When chef Matthew Morello and his wife, Alison Sudalter-Morello, go out to dinner, they always gravitate toward oyster bars, enjoying the complexity of different shellfish and the casual approach to fine dining. So it seemed only natural that when contemplating a new concept for their five-year-old Andover restaurant, Brasserie 28, oysters were top of mind.
Literally overnight, the former French bistro transformed into Elm Square Oyster Co. Over a span of 30 hours, the walls were painted in soothing shades of periwinkle blue, reminiscent of the sea, and the counter at the open kitchen was transformed into a sleek stainless steel shucking station.
And it’s gotten plenty of use—within six weeks of opening, Elm Square had already served more than 70,000 oysters on the half shell. It is clear that Morello and his staff have an abiding love for these briny tidbits—the raw bar menu lavishes loving descriptions on each oyster, gilding the basics, like where they are from, with size, flavor, and even how it was cultivated and harvested. Take, for example, the luscious Fat Dog—the menu notes its deep cup and points to the fact that it is deep-water cultured. Such descriptions make it easy for a first-time oyster taster to take the plunge while a focus on small producers means expert slurpers will find something exciting to try.
Morello often takes quick road trips to see his supplier, Taylor Lobster Company, in Kittery, Maine, and to scoop up shellfish on the same day they are harvested—a rare treat, given most oysters are usually out of the water for days before being served. Taylor is popular with high-end restaurants, and ships to top establishments in New York and beyond.
Executive chef Michael Sherman, who has worked with Morello for eight years, has embraced the new concept without compromising his flair for the judicious use of high-tech kitchen techniques. The mix of small plates and entrée portions takes familiar items, like lobster and steak, and brings them in a new direction, with subtle nods to more challenging cuisine. The menu, formerly focused on French bistro favorites like foie gras and charcuterie, now offers a modern spin on classic New England fare, from Maine lobster to local pork.
The cold lobster appetizer, for example, is deceptively simple, served with potato, corn, celery, and saffron. Similarly, the Bavette steak is a flavorful cut of meat, crispy seared and served with oyster mushrooms and gem lettuce—basic but deeply flavored.
It’s on the five-course chef’s tasting menu, a terrific balance of lighter bites with more substantial tastes, where the dance between humble and haute really shines. On a recent visit, a simple dish of grilled zucchini proved a fascinating contrast of flavors and textures, with a dusting of caramelized yogurt powder reminiscent of brown butter, dots of a sweet yogurt gel, and a topping of crunchy fried quinoa bits. The result was harmonious, delicious, and inviting. A dish called Rice Cracker featured smoked salmon, trout roe, and fennel. It was crispy, creamy, crunchy, and salty—in a word, divine.
As the seasons change, Morello expects to feature some game dishes, and perhaps bring back foie gras and charcuterie—two very popular items from the old menu, while keeping the emphasis on regional favorites.
Local is also the focus of the drink menu, which highlights American craft spirits, like the award-winning V-1 Vodka from Western Massachusetts and a 28-bottle selection of American bourbons. One of the most popular drinks at the busy bar is the St. Paul, named for Paul Kozub, the maker of V-1 Vodka; it combines his grapefruit vodka with elderflower liquor, tonic water, and a splash of fresh grapefruit juice. Another favorite is the refreshing Cucumber Gimlet, made with Bully Boy gin from Boston, cucumber, lime, and prosecco. The wine list focuses almost exclusively on American makers, with a few international favorites held over from the Brasserie 28 days.
Desserts change frequently, but the restaurant is still making ice cream in-house—the bourbon vanilla is rich, flavorful, and a very grown-up way to end a meal. For something more substantial—a gently poached ripe peach with raspberries and a tart lemon cake can’t be beat.