Ten of the North Shore’s hottest chefs reveal where they love to eat when it’s time to get out of the kitchen, and which particular dishes whet their expert appetites. By Anna + David Kasabian
Fresh Oysters
Hale Street Tavern, Beverly Farms. favorite of: Sam Hunt, chef, 15 walnut, Hamilton.
Like most busy chefs, Hunt rarely has time to eat out. But when he does, he heads to the Hale Street Tavern & Oyster Bar in Beverly Farms. “The comfortable, laid-back atmosphere makes it easy to unwind after a long service,” Hunt says. “I usually dive into a dozen local oysters, then move on to the sushi Caterpillar roll and wash it down with a 90 Minute IPA.”
We asked Hale Street Tavern chef Mike O’Brien about those oysters that Hunt can’t seem to get enough of, and he explained that they’re fresh from Gloucester’s own Steve Connolly Seafood. That Caterpillar roll he loves is the creation of their sushi chef and, yes, it actually looks like a caterpillar-though no caterpillars are used in its creation. It’s a combination of broiled freshwater eel and cucumber topped with avocado, accompanied by cucumber yuzu sauce and Champagne passion fruit mignonette, or house-made cocktail sauce, ranging from normal heat to the “atomic” version. Hunt’s 90 Minute IPA, from cult micro-brewer Dogfish Head, is “a strong, hoppy beer that has a sweet finish. It’s one of our most popular beers on tap,” O’Brien says.
Clam Chowder
J.T. Farnham’s, essex. ?favorite of: Peter Capalbo, chef, tryst, Beverly.
Capalbo says that whenever he gets the craving, you’ll find him at J.T. Farnham’s in Essex with his head bent over a nice big steaming bowl of clam chowder. “It’s creamy and not thick, and you can taste the clams,” he says.
We caught up with Terry Cellucci, who co-owns Farnham’s with her husband, Joe, and asked her about their chowder recipe: “There’s no cornstarch or flour used to thicken it, so it turns out to be thinner but still creamy,” Cellucci says. “We add lots of butter and fresh clams, diced white potato, salt pork, ground onions, and clam stock.” Simple but so good.
Cheesesteak Sub
Super Sub, Beverly. favorite of: Brendon Crocker, ?chef, wild horse cafe, Beverly.
Crocker tells us that “It’s really hard to choose one favorite” when it comes to North Shore restaurants. Crocker will admit that he loves the baked haddock at The Village Restaurant in Essex and the bento box at Kame in Beverly. “The bento box for lunch is outstanding, whatever 
the selection is.”
But when craving and convenience come calling, Crocker opts for the cheesesteak sub at Super Sub, just a few blocks from his own restaurant. Owned by brothers Paul and John Guanci, Super Sub has been a North Shore staple for 40 years. If you live around here, chances are you’ve eaten there. And chances are it was a cheesesteak sub you ate.
Asked how they prepare this classic sandwich, John Guanci tells us it’s all about the freshness of the beef, the soft white bread bun, and that good old Land O’Lakes American cheese that melts all over the layers of shaved beef.
“We use a fresh beef loin tail, but it’s not the cut that makes this delicious-it’s the way we prepare it,” Guanci says. “The beef is sliced raw and is cooked to order, and we use fresh rolls from Piantedosi’s bakery in Malden. They’ve been around since 1916 and make the most consistent product we’ve ever seen.”
Fried Clams
Clam Box, Ipswich. ?favorite of: Scott Pelletier, chef, evenfall, Haverhill.
Pelletier tells us, “Whenever we drive by the Clam Box [in Ipswich], I have to stop in for some whole-bellied fried clams. My wife Hillary, our four-year-old son, Grant, and I sit and eat them with plenty of tartar sauce and iced tea. It works well because Grant loves the bellies and Hillary likes the necks. I don’t share. Now if only they would serve beer!
“The clams are always very fresh,” Pelletier continues. “I also like that they are constantly filtering and changing their fry oil, so it’s never heavy or laden with grease. But most important for me is the fact that they don’t overcook their clams. I like them crisp, but not over-fried, or they start to expel too much of their inherent juices.”
To listen to Clam Box owner Marina “Chickie” Aggelakis talk, you’d think she ran a Michelin three-star restaurant. “I am extremely fussy about my fish,” Aggelakis says. “My purveyors know that, and they know what I like. I’m here when the food deliveries are made and I inspect everything. I’m here from early morning to closing every day.” And it shows.
Ribeye
Pellana Steakhouse, Peabody. favorite of: Antonio ?Bettencourt, chef and owner, Sixty2 on wharf, Salem.
Bettencourt says his favorite restaurant on the North Shore is Pellana Steakhouse. “My wife and I went there once two years ago, while our restaurant was under construction, and we sat at the bar. Since then, we have continued to go at least once a month, and sometimes more often.
“I always get the ribeye, prepared medium-rare,” Bettencourt says. “This is a massive piece of meat. It’s always perfectly seasoned and it has never, in two years, been anything but a perfect medium-rare. They cook it using what I call the French method: it is first seared on the stovetop, creating a beautiful caramelized crust, and is then finished in the oven until it reaches the perfect doneness. I love this method because the caramelizing covers the entire surface of the meat.
“Grilling is too harsh, with the acrid flavor of the fire actually burning the steak, and ?the caramelizing is not nearly as complete,” Bettencourt says. “Finishing the steak in the oven then allows the gentle heat of the oven to bring it up to the desired temperature while keeping the meat moist and allowing it to retain all ?of its flavor.
“The cut is, of course, a ribeye, which is heavily marbled and, in my opinion, the only steak worth eating,” Bettencourt says. “The seasoning is simply salt and pepper and the steak is served as is-no superfluous garnishes or distractions.
“I will usually spritz a bit of lemon on the steak, as I like the acid to amplify the flavor of the meat. The meat is of fantastic quality and is deservedly the star. Meat, salt, and fire equals perfection. Everything is so simple and clean, even pure,” Bettencourt says.
Chef Nick Laganas at Pellana concurs with Bettencourt’s analysis. “We pan sear all of our steaks on one side and then finish them in the oven on the other side. When we do this, the juices seep into that seared side to create a beautiful flavor. This is a 24-ounce steak served with bearnaise, demi-glace, or steak sauce, whatever you want, and it’s from Texas.”
Al Pastor Burritos & ? Quesadillas
Tacos Lupita, lynn. favorite of: Matt O’neill, executive chef, the blue ox, Lynn.
O’Neill confesses, “My favorite is Tacos Lupita located just around the corner from The Blue Ox. It’s basically a hole in the wall-fewer than 10 tables, a lunch and dinner counter-service place that bangs out fantastic Mexican and Salvadorian food all day long.
“Tacos Lupita is the perfect place to load up on food and think about my crazy day, just before heading off to work. I eat there more than I should, and sometimes on the sneak.
“My favorite menu items are the al pastor burritos and quesadillas. Al pastor is the reddish-colored seasoned pork that is roasted on a spit and topped with a pineapple. The pork is always paired with super-fresh tomatoes, lettuce, onion, sour cream, and cheese, served piping hot with great salsa verde and a spicy red sauce. Oh, and you have to have a pork-and-cheese pupusa as a side and order up a Horchata to wash it all down. It is simply delicious and super satisfying.”
O’Neill says there are many more reasons for which he loves Tacos Lupita. “First of all, the concept is so simple and the food so affordable and tasty that you leave the place with a smile on your face-and money left in your wallet.
“They stick to their mission every day by using fresh ingredients and preparing delicious food in a timely fashion. The food is always consistent, and I am a freak about consistency. This is my number one priority at The Ox-consistent food and service. They do this really well. The place is always packed, which is a great sign!”
We asked Tacos Lupita owner Francesca Caverera and her son Erasmo just how they explain the qualities of the pork dishes O’Neill adores. Both credit the freshness of the pork and the family recipe that’s been passed down a few generations. Erasmo did let one flavor secret slip-slow roasting the pork with a pineapple and onion so the contrasting juices meld together for a complex burst of flavor.
Spicy Scallop Tartare
Gourmet Garden, Swampscott. favorite of: John Ingalls, chef and owner, palmers, Andover.
Ingalls is unequivocal in his choice of North Shore restaurants: his favorite is the Asian-themed Gourmet Garden in Swampscott.
Ingalls favors the spicy scallop tartare from the restaurant’s sushi bar. “[It’s] tough to choose just one [favorite dish], as their sushi 
is the best around and the presentation is fantastic!” he says.
“I feel fortunate that this restaurant is just down the street from my house and that on my nights off I can get a healthy meal here that is consistently fresh and delicious. The service is very welcoming, friendly, and efficient. I have been going there since they opened, and I’ve never been disappointed.”
Gourmet Garden’s Lin Choi shared with us that the spicy scallop tartare has become so popular that it now has its own fan club. The dish is made with barely grilled scallops that are cut into bite-size chunks and are then mixed with a spicy mayonnaise. The scallops are layered with fresh seafood and seaweed salads.
Whole Lobster
Brown’s Lobster Pound, ?Seabrook, nh. favorite of: Marvin Posada, chef, ?landana, Burlington.
Posada’s pick is Brown’s Lobster Pound, the venerable fish and lobster shack at Hampton Beach in Seabrook, NH. “Lobster-that’s my favorite!” Posada says. “Brown’s big thing is live lobsters. You choose the one you want from the tank. I usually get a whole one 
served with drawn butter.”
Around since 1950, Brown’s must be doing something right. We spoke to the owner’s son, Robert, who began working at Brown’s 37 years ago, at the tender age of 13.
Brown says guests buy their lobsters by weight. “Just point to the one you want-that can be anything from a one-pounder on up to 12 pounds-and we’ll cook it up for you.”
The secret to the great flavor, says Brown, is cooking the lobsters in sea water, adding that the crustaceans are completely submerged and boiled. “If you steam them, the pot can get dry. That can draw liquid and flavor out of the lobsters by the time you add water to the pot.”
Frittata
Tryst, Beverly. favorite of: Matt Sanidas, chef and owner, ?9 elm, Danvers.
“In general, I try to frequent chef-owned restaurants,” Sanidas says. “My favorite is Peter Capalbo’s Tryst i
n Beverly. I love anything they make for Sunday breakfast, especially the frittata.”
What makes the breakfast dish so special? Chef Capalbo will tell you “it’s the farm-fresh eggs, the house-made chorizo sausage-not many places make their own sausage-plus roasted peppers, melted onions, fresh cilantro, and cheddar cheese. We serve it with fresh salsa, fresh fruit, and potato gaufrettes.” Capalbo says Tryst has been serving this top-selling dish for five years.
Grilled Duck Breast
Backstage Bistro, Beverly. favorite of: Andy Landry, chef, latitude 43, Gloucester.
Landry adores the grilled duck breast at the North Shore Music Theatre’s Backstage Bistro in Beverly, which is served with a salad of cherries, almonds, arugula, and truffle vinaigrette
Landry is amazed by how smoothly the ingredients in his favorite dish go together. “It’s really not fancy,” he says. “In fact, it’s pretty straight-ahead. But it’s so well-balanced-the sweet, the sour, the salt, the fat. And the ingredients complement each other perfectly. I don’t like dishes in which ingredients just don’t go together, like mashed potatoes with wasabi. They don’t belong in the same dish. These ingredients definitely do.”
Backstage Bistro chef Derrick Clough cooked in ?California for several years before moving to the North Shore. Self taught, he’s been ?in the kitchen since he was ?13. Reflecting a true West ?Coast food ethos, Clough says it’s all about keeping things simple and allowing the natu-ral goodness of the ingredients ?to take center stage.