boston such forward-thinking, institutional restaurants as Grill 23, Post 390, and The Harvest—and it’s taking place between two of his dear friends. It also has absolutely nothing to do with stabbing anyone. They’re talking oysters.
And not just any oysters. They’re Great Island Oysters brought by Himmel’s dear friends Mike Geraty, owner of Wulf’s Fish Market in Brookline, and Matt Henderson, who owns Dayboat Fresh Seafood. Both have come tonight with their better halves—Jessica Geraty and Emily Benedict, respectively—and several other friends to work together in whipping up (and devouring) an interactive, all-hands-on-deck dinner party, wherein they all do as much cooking and bantering as eating.
Himmel, in a navy-and-white-striped apron, darts from the kitchen’s huge stone island to the hallway bar to shake up Sazerac cocktails. He’s a blur of movement and laughter. Outside, Marblehead Harbor makes for a sprawling view. This is where he grew up, where he spends his summer days off, and where he loves to entertain most. That much is obvious; even as he cooks with the speed of an executive chef, he tells stories about old friends and cracks jokes.
“I washed my hands, I swear to God,” he announces, digging them into an enormous bowl of sliced kale with cashews. “Sure you did,” chides one guest, between bites of pheasant-apricot pa?te? from the epic charcuterie board. As Geraty thinly slices some of the plumpest, most comely day-boat scallops imaginable (Henderson sells them to such high-caliber New York City restaurants as Per Se, Jean-Georges, and Daniel), Himmel is searing up perfectly cut, gorgeously marbled A5 Kagoshima Japanese Wagyu beef, an unparalleled new creation from another close friend, Eric Brandt of Brandt Natural Beef.
“This is the next level of Wagyu,” Himmel explains. “It’s premiering at Grill 23 this week. Get ready to start seeing it on the best menus all over.” He’s not exaggerating: The stuff has the velvety texture and richness of pork belly, but a deep and bright flavor that could only be produced by the healthiest of cows. “Eric Brandt and I joke that we need to start a cow spa,” laughs Himmel.
Tonight, they’ll plate it with the aforementioned kale salad and roasted potatoes. But before that, the group decides to take a quick detour. Geraty, having finished prepping the day-boat scallops (which were caught in Chatham yesterday and were still in the shells as of last night), dresses them with a dash of grapefruit, olive oil, Marblehead sea salt, and fennel fronds, and then turns his carving skills on the beef. He’s cutting it almost carpaccio-thin and serving it raw on crusty toast slices. These are the kinds of ingredients that Himmel is obsessed with discovering or “hypersourcing,” as he calls it, and spotlighting at all three of his restaurants. He personally and frequently visits the purveyors who carry specialty items, learns everything about their methods, and, more often than not, becomes good friends with them.
That’s why tonight’s charcuterie board is loaded up with cured meats from his pals Herb and Kathy Eckhouse of La Quercia. A dream team of his favorite local cheeses and a homemade tomato jam— from a Post 390 chef’s mother—also make the spread. It’s why the gigantic slices of creamy coconut layer cake made by Grill 23’s pastry chef, Molly Hanson, will be served with a mango, passion fruit, basil, and ginger sorbet that was conceived by Himmel and Post 390’s pastry chef, Craig Williams.
Finally, it’s time to sit down to the table, among fragrant bouquets of lilies—arranged by Beverly florist and family friend Doris Leonhard— and revel in the results of everyone’s hard work. (Not that they haven’t been eating while cooking all along!) “That’s the best part of everyone having a part in the meal,” observes Himmel. “Making everything together becomes a big part of the fun, and it makes sitting together that much better.”